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Old 10-07-2018, 02:08 PM   #166
ardonfast
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I'm not believing that vid eather!
I'm prepared to admit I'm out of date lol
But I'm not able to just believe claims that are way above the norm,
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Old 14-07-2018, 10:42 AM   #167
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Skip to about 50 seconds in on that vid. Dyno numbers are a bit abstract and hard to believe, but watching an 8 second quarter mile is pretty conclusive! 1400hp from a 2 litre B series.

Sorry to push your thread further off topic Andrew!
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Old 14-07-2018, 11:44 AM   #168
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It's gets worse lol , yes sorry Andrew, but we'll I never,
Well this happened in 1983 , pulling you leg Paul,
https://youtu.be/TmKynWXqxTw
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"yuck ,more like a 3 r2"
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=tb261HwQNDQ
SAY WHAT YOU BELEVE,,BELEVE WHAT YOU LIKE,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=3JhaTwP7uuk

Last edited by ardonfast; 14-07-2018 at 11:53 AM.
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Old 14-07-2018, 05:56 PM   #169
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It's gets worse lol , yes sorry Andrew, but we'll I never,
Well this happened in 1983 , pulling you leg Paul,
https://youtu.be/TmKynWXqxTw


Anyway, back to the topic at hand. I don't know enough about turbocharged systems to offer much advice, but will be reading along as you learn.
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Old 15-07-2018, 11:25 AM   #170
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Back on topic!

Been to see the guy this week who's welding it. He's done the 4 corners where the subframe mounts are. He's cut them away and rebuilt them. The heal board has been cut and replaced where it's rotten. Rear valance patched.

He decided to check the rest of the shell. He put a small hole in the drivers side floor just next to the crossmember. This needs plating. He also said the channel along the floor going to it has cracked so this needs replacing too.

He has run out of gas so it's going to be another week or so before it's ready to collect. I told him to take his time but I'm glad it's moving along faster than I hoped.

I was on my way to work so didn't take any pictures I'm afraid.
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Old 15-07-2018, 01:15 PM   #171
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Nice suprise to read he is tucking in allready, I thought he was going to be a yourkshire man working on Devon time,
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Old 19-07-2018, 08:08 PM   #172
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Good to see you've decided to carry on, I always wanted to do a rwd on a mini, shame we live so far away, would've been great to help out.
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Old 13-08-2018, 06:49 AM   #173
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Got Scorpion back now. Quite pleased with the work he's done but I have to say it will never be mint. He commented about he'd seen better shells in the scrapyard.

Anyway, so he's made it all solid again. All 4 corners where the subframe mounts are have been completely removed. The plates he's made are 2mm thick steel. It's folded over the top of each so is double thickness and then seam welded into the car. The tops are now sloping do the water will run off rather than sit there like it had before.









The heal board was rotten. This has been cut away and replaced.



Quite a few places the weld on the inside of the car had blown holes in the outside. These have been tidied up and a bit of filler added to make it look right.



He's also had to patch the drivers floor and both side sill ends towards the back of the car.

Obviously it's just got red oxide paint on at the moment. My plan is to use the stove/BBQ paint inside the engine bay. It does get hot inside there. I think that hasn't helped when it was done the first time around.
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Old 13-08-2018, 12:19 PM   #174
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Great to see the shell back. Looking forward to the rebuild
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Old 13-08-2018, 04:48 PM   #175
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Looking good Andy! onward's & upwards.
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Old 12-09-2018, 12:49 PM   #176
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I haven't forgotten about this but have to admit, it's taken a sideline again.

I changed my plan for the gearbox. Having seen the huge torque figures produced by the turbo engine I realised that it doesn't need to be as low geared as a VVC. I opted to get the C6 ratios. Being me chose to get the U spec version as is meant to be stronger internally. Then the fact I have had experience of the diff bearings collapsing, thought the steel caged versions were a good upgrade.

In order to use this setup means using a ZS 180 box but swapping the bellhousing over for the K4 engine.



After a lot of debate, I have chosen to keep the open diff. I hope the car will lift at the front when accelerating and push down the rear and so not be an issue. I am using 195 wide tyres so there will be quite a lot of grip from them!

I am currently stripping the rear suspension. The amount of seized items is very frustrating. Every job just takes hours to complete.

A trip to Mini Sport proved quite worth while. Managed to get a full set of Spax Krypton adjustable shock absorbers that were second hand but never been on the road for £80.



Also a pair of brand new bumpers with a tiny mark on each for £20 due to the damage.
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Old 12-09-2018, 01:59 PM   #177
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I remember having a read on the Elise forums about whether an LSD is a good idea in the RWD setup. There was a lot of talk of finding ditches!
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Old 12-09-2018, 02:15 PM   #178
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I remember having a read on the Elise forums about whether an LSD is a good idea in the RWD setup. There was a lot of talk of finding ditches!
Certainly for getting used to driving it an open diff is a better starter as too much throttle in a corner will likely just cause the inside wheel to light up
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Old 12-09-2018, 03:18 PM   #179
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As Iíve mentioned to Andrew, Quaife actually make a diff which is designed for rear engined cars like the Elise etc.


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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it
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Old 12-09-2018, 03:20 PM   #180
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Has a 23 degree helix angle
https://shop.quaife.co.uk/lotus-elis...d-differential


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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it
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