Retro Clubman VVC - Page 16

gazwad · 11-12-2017, 06:53 PM

on the front (exhaust) side of the engine towards the gearbox end, just below the water outlet from the head

Yellow · 11-12-2017, 07:33 PM

Thanks

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Yellow · 12-02-2018, 05:45 AM

I think the car is still in my garage. TBH I'd forgotten how disruptive it is moving house - thought I'd only be held up a couple of weeks. Over 2 months already

. Plus it's cold out there........ got a bit more to do sorting the garage out (nothing fancy, just knowing where my tools are would be a good start) then I'll be back on it. In the meantime I saw a vid of some poor guy who had his mini rear-ended and it reminded me when it happened to me a few years back. We spend hundreds of hours on these things and then some plonker can ruin it in seconds - in my case claimed the brake lights were not bright enough and too low down to see. So I was thinking the other day about an eyeball burning high level stop lamp on the rear shelf. Have seen these used which could look reasonably subtle. Maybe with a high power LED replacement bulb.

Or has anyone tried wiring in something like this?

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AGoaty · 12-02-2018, 10:23 AM

I realise the reason you want to do the high level brake light but also think you should look for that specifically as a fog light has a different light pattern lense.

Saying this, so many lighting faults on cars these day and the Police don't do anything. If you have a friendly MOT tester, that probably won't be noticed.

Scorpion has a high level brake light. If you are interested, I can post it to you. PM me and I can get a pic.

InstantCustard · 12-02-2018, 11:46 AM

I got mine from Spiyda but I can’t find them on his site anymore.
https://spiyda.com/led-vehicle-light...units.html?p=2
Would be worth messaging him and seeing if he still does them if you like it.
Thought I had a pic of mine but I don’t, so I’ve stolen this one:

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Oz · 12-02-2018, 12:00 PM

https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/...grid&orderBy=0

Several options on here that might suit ?

Yellow · 12-02-2018, 01:19 PM

Fair points made. I do have a tendency to over complicate things.... thanks for the links I'll take a look. TBH the idea started out for the right reason but in the end I just thought a race car style rain light on the back shelf might be quite cool

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AGoaty · 12-02-2018, 03:20 PM

The high level brake light should actually touch on to the back window and have a seal around it. This is to prevent the light reflection back into your car. That one Dan posted is available from most Mini part dealers. Looks good too.

geachy87 · 14-02-2018, 08:40 AM

https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-93234-a...7-428-001.aspx

Apparently this is the same part number as the one fitted to the later minis but at a fraction of the price that people want for a second hand one these days

gadget555 · 14-02-2018, 09:03 AM

Good find!

Yellow · 14-02-2018, 11:40 AM

Thanks!

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Yellow · 23-03-2018, 02:32 PM

Subframe design question for those who've built their own. The lower arm set up on allspeed etc uses a bolt through two fixed plates so you have to fit the bushes to the lower arm first, then fit, slide the bolt through and tighten up. Original mini set-up using the lower arm pin allows for some compression of the bushes as you tighten up since front side is part of the pin and moves. So on the allspeed type set-up is there some flex on the frame to compress the bushes? Or is the frame solid and you have to accept the bushes aren't clamped up in the same way.

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ardonfast · 23-03-2018, 03:50 PM

Your on the right wave length James. Your new design at them is good!! What are you thinking?
Sorry about the beet about bush answer lol

gazwad · 23-03-2018, 03:57 PM

the bushes shouldn't be 'clamped up' as such. On both the allspeed and normal mini frames it's the sleeve that should be clamped tight. On my frame I have solid plates either side of the bushes which are spaced the exact width of the sleve, there is a tiny amount of flex in the material so that the sleeve is clamped tight when the bolt is tightened. the only downside with this is it can make fitting the bushes tricky as it's a tigh squeeze to push the lower arm (with bushes) in as the rubber is wider than the sleeve. I get round this by using a knife to put a slight chamfer on the rubber bush to guide it in and I jack the plates apart a few mm before fitting - the bolt soon pulls them together again.

Yellow · 23-03-2018, 04:45 PM

Perfect, thanks.

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11-12-2017, 06:53 PM	#226
gazwad Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: northampton Posts: 1,872 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1796 Make: Rover ECU: standard	on the front (exhaust) side of the engine towards the gearbox end, just below the water outlet from the head __________________ my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887 https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0

12-02-2018, 10:23 AM	#229
AGoaty Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Keighley, West Yorkshire Posts: 2,659 Subframe: Watson CC: 1796 Make: Rover ECU: Standard	I realise the reason you want to do the high level brake light but also think you should look for that specifically as a fog light has a different light pattern lense. Saying this, so many lighting faults on cars these day and the Police don't do anything. If you have a friendly MOT tester, that probably won't be noticed. Scorpion has a high level brake light. If you are interested, I can post it to you. PM me and I can get a pic. __________________ If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en.

