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Old 25-10-2011, 08:58 PM   #16
richie08
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Got the belly treated in stonechip. Also finished off the inside skin of the rof which had surface rust by trating with kurust, cleaning with the wire wheel, and then treating with a por15 style paint.




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Old 27-10-2011, 10:25 PM   #17
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Flipped it onto it's belly (all by myself, well it's not that heavy!)



Then I taped a rear arch in place and drew around it as a template





I'm tubbing the rear arches, so these lines helped me decide where to cut, ensuring I leave a flange for the arch mounting studs, and put a bend in it to weld to the inner arch when i fit it.



Chopped out the old inner arch:




Then I made up a new inner arch, in readiness for welding into place:



Cheers,
Richie.
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Old 02-11-2011, 11:08 PM   #18
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After spending the past two nights replacing the brake pipes on the mercedes to get it through it's mot, i was happy to get half an hour on this tonight! Basically, started welding in the new inner arch, but have a few bits still to finish. I also cut out the rotten part above the valance, an welded in the new panel. It will of course need a lot of tidying too with the flap disc and a skim of filler to smooth out the bumps.

So here's how it looks now:







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Old 19-01-2012, 12:09 AM   #19
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Due to some redecoration in my house, I've not gone near this in a while - but as I don't want it to rot away inside my garage, I decided that I really needed to get my finger out and get some motivation.

Well, I'm certainly glad I did as I achieved a lot, now I've got enthusiasm again and looking forward to the next trip out to the garage,

First up, I flipped the car onto it's other side so I could get access to work on the nearside floor, sill, flitch etc. This is how bad the old inner sill, flitch, door step etc was:







Then I chopped out the old inner sill, dressed all of the edges, used my joggler to joggle the new panel and to punch holes into the new flanges for plug welds. I found that the holes are too so i've been making about three holes in succession to give a larger hole to weld.





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Old 19-01-2012, 12:10 AM   #20
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Old 02-02-2012, 06:55 PM   #21
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27/01/12

A wee bit of progress on this, I've started welding in the nearside floor







I had a few wire feed issues, so it isn't quite as neat as I'd have liked. But will be fine once I've gone over it with the flap disc.


01/02/12

I braced up the shell using angle iron, chopped out the old door step, then got the new one clamped in place. I had previously used my punch to put the rows of holes into it, then I used the MIG to plug weld it in place.




I also choped out the rot from the passenger side inner wheel arch, and repaired the a panel mounting flange.



welded up the standard jacking point in the new outer sill,



Doorstep fully fitted and all edges dressed to enable out sill to be fitted,



sill and closing panel all welded up:










I'll need to get busy with the flap disc now to tidy it all up!
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Old 03-02-2012, 01:17 PM   #22
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Looking good this. You will have practically have a new shell in the end.
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Old 19-02-2012, 10:23 PM   #23
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19/2/12

I've done some work on the boot floor



















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Old 21-02-2012, 10:56 PM   #24
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21/2/12

boot floor now repaired, started on the rear valance panels and did one of the repair sections for the back corners too.





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Old 22-04-2012, 08:53 PM   #25
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22/4/12

It's been a couple of months since ive been near this, mainly down to working on lesley's mini, my mini, mate's mini and sister's car lol. But I did a few wee bits on Friday afternoon whilst I waited on the paint drying on my cooper. I flapped down the welds, cut out another bit of rot at the back and welded in new metal, and painted it all in primer just to keep any rust at bay as it might be a while before im back working on it










Only other thing is I got my rear window cover things to make it a clubvan estate. These are going to need a wee bit of work though :S

























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Old 17-07-2012, 05:34 PM   #26
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I keep forgetting to update this build diary! Ooops. Here's my last two updates:

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 29/5/12

That's been about a month without going near it. But i did go into the garage for an hour or so to make a start on this rear valance as once it's done i can refit the rear subframe and get it the right way up.

At this time, i've punched the panels in preperation for the plug welding and i've clamped them into place. just need to give it a wee blast with the wire wheel to remove paint then i can weld it up.

here's two pineapplepy pictures:




~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~

15/07/2012

After a break that's been too long, i finally got a few hours in the garage tonight and managed to fit the rear valance panels - although i have left one of the corner panels off for now - until the car is flipped back on all fours.






I then went back to the floor that i welded in a few months back. At the time, i joggled the new floor to create an overlap, but i decided i wasn't happy with the flap left inside the car, so i decided to seam weld it, meaning that the floor repairs are now double welded.




