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#226 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: northampton
Posts: 2,012
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
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on the front (exhaust) side of the engine towards the gearbox end, just below the water outlet from the head
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my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887 https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0 |
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#227 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
Posts: 524
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8VVC
Make: Rover
ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade
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Thanks
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#228 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
Posts: 524
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8VVC
Make: Rover
ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade
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I think the car is still in my garage. TBH I'd forgotten how disruptive it is moving house - thought I'd only be held up a couple of weeks. Over 2 months already
![]() ![]() Or has anyone tried wiring in something like this? ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#229 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Keighley, West Yorkshire
Posts: 2,945
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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I realise the reason you want to do the high level brake light but also think you should look for that specifically as a fog light has a different light pattern lense.
Saying this, so many lighting faults on cars these day and the Police don't do anything. If you have a friendly MOT tester, that probably won't be noticed. Scorpion has a high level brake light. If you are interested, I can post it to you. PM me and I can get a pic.
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If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en. |
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#230 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Whitworth, Lancashire
Posts: 6,004
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8
Make: Rover
ECU: Emerald K6
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I got mine from Spiyda but I can’t find them on his site anymore.
https://spiyda.com/led-vehicle-light...units.html?p=2 Would be worth messaging him and seeing if he still does them if you like it. Thought I had a pic of mine but I don’t, so I’ve stolen this one: ![]() Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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#231 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,386
Subframe: Other
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
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New subframe fitting has begun - slowly Build Thread - Round Nose B series AWD build on Rover K series frames has begun, will it all fit ?? |
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#232 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
Posts: 524
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8VVC
Make: Rover
ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade
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Fair points made. I do have a tendency to over complicate things.... thanks for the links I'll take a look. TBH the idea started out for the right reason but in the end I just thought a race car style rain light on the back shelf might be quite cool
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#233 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Keighley, West Yorkshire
Posts: 2,945
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: Standard
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The high level brake light should actually touch on to the back window and have a seal around it. This is to prevent the light reflection back into your car. That one Dan posted is available from most Mini part dealers. Looks good too.
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If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en. |
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#234 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Campbeltown, Scotland
Posts: 466
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1.8t
Make: Rover
ECU: Kmaps
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https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-93234-a...7-428-001.aspx
Apparently this is the same part number as the one fitted to the later minis but at a fraction of the price that people want for a second hand one these days |
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#235 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Strichen Aberdeenshire
Posts: 1,379
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1800
Make: Rover
ECU: K maps 160 Race
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Good find!
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#236 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
Posts: 524
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8VVC
Make: Rover
ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade
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Thanks!
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#237 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
Posts: 524
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8VVC
Make: Rover
ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade
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Subframe design question for those who've built their own. The lower arm set up on allspeed etc uses a bolt through two fixed plates so you have to fit the bushes to the lower arm first, then fit, slide the bolt through and tighten up. Original mini set-up using the lower arm pin allows for some compression of the bushes as you tighten up since front side is part of the pin and moves. So on the allspeed type set-up is there some flex on the frame to compress the bushes? Or is the frame solid and you have to accept the bushes aren't clamped up in the same way.
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#238 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: dunkeswell airfeald devon
Posts: 7,856
Subframe: AMT
CC: 2000
Make: Vauxhall
ECU: dizzy/webers
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Your on the right wave length James. Your new design at them is good!! What are you thinking?
Sorry about the beet about bush answer lol
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"yuck ,more like a 3 r2" http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=tb261HwQNDQ SAY WHAT YOU BELEVE,,BELEVE WHAT YOU LIKE, http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3JhaTwP7uuk |
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#239 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: northampton
Posts: 2,012
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
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the bushes shouldn't be 'clamped up' as such. On both the allspeed and normal mini frames it's the sleeve that should be clamped tight. On my frame I have solid plates either side of the bushes which are spaced the exact width of the sleve, there is a tiny amount of flex in the material so that the sleeve is clamped tight when the bolt is tightened. the only downside with this is it can make fitting the bushes tricky as it's a tigh squeeze to push the lower arm (with bushes) in as the rubber is wider than the sleeve. I get round this by using a knife to put a slight chamfer on the rubber bush to guide it in and I jack the plates apart a few mm before fitting - the bolt soon pulls them together again.
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my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887 https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0 |
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#240 |
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Aylesbury, Bucks
Posts: 524
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8VVC
Make: Rover
ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade
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Perfect, thanks.
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