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Old 15-04-2018, 06:12 PM   #271
gadget555
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My car developed an annoying extra vibration and rattling the other night while I was out embarrassing some of the local boy racers in their Corsa vxr's and Fiesta st's
Anyway when I put it back into the garage and tried to locate the noise (it sounded like a twin plate clutch) I found that it had snapped one of the alternator adjuster bolts which is one of these of the good old bay of E, https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MGTF-MG-T...0AAOSw1x1UOlZl
It was a clean break, not stretched or anything, the split in the thread is where I held it in the vice trying to get the easy out out of it.

IMG_3682 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

IMG_3703 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

The thing is it has 10.9 on the bolt head!

IMG_3704 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

I have bought 2 12.9 cap head's so I'll be fitting one of them instead when they arrive.
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Old 15-04-2018, 06:16 PM   #272
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It may well be 10.9 but the quality of bolts can very considerably
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Old 15-04-2018, 06:28 PM   #273
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Yeah I thought that my self when I looked at the bolt! There's nothing to say that the new one's I've ordered are going to be any better! but I can only try them.
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Old 15-04-2018, 06:50 PM   #274
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This may or may not be something to consider.

I have slowed my alternator down by fitting a pulley on twice the normal size, so the alternator spins at only half the normal speed. This in turn reduces the vibration.

I have snapped two bottom brackets, two top brackets and also had the same bolt snap as you. Far too many people under estimate how fast they spin!

I have no issues using the larger pulley.
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Last edited by AGoaty; 15-04-2018 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 15-04-2018, 07:21 PM   #275
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Where did you get the pulley from Andy? The funny thing is that even with the bolt snapped the alternator hadn't moved and it was still charging.
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Old 15-04-2018, 08:09 PM   #276
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Was looking good today.

Last edited by Ken555; 16-04-2018 at 03:03 PM.
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Old 16-04-2018, 08:00 AM   #277
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Item number 222493085717.

Obviously you need a longer belt too. Mine is a 730mm which is the standard belt for a MG F.
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Old 16-04-2018, 10:27 AM   #278
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I'm using a small Denso alternator, so I'll have to take it off and measure the shaft diameter and length.
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Old 16-04-2018, 01:42 PM   #279
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Proper qweer how to them K chew brackets,
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Old 16-04-2018, 02:06 PM   #280
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Ken, that link won't work.


Quote:
Originally Posted by gadget555 View Post
I'm using a small Denso alternator, so I'll have to take it off and measure the shaft diameter and length.
Oh right. I have looked through your build but cannot find a pic of the top alternator bracket. If the top bracket has a bolt not supported at both ends like the original one has, then that's your problem. As you know the two top brackets I had were designed like that. They cannot hold the bolt straight and this in turn means the alternator will flex, only a tiny amount but will lead to more breakages.

Silly question but won't a standard alternator fit? It does on mine with a good amount of clearance from the front panel.
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Last edited by AGoaty; 16-04-2018 at 02:10 PM.
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Old 16-04-2018, 02:58 PM   #281
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Is it just the smaller alternators that suffer from this flex?

I dont hear it happening on mgfs
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Old 16-04-2018, 03:08 PM   #282
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edk83 View Post
Is it just the smaller alternators that suffer from this flex?



I dont hear it happening on mgfs


Nope, Andrew uses a regular alternator and Iíve never had an issue with my little Denso.
Usually slight misalignment causing vibrations or poor fabrication is the biggest killer of brackets.
The small Denso is significantly smaller and lighter so wonít put anywhere near as much strain on a bracket as the standard one but if itís not lined up right or if itís tensioned within an inch of its life then itís going to start causing an issue


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Quote:
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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it

Last edited by InstantCustard; 16-04-2018 at 03:13 PM.
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Old 16-04-2018, 03:19 PM   #283
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Thereís s good chance itís just a poor quality bolt and nothing more.


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Quote:
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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it
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Old 16-04-2018, 04:37 PM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGoaty View Post
Ken, that link won't work.




Oh right. I have looked through your build but cannot find a pic of the top alternator bracket. If the top bracket has a bolt not supported at both ends like the original one has, then that's your problem. As you know the two top brackets I had were designed like that. They cannot hold the bolt straight and this in turn means the alternator will flex, only a tiny amount but will lead to more breakages.

Silly question but won't a standard alternator fit? It does on mine with a good amount of clearance from the front panel.
You can see the end of the alternator & bracket here in this one and the adjuster that I'm using. The bolt snapped at the end of the spacer where it meets the block, fortunately there is a O-ring in the end of the spacer so it kept it all together and I didn't loose anything.

Cambelt & water pump change 3 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

Here you can see the Denso alternator and the angle iron bracket above it, that the bolt locates at each end. I borrowed a set of pulley alignment laser's from work to make sure the the pulleys were inline before finally welding the bracket up.

Radiator by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

With the standard bracket & alternator on it's into the front panel & I had got the Denso alternator a while ago so I used this one instead of the heavier original one.
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Old 22-04-2018, 02:19 PM   #285
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And the car duth protest again! O/S engine mount has decided that it no longer needs the oil damper to be inside of it.

IMG_3706 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

The N/S top ball joint cover has perished and split in half (crap rubber)

IMG_3712 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

N/S outer cv boot has been rubbing on the hub (ignore the gap on the driveshaft it was when I was taking it apart) These were new boots prior to it going on the road.

IMG_3713 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

And the gearbox has decided that it didn't want to keep all the oil inside, again when I rebuilt the gearbox it has had all new seals and up rated bearings fitted.

IMG_3714 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

IMG_3715 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

IMG_3717 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

IMG_3718 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

So out came the engine and box for a bit of open heart surgery!

IMG_3716 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

With the gearbox tilted up you can see a dripper forming from the input shaft seal.

IMG_3719 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

So I've stripped the box and checked the the input shaft and the O/S drive shaft as this also had slight weep and can't see anything wrong with them, no burs, grooves or scratches, so I'm at a loose as to why they have started to leak within such a short while of being built/driven?

IMG_3720 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

IMG_3721 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

Although I've only done 500 mile since getting it on the road the gearbox oil was quiet dark from the yellowish colour that went in and there is a slight build up on the magnet but nothing gritty just a fine like past.

IMG_3722 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

So new parts that have been ordered, gearbox seals, 2 new Nankang ns2r's, and a few other bits & bobs. One of the winter changes that I was going to do is change the Mini rack for a MG TF one to eliminate the bump steer that I have with using the mini rack and the Watsons rack extenders but seeing as I have the engine out I may as well do it now just trying to source the passenger side rack mount off a metro or mgf as these are no longer available and any breakers on flea bay just sling them as they don't see as anyone needing them. I have messaged a couple of people on the metro selling pages who are breaking there cars but still waiting for them to get back to me
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