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Old 30-06-2019, 07:58 PM   #16
Mini Vvc
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This is the winch setup that I have for getting the engine into position. At first I just had the winch attached to the roof but that meant I could only go up and down. If I wanted the engine out of the way to work on it then the car had to be moved. Instead I installed a bar that I can slide the winch along, so that the engine can be slid forward and dropped down in front of the car when required.

Agoaty had mentioned about it being a pain with all the winching. The winching isn't too bad as its geared to make it easy. The hardest part is man handling the engine over the front of the subframe (as it sits about 1" too high). Dropping the car or raising the roof would make this better but unfortunatly neither is possible.

The upside is working on the car is much better than down on the ground for every task and it saves on a gym membership!

IMG_20190623_092750 by Tim Wells, on Flickr
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Old 30-06-2019, 08:02 PM   #17
Mini Vvc
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[QUOTE=InstantCustard;385923]If you want to protect your shiny new tank from future rusting issues then I recommend POR15 tank sealer, it future proofs the steel tank from the higher amounts of ethanol they put in modern fuels from rusting the tank, not an issue with modern plastic tanks, but will cause issues for our classics.

Thanks, I didn't realise about the modern fuels causing problems with the old steel tanks. I will have to check that product out
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Old 30-06-2019, 08:08 PM   #18
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I was trial fitting the front and bonnet to see how much space I had to play with. It looks a lot inside.....until you stick a 16v engine in there!

IMG_20190622_211303 by Tim Wells, on Flickr
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Old 30-06-2019, 08:17 PM   #19
Mini Vvc
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I cleaned up the engine number and it reads 18K4KK67 which seems to be a bit of a mystery engine which isn't really listed anywhere. Some things point to it being perhaps a Lotus engine, others parts of the code (when not a vvc) means that it is a "service stripped" engine. My brother bought the engine 2nd hand and fitted it to the car after the previous one was blown so unsure what it came out of. It did seem pretty quick and used to beat other cars which also had the same vvc engine too, so fingers crossed it's maybe something special!
Or perhaps "service stripped" means years of apprentices have taken it to bits then put it back together!!

Anybody seen this code before?

IMAG0692 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

Last edited by Mini Vvc; 30-06-2019 at 08:31 PM.
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Old 01-07-2019, 01:06 PM   #20
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From what I gather it is a service replacement engine and Rover being Rover used whatever was in the parts bins to build these engines.
There’s a chance it’s a standard 143 VVC as it’s supposed to be but there’s also a chance they used parts from the 160 engine to build it or better still all 160 parts if any of the standard parts weren’t available at the time.
Unfortunately without stripping the head off and visually inspecting parts you’ll never know for sure, especially the valve seats!
Does the throttle body have a circle with 52 on the outer edge where it bolts to the plenum?
There’s a good chance the pistons will be too dirty to see the 160 stamped onto the piston tops by looking through the plug holes, but if you can think of a way of getting something in there to scrape away at the coke and have a bore scope then it’s possible!



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Old 01-07-2019, 01:44 PM   #21
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My Rover 200 Vi was also a quick car which was why I bought it as donor.

The C4, open diff box helped it accelerate quicker than the BRM with same engine and B6 ratio with Torsen LSD.

Mine had the 52mm throttle body, no CAT with an adjustable fuel regulator it made 160bhp on the rollers. Even when stripped (photos are in my build somewhere) there was no evidence of modification. The 160 piston is only a thicker top casting. The physical outer dimensions are identical and so give no performance gain whatsoever. They are meant to be more reliable but unless you have over 180bhp I cannot see any gain.

As for being a Lotus, don't let Garv see it. He'll be all over this like a rash.
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Old 03-07-2019, 05:25 PM   #22
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Have a read here, it has some good info on it.
http://www.mgfregister.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=22148
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Old 04-07-2019, 11:48 AM   #23
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Hi, Thanks everyone for the posts. My engine has the 48mm plastic throttle body (but I think with the inlet it was swapped from the original engine).

The website you suggested did give some interesting info thanks gadget, although I had read it already.

I managed to find some info on a German website that sells rover engines and parts. They list an engine from a rover 400 Tourer (XW) as having the code 18k4kk67 with 146hp. Not quite 160hp but 3 more than normal!

https://www.meyermotoren.de/Katalogs...667&LfdNr=8169

I'll just have to hope it's a similar engine to the one agoaty had. (You don't know the code of it do you?)

It doesn't really matter too much what the code means as this is the only engine I've got and it's the one that's going in. Plus it's got memories for me of hooning around with it when it was still in the donor Rover 200 when I was 19 beating all my friends in their 1.0 L Corsa's!

Last edited by Mini Vvc; 04-07-2019 at 07:58 PM.
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Old 04-07-2019, 09:12 PM   #24
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So the next part of the conversion all happened in just a few days as I took my wife and little boy over to Germany for a couple of weeks to stay with the inlaws and brush up on their German. I stayed long enough to brush up on beer drinking and German sausage eating skills!

I had everything prepped for the work (garage tidy, plenty of grinding and cutting discs, plenty of welding wire, etc.) Unfortunatly I did have other jobs to do on our other business vehicles but several days were set aside for pure mini time.

