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Old 15-03-2018, 08:28 AM   #391
niannorth
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Originally Posted by richie08 View Post
Check out gazwads kit... as fitted to his vvc mini

http://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?t=37294

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Looks good, it might well be a job for the summer as there will be a fair amount of shuffling around needed to get that to fit. But certainly worth considering. Cheers.
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Old 15-03-2018, 08:42 AM   #392
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Looks good, it might well be a job for the summer as there will be a fair amount of shuffling around needed to get that to fit. But certainly worth considering. Cheers.
Allspeed do a kit (well they used to and I presume they still do) which mounts the servo a little further to the centre so it means you keep the wiper motor in place. I believe Gaz built his kit to fit around the standard 160 Airbox but it you are not using one then you can probably juggle a cone filter to fit with it
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Old 15-03-2018, 09:37 AM   #393
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I made one of the servo relocation bars that Gaz has made with his measurments he sent me. It fit very well as does the job it's ment to do, but I struggled to fit things in that I wanted to so reverted too a no-servo system, you just need to remember to press the pedal a little harder after getting out of a modern day car with all the creature comforts
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Old 15-03-2018, 11:47 AM   #394
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I put 10" rotors from 1985 Honda Accord and 4 pot Wilwood calipers with SS braided hoses on mine, and it is almost like having boosted brakes. Just touch the pedal and you are stopping - harder you push, quicker you stop. very progressive and pleasant to drive.
Had to machine my 13 x 7 Ultralites just a bit on the inside for caliper clearance, just because I did not want spacers.

FWIW
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Old 15-03-2018, 03:30 PM   #395
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Ian, I wish you lived nearer to me as I would show you that a servo is not needed by letting you drive Phoenix.

The MG F vented brakes are more than up to stopping a Mini. The MG F is twice the weight.

That said, first off fit Mintex normal road pads front and shoes rear.

If still not adequate, fit braided brake hoses. This reduces the travel in the pedal.

Then Gaz also shortened the bar (part of the pedal) connecting the pedal to master cylinder push rod by 5mm. This increases the leverage, making the pedal easier to press. It does increase the travel though so braided hoses are a must before doing this.

I am sure if you did all this the brakes will be more than adequate.
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Old 15-03-2018, 03:55 PM   #396
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Ian, I wish you lived nearer to me as I would show you that a servo is not needed by letting you drive Phoenix.

The MG F vented brakes are more than up to stopping a Mini. The MG F is twice the weight.

That said, first off fit Mintex normal road pads front and shoes rear.

If still not adequate, fit braided brake hoses. This reduces the travel in the pedal.

Then Gaz also shortened the bar (part of the pedal) connecting the pedal to master cylinder push rod by 5mm. This increases the leverage, making the pedal easier to press. It does increase the travel though so braided hoses are a must before doing this.

I am sure if you did all this the brakes will be more than adequate.
Cheers I might give some of that a try. It's not that the brakes are bad and it might just be a case of me getting more used to them, but none of it will do any harm.

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Old 16-03-2018, 01:50 PM   #397
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I've got a recommendation of a place that can make up the braided pipes I just now need to get the measurements and connector types. If it is of use to anyone; https://furoreproducts.co.uk/custom-...tom-brake-hose
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Old 16-03-2018, 02:32 PM   #398
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I contacted a company on eBay selling braided hoses. I got 2 fronts for an MG F and 2 rears for a classic Mini. Was about 60 and Goodridge hoses too. Was happy at that.
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Old 16-03-2018, 08:39 PM   #399
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I made all my own got everything I needed from a company off the bay of E called Torques, linky; http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Torques-U-K?_rdc=1 probably cost me close to god now's how much to total up, but my brakes have all braided lines which are through the inside of the car, all fittings a -3 stainless. I have also fitted a bias valve to the rear line to reduce the pressure to stop the rear's locking up (they still do under very heavy braking, need to look into this more) it depends of how deep your pockets are and how much you want to spend?
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Old 16-03-2018, 09:25 PM   #400
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There appears to be some debate about home made pipes and the MOT. Theoretically they should be ok but I've read of some stations failing them. The prices for the home brew kits don't look much different from some of the ones you can get made up.



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Old 17-03-2018, 09:45 AM   #401
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Your right about some MOT stations not liking them and if you read the VOSA recomondations/guidlines for brake pipes it says "Compression joints of a type
using separate ferrules are not suitable" What I did with mine is when I made each brake line up I cut 2 piece's of heat shrink to fit over the fitting's on the ends so that when the brakes had been bled and pressure tested I checked all the fittings were dry (which they were ) and heat shrunk them so they look like propper/bought lines. The ststion that I took my car to went through everything! one of the most thorough mots I have seen in a long while. But it all depends on the mot station you take your car to and how well you know the garage/inspector or if you have been using the same garage for years?
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Old 18-03-2018, 12:22 PM   #402
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Back on the road. Couldn't get it on the ramps as I only had 3rd and fourth so jacked it up and tacked the rod. Then got it on the ramps. Had to grind off a fair bit of weld and it was difficult to drill. So welded the join then welded a long nail length ways along the shaft. Not the prettiest job but should be strong. I might make up a new solid rod in the summer. Just warming up now as laying under the car in the snow gets you pretty cold.

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Old 18-03-2018, 12:25 PM   #403
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Glad you got it sorted, upside down welding is a tough gig, not helped by lying in the snow.

Hopefully you can get out and enjoy it again this week

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Old 18-03-2018, 06:01 PM   #404
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It's easy to remove the bar. Just a roll pin at gearbox and one bolt under lever.

That way it's best held in a vice and seam welded.
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Old 27-04-2018, 07:11 AM   #405
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I thought I'd just drop an update on life with the VVC.

So far so good, I have managed not to break anything else since I fixed the gear linkage. It runs fine so far but the temptation when some one is sat on your peach to open up when the traffic clears ahead is still too much to resist.

I had a little bit of a coolant leak the other day but that was just a jubilee clip worked loose on the rubber side of the top hose, so no drama. There is a small oil leak I think from the gearbox, only a couple of drops a night. I'm not worried as I think I'm going to try and change the box for one with a different final drive and possibly a taller fifth gear (Saxo VTR apparently). Don't know when I'm going to get round to that. If you read this Richie, do you know what the final drive is at the minute or can you confirm what the box came out of, cheers.

I'm am much more used to the non servo brakes now but still might change to braided hoses at some point.

With the low gearing it has put getting the sound proofing sorted up the list of jobs to be done. One thing I might end up having to fabricate are the two upper floor panels in the load space, the ones that form the frame for the boot board covering the spare wheel etc, as I can't find those anywhere. Don't know what they are called but look in the rear of another estate and you'll see what I mean.

My better half thinks the roof might be better white so that is a change on the agenda at some point.

Still haven't got round to building the circuit for the speedo but that is on the list.
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