Once this was done, I gave the lot a quick coat of primer where the welding had burnt the paint off. I will be stonechipping it all then spraying it with top coat soon, then i can flip it back the correct way up at last


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Old 18-07-2012, 10:59 PM   #27
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18/7/12


Tonight I ent over all of the plug welds with the flap disk to get them flush - particularly important on all the rear seams as there will be frim to fit to them. I then primed the valances, seam sealed all of the other welds, then covered the lot in stonechip. Once that had dried, i sprayed the whole floor with some silver cellulose i had lying around. Initially just as a means to protect the paint, but i'm starting to ponder whether this might make for a good final colour.

Anyway, here's some pics - which im afraid are poor quality and dont do the finish justice.









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Old 26-07-2012, 11:09 PM   #28
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26/7/12

Been doing a few things to this in the past week or so, got several more coats of paint on the floor, painted the rear subframe black, and fitted it to the car:



This meant I could finally get it flipped the correct way round:






but I also realised that to get it moving, im going to need radius arms. I had a collection of six, so i picked the two that seemed the best of the lot, stripped them down and began to clean them using the wire wheel on the grinder. I then gave them a few coats of yellow hammerite:








In the process of that, my grinder started to make some dodgy noises of the electrical variety, and some big arc'ing was coming from the inside. So a quick replacement of the otor's brushes sorted that out:



once I had painted the arms, I noticed severe wear on one of the arms, where the pin had not only worn through the needle bearing, it had also worn into the radius arm!! A few measurements confirmed that it was scrap.






So did it all again on another spare radius arm, but i checked the state of it all first this time:



Whilst the paint was drying on the arms, i had a quick trial fit of my front end. The most car-like this thing this has appeared like in a long time:




I then started tackling the passenger side inner wing. It was rotten through both layers at the shock mounts, and had a wee hole at the air vents, so i cut all the rot out:







Had to go quite far with the shock mount area, and will be fitting M8 captive nuts to the bottom of the mounts, seeing as this will be where the side plates for the subframe fit, along with coilovers. Need this area to be very strong!!!!

Finally, here's some pics of my subframe, which is from a late rover 100. I have ordered a new passenger side wishbone for it, as you can see there is a bit of corrosion on it. I'm tempted to shorten the front a little to squeeze it under the clubman front end, without anything hanging out. I have also removed the rear body mounts. I have also included pictures of the side plates I had made for me by ABAND on the 16V mini forum. He also made these threaded tubes for me so I can make some tower mounts, and I will be making some reinforcing bars to attach t the floor too, so that this subframe has three points of mounting to the shell.







I have a couple of sets of alloys for this, can't decide which ones to use. any opinions?




And a few other bits and bobs that got delivered today; radius arm revuild kits, new drums, wheel cylinders and the long clevis pins for the handbrake trunions. I already have new back plates, brake shoes and brake pipes in storage.



Hopefully manage a wee bit more progress tomorrow!!

Richie.
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Old 27-07-2012, 07:49 PM   #29
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27/07/12

Had a few hours in the garage after work. First up, i made a new stiffener plate (using the old one as a template) and welded it in:




Then I made a new outer repair panel (note the two holes drilled in it to align with the damper mounting holes). I also drilled about another ten holes to plug weld the two plates together.





I welded up the hole I cut in the bulkhead. I also bolted up one of the side plates so that I could mark out and drill the other two mounting holes, then I welded in some high tensile M8 nuts:






I cleaned it all up with the flap disc:



And I removed the last bits of the a-panel. I was pleasently surprised to find that the edge was actually not rotten! (well, apart from the very bottom which I cut out and replaced when I was fitting the door step)




Finally, I primed the whole lot up (a-panel seam done with weld-thru primer)



Rgds,
Richie.
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Old 01-08-2012, 10:28 PM   #30
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01/08/12

Wasnt well the past few days so have fallen behind and lost enthusiasm, but trying to muscle on a bit tonight. I removed the main air intake duct for the heater and took the wire wheel to the inner arch / flitch. Imagine my delight when I found it was totally solid beneath a thin veneer of surface rust! all rust cleaned back, kurust'd




I also repaired the shock mount at this side, which thankfully was in much better condition than the nearside:



And filled a few extra holes on the bulkhead


And then primed to protect the bare metal:




Filled four holes in the bulkead that arent required:




and presumably, when fitting a k-frame, I'll need to remove the old engine stady mount and the old steering rack mount?


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