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Old 21-01-2013, 04:19 PM   #16
Readie
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Work is quiet and my van is in the garage for a new clutch so iv had some time to get the floors and some other bits done. Certainly feels like im getting somewhere now that the floor and cross member is more or less done and i can move onto the rear of the shell. Cant wait to finish it so i can start the subframe and get the engine in.


I seam welded this side but think i should have plug welded like iv done with the other,














Spent all day today in the snow fitting the passenger side floor and cross member, was very cold but well worth it. Tomorrows job is to fit the outer sills, rear quarter repair panels. Then iv got the boot floor, lower back panel that the boot attaches to and valance and hopefully that should be the shell done.

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Old 22-05-2013, 10:08 PM   #17
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Been busy finishing off the shell and finally after 12 months graft its all done. The last thing left to do was get it stone chipped today so i can take it off the spit and onto some wheels. Next job is to fit the new wishbones and radius arms onto the subframes and rebuild the brakes to get it rolling again and I will start posting more now that the boring bit is over.


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Old 02-11-2013, 03:13 PM   #18
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Time for a much needed update, although i haven't posted for a few months i have been busy on the mini. As you can see the shell is now completely rot free and i have started the VVC build now,

Fitted the rear beam, coilovers, new radius arms and rebuilt the rear drums


Back on 4 wheels ready to move to be taken to work were I have a lot more room.




Welded the Subframe to floor Mounting


Front coilovers fitted with 500lb 7 inch springs, also rebuilt the hubs with new bearing and ball joints.


Test fitted the engine


Front Brake lines connected


Tested the fibreglass front end but its seems as though its not going to be any good, its been extended from a standard front and whoever has done obviously made a mess of it, theres about 2-3 inch gap at each side



And today i have cut and welded the manifold to sit closer to the block as well as moving the lambda sensor from the back to the side


Still plenty to go at before shes on the road but im getting more and more enthusiasm to work on her now. Next job is to get the alloys painted this week and decided whether to have a cable or hydraulic clutch? Any pros? cons? to both

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Old 02-11-2013, 07:13 PM   #19
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I think pro's will be cost and availability of parts! Both systems work well.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:24 PM   #20
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I have a cable and it's a git to replace, make sure if you go cable that it has a good route with no tight bends and no rubbing where it comes through the bulkhead.
I toyed with going hydraulic but the slave cylinder wouldn't fit.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:27 PM   #21
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I have a cable and can replace it without need of any tools in under 15 mins.

Don't know what the issue is?

Standard Rover 200 cable.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:33 PM   #22
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Im thinking cable would be easier as i already have the cable off the rover 200 and the gearbox is cable so would just need to modify the peddle. The main reason i was thinking of going hydraulic was if i was to change my lsd to the non vvc mgf gearbox for better ratios? How did you get around this AGoaty?

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Old 02-11-2013, 07:35 PM   #23
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Im thinking cable would be easier as i already have the cable off the rover 200 and the gearbox is cable so would just need to modify the peddle. The main reason i was thinking of going hydraulic was if i was to change my lsd to the non vvc mgf gearbox for better ratios?
That wouldn't matter how the clutch was operated.

I did this sketch for the mods required to the pedal. Hope it helps.



Then plate a added to the bulkhead for strength.

You'll also need to fabricate a bracket onto the gearbox to hold the cable just above the lever. I butchered the original mount and used some 40mm angle iron to hold it to the gearbox. There are some holes there to use...
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:37 PM   #24
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That wouldn't matter how the clutch was operated.
Arent mgf boxes hydraulic? Can you change them over?
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:41 PM   #25
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Arent mgf boxes hydraulic? Can you change them over?
They are but it's just the arm thats different. You can swap them over.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:43 PM   #26
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They are but it's just the arm thats different. You can swap them over.
Ah right that decided then il keep the cable, thanks for that did have a nosey at it on your build diary before. Just need to get a rover pedal now.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:46 PM   #27
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Ah right that decided then il keep the cable, thanks for that did have a nosey at it on your build diary before. Just need to get a rover pedal now.
You don't need a Rover pedal. Just weld a plate onto the Mini pedal, with the hook on it. Wants to be about 5mm plate though to keep the strength.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:59 PM   #28
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You don't need a Rover pedal. Just weld a plate onto the Mini pedal, with the hook on it. Wants to be about 5mm plate though to keep the strength.
Need the pedal just to know the dimension between the mounting hole and the hook
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:04 PM   #29
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The way my pedal was modified and how it goes through the bulkhead makes it a pain in the ass to change the cable, that's the most important bit to get right!
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:13 PM   #30
AGoaty
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I did mine with trial and error. I used bits of cardboard taped to the side of the pedal to make sure I would get enough travel for the cable to operate the clutch.

It's all shown on the first page of my build. I did try to explain the pedal mods to Adam on here hence the sketch. He copied the same and seemed happy with the result.

My pedal feels just the same a Mini would normally. Not too heavy.

If you need to change the cable you unhook it from the gearbox end, pull it into the engine bay. You can reach up behind the dash to the top of the pedal to unhook it. Not too hard at all.
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