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Old 14-01-2018, 11:01 AM   #91
Yellow
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Take it steady over the hump-back bridges then several on here have contact on full droop (though from memory theirs are brake calliper touching tie bar). I'm thinking about fitting thicker droop stops on the subframe under the top arms to limit the travel- might work on yours?


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Old 14-01-2018, 01:37 PM   #92
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Will give it a road test first. Another possibility is to notch the frame on mine. It’s beefy box we’ve used, so could modify it around the arms if needs be.
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Old 18-01-2018, 06:14 PM   #93
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forgot to take a photo of the protractor i use for camber and castor, the two prongs can slide up and down to meet the balljoint nuts. obviously needs to be used on a flat floor:
IMAG0070 by garrywadey, on Flickr
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Old 18-01-2018, 08:25 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by gazwad View Post
forgot to take a photo of the protractor i use for camber and castor, the two prongs can slide up and down to meet the balljoint nuts. obviously needs to be used on a flat floor:
IMAG0070 by garrywadey, on Flickr

That's neat. Are the readings accurate with the car in the air and the suspension dropped down? It thought the settings should be done with the car at normal ride height? Unless I've misunderstood how it's used?


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Old 19-01-2018, 09:52 AM   #95
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yes it's used on the ground at normal ride height, turn the wheel so you have access and this can be used behind the wheel, it's slightly fiddly but very cheap and pretty accurate (had mine checked on a laser alignment after and everything was spot on)
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Old 20-01-2018, 09:23 AM   #96
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I use one of these which again is surprisingly accurate when it was checked with a laser a few weeks after I set it up.
https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motor...r-camber-gauge


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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Old 01-02-2018, 10:13 AM   #97
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Looks like a clever, yet simple device!

Had a quiet few weeks on the Mini - work and skiing holiday have slowed progress!

Spent an hour or two making a new gear knob a few nights ago though:

Gearknob by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Last edited by ZA-J; 01-02-2018 at 10:13 AM. Reason: typo
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Old 12-02-2018, 06:22 PM   #98
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I'm about to order adjustable camber bottom arms for the van before setting suspension up, but not sure whether to buy rose jointed units or bushed ones? Opinions? Only 10 difference in price from minispares, so my pocket doesn't mind either way.
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Old 12-02-2018, 10:31 PM   #99
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Down to personal preference, for a road car I'd go for normal rubber bushed ones, for more of a track machine rose jointed ones suit. I cant comment as I've got rubber but I've been told rose joints are alot harsher, though if you do go for them get some boots to cover them!
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Old 13-02-2018, 04:44 PM   #100
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Thanks, I’ve already got bushes in my current arms and have a spare set, so will go for bushed ones fow now.
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Old 24-04-2018, 08:26 PM   #101
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I've been very slack in keeping the build thread up to date, so here goes:

Had to have a rad made as the original mini unit sat too high in relation to header tank.

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

My mate printed some new centre caps too:
Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Got MOT and made it to a Wheels Day on good friday, but didn't make it home!
It popped a top hose off and now temperature gauge gets to around 100 degrees and fluctuates approx +/- 10 degrees.

The rad gets hot at the top, but its cold at the bottom despite the rad being unblocked.

I'm now at a loss as to cause! Not sure if theres a massive air block or thermostat not working?
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Old 25-04-2018, 01:49 AM   #102
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Looks good , classic thermostat , I don't know why we use them these days ,
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Old 25-04-2018, 02:26 PM   #103
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When you change the stat drill a couple of little 2mm holes in it to allow some coolant to flow from cold. Prevents thermal shock when it does open and would stop pressure building beforehand.
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Old 26-04-2018, 08:00 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by ZA-J View Post

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr
I don't think this will have caused your issue, but I would personally slide the 90degree rad hose by the vvc belt cover down about 2" if you can? Looks like that sits higher than the elbow going into the rad and could cause an air lock at that point.
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Old 27-04-2018, 03:19 PM   #105
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Thanks chaps.
Replaced the thermostat and drilled an extra 2mm hole in it (it already had one with a glorified split pin in it) and the rad slowly got warmer until running temp achieved. Whole system was more or less the same temp all around, and gauge nice and stable.
Play time!
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