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Old 25-04-2012, 06:34 PM   #31
InstantCustard
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Never arc welded before, probably better off sticking with the mig and a sleeve. Unless you wanna do it? I could pay you in fibreglass seats?!
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Old 25-04-2012, 06:41 PM   #32
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Looks to me like its been rubbing on the casing as there is another polished bit of shaft on the bit that is still in the gear box. Are they sleeved shafts?

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Old 25-04-2012, 06:44 PM   #33
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Never arc welded before, probably better off sticking with the mig and a sleeve. Unless you wanna do it? I could pay you in fibreglass seats?!
I dont mind doing it, either arc or mig, not done arc for a while though

What does your MIG go up to power wise?
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Old 25-04-2012, 06:46 PM   #34
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Its just been rubbing from where its dropped down since snapping.
The passenger side shaft is sleeved but this one wasn't, looks like its had a male and female thread machined to each end of the shaft and then screwed together, but never welded, going to try and weld the seam between the 2 shafts and then sleeve and weld, it'll do until I can afford some billet shafts.
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Old 25-04-2012, 06:49 PM   #35
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Its just been rubbing from where its dropped down since snapping.
The passenger side shaft is sleeved but this one wasn't, looks like its had a male and female thread machined to each end of the shaft and then screwed together, but never welded, going to try and weld the seam between the 2 shafts and then sleeve and weld, it'll do until I can afford some billet shafts.
Sounds good i would pin it as well to eliminate a bit of twist.

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Old 25-04-2012, 06:57 PM   #36
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Sounds good i would pin it as well to eliminate a bit of twist.

Paul
If you need some steel for pin, let me know
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Old 25-04-2012, 06:59 PM   #37
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I dont mind doing it, either arc or mig, not done arc for a while though

What does your MIG go up to power wise?
Will have to double check what it goes upto, think its somewhere around 200 amps, I've only had it on power setting 3 for panels on my old shell, and I think I only cranked it up to about midway for 10mm steel.
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Old 25-04-2012, 07:00 PM   #38
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Sounds good i would pin it as well to eliminate a bit of twist.

Paul
Gonna sound like a right dick but nevermind.
Pin?
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Old 25-04-2012, 07:08 PM   #39
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It was the first thing I broke I sleaved the passenger when I broke that one. The drivers had been holding out
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Old 25-04-2012, 07:16 PM   #40
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Gonna sound like a right dick but nevermind.
Pin?
Drill through the shaft and the sleeve on both side of where its cut and then put a pin though it. You can weld the pin in as well

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Old 25-04-2012, 07:26 PM   #41
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Thanks Paul.
Hi Stu, glad its the shaft if I'm honest, I don't have to drop the box out now!
Hoping to cheat and weld it in situ.
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Old 25-04-2012, 07:31 PM   #42
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dan, for what its worth (20 mins work?) to get it out, its not worth trying to weld that in situ, you will never manage to weld that good enough upside down, will be a pain to drill for a pin and also to grind the inital weld back to put the sleeve over.
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Old 25-04-2012, 07:34 PM   #43
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Thanks Paul.
Hi Stu, glad its the shaft if I'm honest, I don't have to drop the box out now!
Hoping to cheat and weld it in situ.
Are talking about welding the drive shaft where it is How will you know its straight? Its got to be worth dropping the gearbox oil and getting the shaft out on a bench where you can see what your doing?

I have to agree though i bet you have never been happier to see a broken drive shaft Has got to the better of the other choices

Paul
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Old 25-04-2012, 07:36 PM   #44
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Who said anything about being upside down? Gonna stick it up on a ramp and do it, I don't really want to drain the box if I can help it, there ain't much room to get in and fill it back up again.
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I love it
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Old 25-04-2012, 07:38 PM   #45
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It's snapped in such a way that there is still a male and female part on each shaft that still allow it to line up.
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I love it
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