The aim was to complete making the frame so that it would support the engine in the correct position. I had lots of issues with setting the tracking of the car whilst doing this as I found that any adjustments to the frame adjusted the track of the car. I was forever "tracking" the car using a laser spirit level. To do this I was adjusting the frame not the track rod ends. When the engine is mounted I wanted the tracking adjustment to be in the middle of the range so that if it needs much adjusting then there is movement either way.

IMG_20190623_102944 by Tim Wells, on Flickr
Setting the steering wheel position so it is exactly in the middle of the total range of the wheel. Using an angle guage I made up for doing port timings on my vespa engine.

My biggest fear for the project is torque steer. From what I have read it seems to have finished some people's project when they can't live with the terrible torque steer. To try and prevent it I want to keep most steering and suspension parts in their original positions plus I am trying to make equal length driveshafts. To do this I have a half shaft from a MG ZS 180 that also has the PG1 box. It was a bit of a gamble when I got it, but figured I could mount it "somehow". When it arrived I tried it on the back of the engine and it fits in the PG1 box and it looked like a bolthole on the back of the engine does line up. On the MG ZS it was bolted to the back of the engine so I plan to do the same. I will have to make up some sort of substantial bracket to attach the other mounting points then use 1/2 of the MG ZS drive shaft joined to the original mini shaft. Hopefully the shafts will then be much closer to being equal length instead of the one big and one small setup most conversions have.

IMG_20190704_195251 by Tim Wells, on Flickr
The MG ZS 180 half shaft

Also to try and prevent torque steer and unusual handling I wanted the weight of the engine evenly distributed so tried to find the balance point of the engine. From what I could see it's at the point where the permanent marker is on the engine (showing : 1/2) in line with the 2nd from right exhaust stud. So my aim is to get this as close to the centre of the car as possible.

IMG_20190624_183023 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

So after a couple of days, lots of swearing, thinking it would never fit I eventually got it in.

IMG_20190623_225728 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

I was pretty excited and couldn't wait to try the front on. I couldnt try it before as the ratchet straps I had used to level the engine were in the way.

IMG_20190623_225548 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

Unfortunatly it didn't quite fit perfectly as the front end was catching on the cam cover. I thought about cutting the cam cover but really didn't want to do this as it didn't seem quite right. I want the finished car to look professional. It was only catching a little but I think there is still space to tilt the engine very slightly further back (and lower if needed). How close is everyone elses vvc inlet to the mini bulkhead?

IMG_20190623_225555 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

IMG_20190623_225516 by Tim Wells, on Flickr

The frame is not going to be the final product. I will use the current frame to make a frame with many less pieces welded together and a much more fluid design. It will be a bit of a Trigger's brush (from Only fools and horses) where I will replace all the bits until eventually it is a new frame. Once that is done I will remove the frame and correctly weld and plate all the seams.

I'm not sure how quick things will progress now that my wife and little fella are back home as it is fun spending time with them too. Although my little guy loves CJ the mini and always wanting to "fix mini!" which is why it took me 2 hours to find the 1/2" drive socket that I needed when he had put it on one of the rear wheel studs!

I feel that CJ the mini has taken a jump forward at the moment so I will be able to chip away at smaller jobs when I have a spare hour or two so will probably focus on some of these smaller jobs at the moment. But I will keep this build diary updated as things progress.

Last edited by Mini Vvc; 04-07-2019 at 09:18 PM.
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Old 05-07-2019, 06:45 AM   #25
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Mine sits back enough that a small notch had to made in the bulkhead for the left hand runner on the inlet manifold for clearance.
I had a cutout of the timing cover, my engine sits in a similar position to yours but is higher, there is space between the timing belt and cover so it is possible to make a cover that fits closer, I also have a corner ground off the valve cover to clear the wing, it’s possible to do this by just grinding it off as it has a piece of webbing on the underside that keeps it sealed and you just need to grind back to that.

I wouldn’t pay too much attention to the “torque steer” a lot of it is improper geometry setup or frame issues and not actual torque steer, sometimes it’s exaggerated by a Torsen diff as this passes power from one side to the next in order to try and get the power to the ground.
Make sure your frame is strong with plenty of bracing and that lower arms and tie rods are as close as possible to being in the original position and you’ll be fine.


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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it
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Old 05-07-2019, 08:34 AM   #26
Mini Vvc
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Hi custard, thanks for the tips and picture. Any chance you could post a picture of the back of your engine showing the gap between the inlet and the bulkhead and where you have made your cutout. If so that would be great thanks.
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Old 05-07-2019, 08:44 AM   #27
InstantCustard
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I’ll try and find an old one, I have Jenvey throttle bodies now and plenty of clearance compared to the old inlet and plenum.


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Quote:
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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ardonfast View Post
Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it
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Old 05-07-2019, 11:55 AM   #28
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There are some great photos on here

https://www.16vminiclub.com/showthre...?t=5992&page=3

a third of the way down the page but the PB logo obscures all but the one I've posted
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Old 05-07-2019, 06:54 PM   #29
Mini Vvc
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Thanks for the link Oz. That's looking a lot closer to the bulkhead than mine! I think I will have to have a go at shifting the engine back a bit. How is everyone's engine for sitting straight in the car. I feel like the left side of the engine could move back bit, but may struggle with the right side hitting the steering rack.
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