Metro radius arms???

benvvc · 01-07-2019, 03:27 PM

Hi can someone clarify as to wether metro radius arms fit in a mini subframe?

And also does anyone know how to alter the stub axles so that you can mount your mini rear shocks to them?

Currently running a Watson's front subframe and rear spacers but the track is still around 3 inches narrower at the rear, and I'm trying to equal the front and rear track without ridiculous spacers.

Ben

gadget555 · 02-07-2019, 07:40 AM

Exactly the same problem I had. I had some custom arm pins & spacers made to space the back plates and drums out and then used 1" pcd adapters to give an extra 1" to fit the metro wheels.

Oz · 02-07-2019, 08:10 AM

The Metro arm pivot shaft is 40mm or so shorter than a Mini one so without making a new outer bracket it is not a bolt-on fit

You could press out the Metro stub axle and fit a Mini one but you will still have an issue. The Metro arm is much wider than the Mini one so the damper would have to be stretched at an angle to get it on the stub axle. That probably is not good for its operation or the rubber bushhings.

What you could do is make a bracket that bolts to the 3 rear back plate bolts and makes up the space between the arm and the damper.

Or as gadget has done, use a Mini arm, space out the Mini drum and get a longer stub axle made. MarkD used to make them but contact with him is sporadic.

benvvc · 02-07-2019, 12:49 PM

Cheers for the replies. im using offset coilovers as I used to have a beam axle. I have looked into the rear bracket option, and thought about welding a bit of steel bar to the rear of the arm and using the bracket as extra support, then drill and tap a 12mm thread into it and use a ht bolt to mount the shock on???

Any pros or cons to this idea?

Adamrichards · 07-07-2019, 07:41 PM

I'm trying my luck with the same convertion at the moment so far I have found that you need new stub axles can be machined from bar stock (E19 or equivalent think is 4140) I cant remeber the measurmensts off top my head but I think you need to add an extra 70mm onto the existing length of the stub axle in order to reach the shock mount position

The arm its self is the around 20mm smaller in width than the mini ons so a bush has to be made up and you can use the standard minibar arm shaft as same diamiter .

Then lastly you have to overcome the handbrake cable this can be done by drilling a hold in the arm and inserting a tube that can be welded in so that the handbrake quadrant can be fitted then just extend the end bracket slightly to compensate for the extra length

Only other thing I have found is the arm catches on the subrame as it's not as smooth as the mini arm this just need a good grinding session just to smoth out the nobbaly bits

Ps sorry for any spelling or grammar replying in a hurry

Artstu · 08-07-2019, 05:38 AM

These are 100 mm longer I think

Adamrichards · 08-07-2019, 12:29 PM

Could I ask where you got them from ? And how much thay cost need to get some made myself

Is the 100mm for mini fitment or midas ?

Artstu · 08-07-2019, 01:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Adamrichards

Could I ask where you got them from ? And how much thay cost need to get some made myself

Is the 100mm for mini fitment or midas ?

Yes those are Midas fitment, I've PM'd you Roy's email address.

Adamrichards · 08-07-2019, 03:06 PM

Thanks very much I will drop him a message

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

benvvc · 11-07-2019, 12:43 PM

Could you PM me the guys email address too plz as would save a lot of swearing and head scratching lol

Artstu · 11-07-2019, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by benvvc

Could you PM me the guys email address too plz as would save a lot of swearing and head scratching lol

OK

benvvc · 15-07-2019, 05:54 PM

Thanks

Adamrichards · 21-07-2019, 04:08 PM

Few pics from the progress nothing much but can see that a 25mm spaces needed to stop the arm drifting using mini shaft

Also I have ground down some of the casting Mark's that stopped it from having a smooth movement also shaved a light bit off the knuckle joint cup and that also rubs but only a couple of MM

Just need a stub axle and she will be also complete

Only other issue I have seen is i have rover metro arms I believe thay use a diffrent knuckle joint this doesn't fit inside the HI low shafts of my not 100% how I'm going to get round this yet need to see if mini ones will fit

Or maybe have to get my hands on Austin metro arms instead

Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

01-07-2019, 03:27 PM	#1
benvvc Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: west midlands Posts: 155 Subframe: Watson CC: 1800 Make: Rover ECU: standard	Metro radius arms??? Hi can someone clarify as to wether metro radius arms fit in a mini subframe? And also does anyone know how to alter the stub axles so that you can mount your mini rear shocks to them? Currently running a Watson's front subframe and rear spacers but the track is still around 3 inches narrower at the rear, and I'm trying to equal the front and rear track without ridiculous spacers. Ben

