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Old 02-02-2015, 06:35 PM   #16
geachy87
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Originally Posted by Oz View Post
Does it have an IACV ? If so it might be stuck and neeed a clean ?
It does, going to take it off and give it a clean tomorrow, hopefully that cures it. It started up pretty well considering the fuel has been in the tank for 4 1/2 years
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Old 03-02-2015, 01:34 PM   #17
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the ecu needs to re-learn the engine as its been disconnected, I wouldn't worry about it for now. once the engine is in the car you can re-set the throttle position sensor by turning the ignition on (but don't start) and pressing the throttle all the way down 5-7 times, then switch off, leave of 5 mins and start it up. that should sort it out
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:54 PM   #18
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Cheers gazwad, hopefully that's it, As you say I'll not worry about it till the engines in the car for the last time
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Old 13-05-2016, 12:24 PM   #19
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Quick catch up of all the posts that were lost, more pictures than words..
I've got my rollcage fitted, safety devices 6 point with rear diagonal


Started trying to find a decent position for my new seat


Got an abs clubman st front and started trimming it to fit, still not totally finished this yet




Fitted a radiator and plumbed it all in, the heater matrix is burst so it's bypassed for now till I got a new one


And this is how it sits at the moment


Currently plumbing in the brakes and trying to find decent miglia arches for it, I've had it driving round the yard last week but only have a handbrake at the moment, it's given me more motivation to get it finished though!

Cheers,
Iain

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Old 25-05-2016, 08:45 PM   #20
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Decided tonight to cut the front bar off the subframe to give me a bit more clearance behind the front end, the front splitter was tight up against the old one and I've managed to get about an inch clearance now

Old bar cut out


New bar welded in




I'll need to re-make the mount for the left hand side of the radiator but I'm quite happy with the result. Wasn't much light so the pictures are a bit pineapple on my phone

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Old 26-05-2016, 06:05 AM   #21
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Does the alternator clear the front? Looks stuck out quite a bit.

Fitting a shorter belt and drilling the hole in adjuster bracket further down about 30mm can move it a good inch closer to the block. I had a 650mm belt on mine when I had standard pulley on but have my own bracket. I think as you have the standard mount a 5PK 675mm belt would be best. The standard belt is 730mm.

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Old 26-05-2016, 07:25 AM   #22
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[QUOTE=AGoaty;359531]Does the alternator clear the front? Looks stuck out quite a bit.

Fitting a shorter belt and drilling the hole in adjuster bracket further down about 30mm can move it a good inch closer to the block. I had a 650mm belt on mine when I had standard pulley on but have my own bracket. I think as you have the standard mount a 5PK 675mm belt would be best. The standard belt is 730mm.

The alternator does stick out too far, it's next on the list, I was thinkin a 700 belt would work but might go for 675, wasn't sure if any less than 700 would work with the standard top mount though?
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Old 26-05-2016, 02:21 PM   #23
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I've just helped my mate Steve modify the alloy bracket. He countersunk the bottom bolt them ground quite a lot of the metal away meaning the alterntor will pivot much nearer the block. He wanted to retain the bottom bolt. I suggested just cutting the mount below the main body but what he's done looks fine. Obviously it would only have 2 bolts holding it if you cut it. That must be enough though. I've been running mine on two for years including track days. If the 700mm belt gives enough clearance then that's the easiest way.

In that photo I posted I had to grind clearance on the engine block. There is a lug there which I removed about 5mm of metal from. I did go a bit overboard as when it was all on the car there was well over an inch clearance behind the front panel.
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Old 26-05-2016, 04:19 PM   #24
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I've ordered a 700 to see if it's enough, if not I'll modify the bracket some more and get the 675
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Old 03-06-2016, 08:58 AM   #25
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Still plugging away at this front end, got the aero catches fitted to the front lip


Not done anything to the back edges yet as I can't decide whether I'm going to fit a panels or not. Also still got to sort the bonnet gaps as well but it's getting there.
My 700mm alternator belt came and I've modified the brackets and now have clearance between alternator and the front panel so that's another job ticked off the list

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Old 24-06-2016, 11:10 AM   #26
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Gave the wheels a quick blast of black paint to see how they looked







Quite happy with them, overall I think the cars shaping up quite nicely

Last edited by geachy87; 11-07-2017 at 05:23 PM.
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Old 24-06-2016, 06:45 PM   #27
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Wheels look good.

I think you'll need about an inch trimming from the front arches. I did too. Just fit the arch extensions a bit higher and no-one will notice.
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Old 24-06-2016, 07:40 PM   #28
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Wheels look good.

I think you'll need about an inch trimming from the front arches. I did too. Just fit the arch extensions a bit higher and no-one will notice.
Cheers mate

Yeh I was thinking that as well, I'm going to wait till I've got the arches fitted then trim away as much as I need after
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Old 24-06-2016, 10:26 PM   #29
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Cheers mate

Yeh I was thinking that as well, I'm going to wait till I've got the arches fitted then trim away as much as I need after
No don't do that. You need to trim it first. If you fit the arches then you may still catch them with the wheel as they don't go inside the arch.

Here's mine before, but they had already been cut as was second hand.



Then after.



You will find the area towards the front needs most trimming. I still have some of the lip towards the rear. The Metro frame does move the wheels forward about 20mm from a standard Mini.

Once trimmed then fit the arch to suit the wheel, not the body. It will cover any trimming and look right then.
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Old 25-06-2016, 05:32 AM   #30
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+1 on what he says, cut/trim first fit after.
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