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Old 22-10-2018, 06:08 PM   #61
Dopeshow
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After what seems like an age, I finally got the underside fully repaired and prepped for primer. Also got the fuel lines and brake pipe routed used cupro nickel for these, spent ages looking for different solutions but ended up opting for P clips in the end as it is never going to be a show car.



Gave it 2 coats of joutan 87, it was a bit cold and I put in on a bit thick, but it will be ok. Going to leave it a few days then will give it 2 coats of Raptor to cover my dodgy welding :




Last edited by Dopeshow; 22-10-2018 at 06:18 PM.
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Old 26-10-2018, 10:25 AM   #62
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Looking good buddy!
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Old 13-11-2018, 07:19 PM   #63
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In the mean time I decided to refurbish the rear subframe, all was shotblasted and given a coat of etch primer. For the finish coat I used a company called Buzzweld, the guys down there were great and gave me some good adivce. I went for a chassis paint which contained glass flake to make it hard as nails, also the paint is acts as a corrosion inhibitor so we will see how it performs, I went for a satin finsh, gave the frame 3 coats and really happy with the results.





Next step was the raptor coating, the expoy primer was roughed up before the raptor was applied, I dusted a light first coat then layed down a thick second coat using a bog standard underbody coating gun, not 100% happy with the finish but i'm not taking it off and starting again. Once dry the fuel and brake line were fitted.






Last edited by Dopeshow; 13-11-2018 at 07:29 PM.
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Old 13-11-2018, 08:02 PM   #64
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So my wife had to work the weekend which meant a whole two days on the Mini.

First job was to mount the rear subframe, I used poly bushes and billet subframe mounts. Fuel pies were tight but I have some clearance at least.



The painful task over rolling her over without damaging the underside can next, got a few pairs of hands so it was pretty easy in the end.

Because i am a novice I just took my time and installed the radius arms, shocks, springs ect, all the brake pipes were connected up.





Not happy with the way some of the bolts tightened when I installed the adjustable brackets, so I am going to have to figure a way of getting to these to fix them. I have a feeling I am going to have to drill some holes in the sub frame to get to the welded nuts on the inside. Waiting on new castle nuts for the wheel bearings.

Last edited by Dopeshow; 14-11-2018 at 11:17 AM.
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Old 20-11-2018, 11:39 AM   #65
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Looking good buddy, the raptor stuff looks like it went on great. I went with Upol Gravitex on the underside of my shell and to be honest the finish isn't that great, needs touching up in places.
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Old 21-11-2018, 06:34 AM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dopeshow View Post
Not happy with the way some of the bolts tightened when I installed the adjustable brackets, so I am going to have to figure a way of getting to these to fix them. I have a feeling I am going to have to drill some holes in the sub frame to get to the welded nuts on the inside. Waiting on new castle nuts for the wheel bearings.
I've noticed that same thing, especially on that bottom inner bolt while I was installing KAD rear adjustable brackets...
Three out of four bolts went in with no probs but that fourth is 4-5mm out.
As I was dealing with KAD my suspicion went into subframe and I was right!
The subframe I was installing the brackets on was new aftermarket one and when I tried to install them on genuine subframe, brackets went right on and holes were spot on!
Great buld BTW! Like the pics
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Old 26-11-2018, 09:14 AM   #67
Dopeshow
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Looking good buddy, the raptor stuff looks like it went on great. I went with Upol Gravitex on the underside of my shell and to be honest the finish isn't that great, needs touching up in places.
Yeah, really happy with it to be honest. Good stuff, I am going to use it in the engine bay but put it through a normal gun for a smooth finish.
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Old 05-02-2019, 10:20 AM   #68
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How are you getting on with this dude?
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Old 11-02-2019, 11:56 AM   #69
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Apologies for the lack of updates, I have been really busy at work and the temperatures have been baltic in my garage, so its done nothing for my motivation. One of my firends passed away a few weeks ago, he was a great engineer and built some amazing cars, he was into his Evo's but he was really interested in the Mini project so in memory to him I have given myself a serious kick up the back side and will dedicate my build to him.

So with the back end mechanically built and wheels on I started prepping the engine bay. First was the firewall mods, I really did not want to alter the manifold so out came the angle grinder, engine was in and out more times that i would have liked but I got there eventually. I used 2mm plate to put strength back into the firewall. I will make up a removable plate at a later date to close it all off.



With this done, I dry built up the frame, the radius arms and hubs were shotblasted and painted in the same satin chassie paint I did the rear subframe in, really happy with the results though. I fitted the frame onto the shell really easily and when about fitting the engine. I was really concerned about this but it took me all of 15minutes and it was in, spent an hour staring at it wondering if I had done something wrong but all thre mounts line up perfect and thanks to grinding back the steerling rack I think the engine should be far enough back as the is no more adjustment on the mounts left.



I was having some right trouble finding the correct engine to cablin loom with people wanting crazy money so after a lot of head scratching I chopped off the engine plugs and brought the loom into the cab. I had some ECU plugs with pig tails on so I have soldered the engine loom direct to these. My plan is to get it running first and then just make a brand new loom up myself. I used a bulkhead rubber off a MK2 Escort. Just got to tidy up a few wires then I will rebind it once happy.







The heater bulk head fitting looks way out on the photo but it is staight in the flesh, must of been the way i took the picture (honest governor)

So I have really hit the bank account this week and ordered a carbon fibre bootlid, rear valance. I had no idea what to do with the front end as I want the classic look and extended was out of the question, so I have bit the bullet and ordered a 2 piece standard front end, I know this is going to cause me some serious pain, but in for a penny in for a pound, so any advice on how the hell I get this to work is greatly appricated. I Have brought a Japspeed 4-2-1 manifold which will be getting modified this week, going to shorteren the runners so I can get it almost touching the engine for clearance, also going to change the collector for a 2.5", once happy with fitment this will be ceramic coated. For the Rad I have purchased a alloy 2 row civic half rad, it was only 40 so if I cant get it to fit I can sell it to make my money back and look at alternaitve options, prepared to go down the custom route if possible.

I purchased so refurbished door hinges for 60 and they are great, so I hung the doors to see what fitment is like, absolute nightmare as whoever did the repairs on the car before me had not lined anything up. The lip that the A panel attaches to sat 10mm proud from the door on both sides and I did not have a clue what to do. In the end i decided to cut the lip off remove 10mm and weld it back on, took me ages to get it right, but really happy with the results.


Last edited by Dopeshow; 11-02-2019 at 12:53 PM.
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Old 12-02-2019, 09:53 AM   #70
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Sorry to hear about your friend. Nice to see the mini coming along. I know what you mean about the wiring. Honda prices are nuts as so many people are after them and paying silly money!
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Old Today, 10:26 AM   #71
Dopeshow
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Quote:
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Sorry to hear about your friend. Nice to see the mini coming along. I know what you mean about the wiring. Honda prices are nuts as so many people are after them and paying silly money!
Thanks Monkey, yes perhaps something I should have researched before I chose my engine, but I wanted VTEC from the start and i'm good with wiring so not a massvie issue.
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