02-07-2019, 08:10 AM	#3
Oz Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Jersey, Channel Islands Posts: 4,547 Subframe: Other CC: 1595 Make: Honda ECU: DTA	The Metro arm pivot shaft is 40mm or so shorter than a Mini one so without making a new outer bracket it is not a bolt-on fit You could press out the Metro stub axle and fit a Mini one but you will still have an issue. The Metro arm is much wider than the Mini one so the damper would have to be stretched at an angle to get it on the stub axle. That probably is not good for its operation or the rubber bushhings. What you could do is make a bracket that bolts to the 3 rear back plate bolts and makes up the space between the arm and the damper. Or as gadget has done, use a Mini arm, space out the Mini drum and get a longer stub axle made. MarkD used to make them but contact with him is sporadic. __________________ New subframe fitting has begun - slowly Build Thread - standard length round nose B series with Rover K series frame, will it all fit ??

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02-07-2019, 07:40 AM	#2
gadget555 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Strichen Aberdeenshire Posts: 1,489 Subframe: Watson CC: 1800 Make: Rover ECU: K maps 160 Race	Exactly the same problem I had. I had some custom arm pins & spacers made to space the back plates and drums out and then used 1" pcd adapters to give an extra 1" to fit the metro wheels.

02-07-2019, 12:49 PM	#4
benvvc Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: west midlands Posts: 155 Subframe: Watson CC: 1800 Make: Rover ECU: standard	Cheers for the replies. im using offset coilovers as I used to have a beam axle. I have looked into the rear bracket option, and thought about welding a bit of steel bar to the rear of the arm and using the bracket as extra support, then drill and tap a 12mm thread into it and use a ht bolt to mount the shock on??? Any pros or cons to this idea?

07-07-2019, 07:41 PM	#5
Adamrichards Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Posts: 4	I'm trying my luck with the same convertion at the moment so far I have found that you need new stub axles can be machined from bar stock (E19 or equivalent think is 4140) I cant remeber the measurmensts off top my head but I think you need to add an extra 70mm onto the existing length of the stub axle in order to reach the shock mount position The arm its self is the around 20mm smaller in width than the mini ons so a bush has to be made up and you can use the standard minibar arm shaft as same diamiter . Then lastly you have to overcome the handbrake cable this can be done by drilling a hold in the arm and inserting a tube that can be welded in so that the handbrake quadrant can be fitted then just extend the end bracket slightly to compensate for the extra length Only other thing I have found is the arm catches on the subrame as it's not as smooth as the mini arm this just need a good grinding session just to smoth out the nobbaly bits Ps sorry for any spelling or grammar replying in a hurry

08-07-2019, 12:29 PM	#7
Adamrichards Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Posts: 4	Could I ask where you got them from ? And how much thay cost need to get some made myself Is the 100mm for mini fitment or midas ?

08-07-2019, 03:06 PM	#9
Adamrichards Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Posts: 4	Thanks very much I will drop him a message Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk

11-07-2019, 12:43 PM	#10
benvvc Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: west midlands Posts: 155 Subframe: Watson CC: 1800 Make: Rover ECU: standard	Could you PM me the guys email address too plz as would save a lot of swearing and head scratching lol

15-07-2019, 05:54 PM	#12
benvvc Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: west midlands Posts: 155 Subframe: Watson CC: 1800 Make: Rover ECU: standard	Thanks

21-07-2019, 04:08 PM	#13
Adamrichards Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2016 Posts: 4	Few pics from the progress nothing much but can see that a 25mm spaces needed to stop the arm drifting using mini shaft Also I have ground down some of the casting Mark's that stopped it from having a smooth movement also shaved a light bit off the knuckle joint cup and that also rubs but only a couple of MM Just need a stub axle and she will be also complete Only other issue I have seen is i have rover metro arms I believe thay use a diffrent knuckle joint this doesn't fit inside the HI low shafts of my not 100% how I'm going to get round this yet need to see if mini ones will fit Or maybe have to get my hands on Austin metro arms instead Sent from my SM-N960F using Tapatalk