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Old 02-12-2019, 09:44 PM   #31
Mini Vvc
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I decided to contour the bulk head to match the VVC inlet so that there is enough room for the engine to move a bit when running.

First I marked up where I needed the contour to be

IMG_20191012_140252 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

I then removed material in a curve by drilling holes and filing between them to give a slot

IMG_20191012_141618 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

I then hammered the bulkhead back along the line of the slot and welded it back together

IMG_20191012_142128 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

I then ground back the weld to finish the job. It just needs painted when all other mods to the front end are complete.

IMG_20191012_143008 by Tim Wells, on Flickr
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Old 02-12-2019, 10:03 PM   #32
Mini Vvc
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I needed to swap the pulley from the original Rover alternator to the new Denso one that I got from a Suzuki Swift (around year 2000). Thankfully the pulleys came off both alternators freely. I knew that was too easy as the Rover pulley was too big to fit properly on the Denso alternator!

IMG_20190704_195329 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

My Dad has a lathe so I used it to turn down the inside of the Rover pulley to take a bush.

IMG_20191120_190933 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

I then made a bush and pressed this into the Rover pulley

IMG_20191121_102044 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

I also made a spacer to keep the pulley away from the Denso alternator body.

IMG_20191120_161710 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

Last edited by Mini Vvc; 03-12-2019 at 10:32 PM.
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:04 PM   #33
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CJ didn't come with any sort of gear change mechanism. Or I haven't found it in the pile of bits yet anyway. I did find one one on a metro which looked like it had the same mounting points and was in good condition. I fitted that so I have at least something to work with /modify to fit to the PG1 box. I've never had to connect up a gear linkage before but it doesnt look too bad for connecting.

IMG_20191124_183153 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

New linkage installed

IMG_20191124_202243 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

I like the knob and gaiter as it has the extra "5th" gear marked on. Plus reverse is in the right place too. It will be one of the only hints that there is something special under the bonnet. Does need a bit of a clean though!

IMG_20191124_201928 by Tim Wells, on Flickr
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:19 PM   #34
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The front end still wasnt fitting correctly so there was some more trimming of the original subframe and rearranging of the drivers side engine mount (several times )

IMG_20191001_152939 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

IMG_20191001_153005 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

Using a die grinder I also modified the front end to stop it from hitting on the cam cover as that was my biggest issue. Trimming the cam cover would have solved the problem but I really wanted to keep the cam cover. Eventually after lots and lots of front on/front off, engine mount up/down, back and forward I found a position that was working - Hooray Its pretty tight but its in! The bonnet will cover all the trimming of the front end thankfully.

IMG_20191121_140459 by Tim Wells, on Flickr
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:35 PM   #35
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Next was trying to get the exhaust to fit in the gap between the engine and the fibreglass front end. As much as I hoped that the standard manifold would fit - it didnt! Therefore it was time to start modifying that. The drivers side engine mount was pretty sturdy but the passenger side / gearbox mount wasn't as solid as it needed to be. I needed to remove the front bar so I could work out how to fit the exhaust manifold. So I added a "wing" to the passenger side which joined the gearbox mount to the suspension mounting points. This was done with steel plate and firmly tacked in place. This made the gearbox mount really solid and will probably be helpful for adding in support for other engine ancillaries at a later date. I didn't bother cutting down any of the plate as it will probably be heavily modified as time goes by. I then removed the front bar.

IMG_20191121_222448 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

When the frame is finished additional bracing / seam welding, trimming, ect will all take place to strengthen and tidy up the finished frame.

IMG_20191121_222434 by Tim Wells, on Flickr
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Old 03-12-2019, 02:56 PM   #36
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Quite a lot had to be removed from the exhaust manifold to get it to fit in the space available. Around 25mm was removed in total. Here you can see before the last section was removed.

IMG_20191122_150754 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

You can see in this next picture that cylinders 2,3 and 4 match up quite well with the 25mm removed but cylinder 1 is quite far away.

IMG_20191122_154022 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

Thankfully I had 2 x VVC exhaust manifolds. So I was able to chop out a section of the spare manifold and then cut a bigger piece out of cylinder 1 on the modified manifold and weld in the section to get the manifold to match up much better to cylinder 1.