12-02-2018, 12:00 PM	#231
Oz Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Jersey, Channel Islands Posts: 4,060 Subframe: Other CC: 1595 Make: Honda ECU: DTA	https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/...grid&orderBy=0 Several options on here that might suit ? __________________ New subframe fitting has begun - slowly Build Thread - Standard Round Nose with K series subframe build begun

12-02-2018, 03:20 PM	#233
AGoaty Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Keighley, West Yorkshire Posts: 2,659 Subframe: Watson CC: 1796 Make: Rover ECU: Standard	The high level brake light should actually touch on to the back window and have a seal around it. This is to prevent the light reflection back into your car. That one Dan posted is available from most Mini part dealers. Looks good too. __________________ If tha does owt fo nowt, olas do it fo this 'en.

23-03-2018, 03:50 PM	#238
ardonfast Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: dunkeswell airfeald devon Posts: 7,507 Subframe: AMT CC: 2000 Make: Vauxhall ECU: dizzy/webers	Your on the right wave length James. Your new design at them is good!! What are you thinking? Sorry about the beet about bush answer lol __________________ "yuck ,more like a 3 r2" http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=tb261HwQNDQ SAY WHAT YOU BELEVE,,BELEVE WHAT YOU LIKE, http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3JhaTwP7uuk

11-12-2017, 07:33 PM	#227
Yellow Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Aylesbury, Bucks Posts: 480 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1.8VVC Make: Rover ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade	Thanks Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

12-02-2018, 05:45 AM	#228
Yellow Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Aylesbury, Bucks Posts: 480 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1.8VVC Make: Rover ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade	I think the car is still in my garage. TBH I'd forgotten how disruptive it is moving house - thought I'd only be held up a couple of weeks. Over 2 months already . Plus it's cold out there........ got a bit more to do sorting the garage out (nothing fancy, just knowing where my tools are would be a good start) then I'll be back on it. In the meantime I saw a vid of some poor guy who had his mini rear-ended and it reminded me when it happened to me a few years back. We spend hundreds of hours on these things and then some plonker can ruin it in seconds - in my case claimed the brake lights were not bright enough and too low down to see. So I was thinking the other day about an eyeball burning high level stop lamp on the rear shelf. Have seen these used which could look reasonably subtle. Maybe with a high power LED replacement bulb. Or has anyone tried wiring in something like this? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

12-02-2018, 01:19 PM	#232
Yellow Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Aylesbury, Bucks Posts: 480 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1.8VVC Make: Rover ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade	Fair points made. I do have a tendency to over complicate things.... thanks for the links I'll take a look. TBH the idea started out for the right reason but in the end I just thought a race car style rain light on the back shelf might be quite cool Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

14-02-2018, 08:40 AM	#234
geachy87 Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2013 Location: Campbeltown, Scotland Posts: 428 Subframe: Watson CC: 1.8t Make: Rover ECU: Kmaps	https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-93234-a...7-428-001.aspx Apparently this is the same part number as the one fitted to the later minis but at a fraction of the price that people want for a second hand one these days

14-02-2018, 09:03 AM	#235
gadget555 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Strichen Aberdeenshire Posts: 1,237 Subframe: Watson CC: 1800 Make: Rover ECU: K maps 160 Race	Good find!

14-02-2018, 11:40 AM	#236
Yellow Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Aylesbury, Bucks Posts: 480 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1.8VVC Make: Rover ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade	Thanks! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

23-03-2018, 02:32 PM	#237
Yellow Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Aylesbury, Bucks Posts: 480 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1.8VVC Make: Rover ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade	Subframe design question for those who've built their own. The lower arm set up on allspeed etc uses a bolt through two fixed plates so you have to fit the bushes to the lower arm first, then fit, slide the bolt through and tighten up. Original mini set-up using the lower arm pin allows for some compression of the bushes as you tighten up since front side is part of the pin and moves. So on the allspeed type set-up is there some flex on the frame to compress the bushes? Or is the frame solid and you have to accept the bushes aren't clamped up in the same way. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

23-03-2018, 03:57 PM	#239
gazwad Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: northampton Posts: 1,872 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1796 Make: Rover ECU: standard	the bushes shouldn't be 'clamped up' as such. On both the allspeed and normal mini frames it's the sleeve that should be clamped tight. On my frame I have solid plates either side of the bushes which are spaced the exact width of the sleve, there is a tiny amount of flex in the material so that the sleeve is clamped tight when the bolt is tightened. the only downside with this is it can make fitting the bushes tricky as it's a tigh squeeze to push the lower arm (with bushes) in as the rubber is wider than the sleeve. I get round this by using a knife to put a slight chamfer on the rubber bush to guide it in and I jack the plates apart a few mm before fitting - the bolt soon pulls them together again. __________________ my build: http://www.16vminiclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4887 https://youtu.be/X7O46JmFPh0

23-03-2018, 04:45 PM	#240
Yellow Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Aylesbury, Bucks Posts: 480 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1.8VVC Make: Rover ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade	Perfect, thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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