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Old 02-11-2013, 11:03 PM   #31
MiniLandy
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As has been said, the cable is better but make sure you do it right first time.

Basically, do it EXACTLY the same way as AGoaty says

I've fitted mine in a way that doesn't work so well. Gives a nice feel and plenty of control, but puts a bit of side load on the cable.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:58 AM   #32
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Need the pedal just to know the dimension between the mounting hole and the hook
I'll see if I can measure mine. Your the 4th person to ask about this so would be better perhaps if I can get the proper dimensions and then add this to the sticky that Gazwad has done in the chat section. There isn't any info on this it simply says "to use the cable as in the metro (for the r65 boxes, rover 200vi etc for the PG1), make a bulkhead piece and modify the pedal". No detail how to do this.

Unfortunately, it's not easy to get photo's of mine as the wiring has taken over the room in this area. Also my car has solid steel front so can't show the gearbox mods required. I'll see what I can do...
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:03 AM   #33
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I can get pics of my gearbox easily today, will get a pic of the necessary bits.
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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:08 PM   #34
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Here's what the clutch arm looks like:

Not sure, but the hydro arm could be the same.
You'll need a holder for a plastic cup that's at the end of the cable, not the best pic, but mine looks like this from underneath:

It's tucked away behind my rad, so pretty tricky to get a better pic.
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Old 03-11-2013, 08:30 PM   #35
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Mine isn't like yours Dan.

This is the original Rover 200 setup.



I cut the cup part off the original bracket as I have a MG F gearbox mounting. Then you can see two holes just below the cup on the gearbox, I mounted a piece of 40mm angle iron here to hold the cup, hanging off the edge of the new bracket.

I tried to get a photo...



I marked the centre line of the master cylinder and took this as the centre of the pedal drawing up the bulkhead. Then in the bulkhead there is a recess above the cylinders, just right to add some strength. In the bottom of the recess and at the point the marked line crosses mark again. Then as the new bar is to be welded onto the side of the pedal mark 5mm towards passenger side. Drill a hole here big enough to get the plastic end of the cable through (approx 20mm). I then got a piece of steel plate at about 100mm x 40mm x 5mm thick and drilled centrally, the same size to clear the plastic of the cable. Place the cable in and tack weld this to the bulkhead. Remove the cable and seam weld it in place.



You then need to make the hook. Pull the cable through as much as you can. This will be your start point. I used a piece of steel approx 130mm x 20mm x 5mm so get some card as a test. Hold the card on the side of the pedal, then move the pedal from it's normal up position to it's fully down position. See how much movement there is. Movement should be about 60mm. Once your happy with the card one, make it in steel. I welded mine down the pedal to stop the brass bush melting in the pivot and also to get more weld onto the pedal bar. I have seen these welded on top of the pivot, but I would be worried about it breaking as they are under quite a lot of strain.

There was a lot (I mean a lot) of thinking and trial and error went into this. The result is very good and doesn't cost a lot of money (Yorkshire lad, sorry).
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:11 AM   #36
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Although I haven't driven mine yet I did what agoaty said and it feels really nice. Not too heavy and have enough travel
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Old 04-11-2013, 05:02 PM   #37
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Cheers for the info guys, I will be attempting to do the clutch cable this week so I will post some pics and dimensions for the pedal once its done.
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Old 10-11-2013, 08:46 AM   #38
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Just a small update on the clutch cable

making the cup was quite easy


But had alot of trial and error with the pedal, got there in the end though and seems to work ok.


For anyone else doing this the measurement from the centre of the mounting hole to the centre of the hook is 50mm on mine.

Last edited by Readie; 10-07-2017 at 11:01 AM.
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:50 AM   #39
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Looking good and some photo's too which help! Nice one.

The hook part, does the cable end go onto that? Looks a bit thick. I used the flat bar the other way, as in flat against the pedal and narrowed it towards the end.

Glad to have helped!
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Old 29-11-2013, 05:35 PM   #40
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Another update

Removed the engine and box to fit the gearbox with the slip diff fitted, decided it was best to put a new clutch on at the same time.





Shortened the gear linkage by 2 inches



Then swapped the front subframe bar for a square tube but didnt realise how much further back it was and had to adapt it to fit the manifold and oil filter.





Finally got the engine fitted back in and realised the rover vi lower engine mount doesnt line up with the mgf subframe mount. Does anyone know if they are different?


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Old 30-11-2013, 03:30 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGoaty View Post
Looking good and some photo's too which help! Nice one.

The hook part, does the cable end go onto that? Looks a bit thick. I used the flat bar the other way, as in flat against the pedal and narrowed it towards the end.

Glad to have helped!
Sorry very late reply, the cable goes on the hook no problem should be very easy to change if it ever breaks, I tried to angle the hook as far down the pedal to stop the bush from melting. One thing that concerns me about having the cable clutch is the bulkhead seems to flex when you press the pedal has anyone else noticed this?
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Old 02-12-2013, 01:42 PM   #42
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I have noticed this but it hasn't caused any problems so far and I've done 5000 miles in it!

If you look at the MG F brake servo mounting. That moves by a similar amount. I suppose it could do with something stronger along the bulkhead to stop this. I agree, it's a potential fail point for the future if it keeps flexing.

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Old 07-12-2013, 07:52 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGoaty View Post
I have noticed this but it hasn't caused any problems so far and I've done 5000 miles in it!

If you look at the MG F brake servo mounting. That moves by a similar amount. I suppose it could do with something stronger along the bulkhead to stop this. I agree, it's a potential fail point for the future if it keeps flexing.

Thats good to hear its not just mine, will be keeping an eye on it though

Got my alloys painted this week and tyres fitted



Also fitted new bakes hoses and routed the pipes inside the car with an adjustable bias valve. Bled them up today and all working well.




Last edited by Readie; 10-07-2017 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 15-12-2013, 08:48 AM   #44
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Running on brake cleaner

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Old 21-04-2014, 07:35 PM   #45
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Right i think after 4 months its time for an update.

Progress has been slow, as alot of jobs i expected to be quick and easy ended up taking alot longer and im only getting a couple of hours each week to work on it.

After giving up with my fibreglass front i had bought second hand which someone had extended themselves and wouldnt fit properly, I decided to go to ABS and get a 2 piece 90mm extended front making the job alot easier.
I was hoping to get the front bar of the subframe hidden away but I realised this wasnt possible so i may add a chin spoiler depending on how visible it is once painted.



Managed to get hold of an automatic micra rad which seems about the right size, had the outlet cut and welded to make the hoses fit better but need to work out where to put the temp sensor and fan sensor in.



Inside is now painted, roll cage is in but needs bolting down and made the brackets to hold the drivers seat in place.





More recently I fitted a new cambelt, vvc belt & water pump
Made up the exhaust system with rc40 backbox
Fitted the fuel lines
& decided to make some extra mounts for the subframe whilst the engine was out




Last edited by Readie; 10-07-2017 at 11:02 AM.
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