IMG_20191122_173442 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

Then after that it was a weld-athon to get the manifold all sealed up. I only could weld a little at a time as I didn't want to warp the sealing face. Eventually got it done. I was really pleased that I was able to keep the exhaust lambda sensor in the original place without fouling on the engine

IMG_20191122_221752 by Tim Wells, on Flickr
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Old 03-12-2019, 03:54 PM   #37
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That's some substantial metal in there and a really tight fit.
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Old 03-12-2019, 10:04 PM   #38
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Thanks Ronski - she is a tight fit!

Here is the original Mini exhaust vs the Rover 200 Vi exhaust after modification. A bit of a difference.

IMG_20191123_022657 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

Also a picture of the exhaust mounted after the modification, with the front crossmember removed. Once the front mounted items (exhaust, alternator, radiator, etc) are installed I can then make the new crossmember.

IMG_20191126_012559 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

I just got hold of some deburring tools from my Dad that he used to modify the cylinder head and ancillaries on his Triumph Dolomite many moons ago. I'm hoping to use them to bore out the exhaust manifold now that it has been welded on the outside. As standard they are welded on the inside that restricts the flow. So hopefully unleash a few extra horses, or recover the ones lost by slightly shortening the primaries of the exhaust. (The primaries are the first branch of the exhaust manifold before the next branches, etc. eg 4-2-1. Thats something I only just learnt. I didn't have a clue when people were talking about primaries - I thought they were on about the gearing. I have a Vespa and primaries are part of the gearing that affects all gears!)

IMG_20191123_192003 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

Hopefully boring out the manifold will help anyway. I will also use engineers blue to mark up the outlet to the manifold and get them matching up. The same will be of the inlet too. Every little helps
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Old 03-12-2019, 10:25 PM   #39
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Another modification which is still in progress is the lower engine steady. To be able to fit the original Rover 200 engine steady to the bottom of the engine I had to trim about 10mm from the top of it. The picture below shows it just before I finished cutting the 10mm from the top section, this still managed to keep the bolt holes in an uncut condition.

IMG_20191126_015137 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

I kept the original top engine steady that came with the original mini engine as it had been rebuilt with new silicone bushes and repainted and looked way too good to let it go with the engine when I sold it. Thankfully it appears to be the perfect size to fit nicely to the Rover 200 mount and then join on to the original Mini front subframe at a suitable point. I will strengthen that area even more thean it currently is to ensure it is fine. But it should give that "factory" look.

IMG_20191126_015654 by Tim Wells, on Flickr
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Old 04-12-2019, 08:48 PM   #40
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Something else that needed modified to fit within the standard roundnose front end was the water outlet of the engine. The original one that came with the engine from the Rover 200 was a straight one that would have protruded out the front of the car when the water pipes were fitted. I was lucky and was able to find a 45 degreee one from a Rover Metro/100. Unfortunatly the Metro outlet is designed without the VVC cams in mind so would protrude into the cams area. Therefore neither was suitable for the mini so I chopped up both to make a suitable outlet. I used the 45 degree outlet from the Metro as the main part but chopped off the temp sensor and made up an alloy plug to blank that off. I then cut off the section of the standard Rover 200 water outlet where the sensors were and profiled it so that it would fit on to the body of the Metro outlet. I then drilled a new hole in the Metro outlet and welded the sensor section of the Rover 200 outlet to it. I would like to say that I welded all the aluminium myself but I haven't got the equipment for that. So I took it to a place near me and they welded it all for 20.

Below shows it mounted to the engine in position prior to welding with the molegrips holding it in place.

IMG_20191125_233637 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

Here it is after welding all in place

IMG_20191126_143959 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

Finally with it in place on the engine showing the different locations of the outlet and sensor positions. Unfortunatly I didnt take a "before" picture.

IMG_20191126_144510 by Tim Wells, on Flickr
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Old 04-12-2019, 09:02 PM   #41
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Below is a picture I took that shows everything else that still needs to "sink" into the bonnet area (Somehow!)

IMG_20191123_034726 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

The work from the last couple of weeks is all in the recent posts and this was completed whilst my wife and little boy were away in Germany for a couple of weeks. I stayed behind and got the work done in the evenings and my days off. Progress will surely slow down now as I'm off to Germany too! In fact i'm updating this build diary from the East of Germany! Then when I get back it will be xmas, new year, etc. So the next update will probably be in the New Year. So I wish all you Happy Christmas and a Good New Year and look forward to seeing how everyone elses builds progress in that time. I will plug away at little bits but there wont be many jumps forward. Have a good one everybody!!v
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