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Old 04-10-2010, 11:00 PM   #31
dizzie
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it is somthing i have been thinking about, the way i was thinking is that il beef up the mount on to the block witha couple of gussets and the one on to the subby is rubber mouted it should be alright.

what do you recon? or do you think its worth mounting the side thats on the subby at the moment on to the box insted?
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Old 06-10-2010, 08:24 AM   #32
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builds looking good fella!

where did you get the idea for the coilover mounts? been pondering over how strong it would be there as its only a thin bit of steel :S

might pop over this weekend if ur not too hungover?
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Old 06-10-2010, 05:33 PM   #33
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cheers bud,

as in the top or bottom mounts? well the top mounts and bottom are both the mini spares ones and im using mini top arms. borrowed the idea from matts build.

haha well i might be hung over but il try and work on it all week end any way.
so yer drop us a line
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Old 06-10-2010, 10:49 PM   #34
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for the sake of tidyness if sent the pipes that go to and from the header tank through the bulk head.
and if your looking for somthing that works brillent as pipe and wiring grommets are the little grommets that youd use in steel back boxes for plug sockets and light switches, cut to size and stuck in place with a drop of glue



ran out of rubber elbows so got out some 15mm copper stuff.









as you can see here i put the heater/header tank pipes the wrong way round.
i have since swaped them over using some more 15mm copper. thought it would have been a pain after putting the inlet back on but only took 5 minutes






the heater feed straight back through the bulkhead and over the top of the heat and back on its self into it.
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Old 06-10-2010, 10:58 PM   #35
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i made a bleed point on the top of the rad because i didnt put the bleed pipe that goes up to the header tank high enough because i decided it would have looked a bit bananas. i know what a tart haha

i just used a 1/8th" brass bleed valve that youd have on a home radiator.



drilled a i think it was 9.5mil hole so the valve would thread into the plastic
and put solvent cement round all the tread so it would seal well.





does the trick and hasnt leaked
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Old 10-10-2010, 11:24 AM   #36
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looking good work so far dizzie, but whats happened to your coilovers? they look like they are about to fall off
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Old 10-10-2010, 06:48 PM   #37
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cheers for the help today bud. all the niggley bits iv been thrashing my head at everytime i go to draw up the mounting ideas were sorted!

the website i was on about for the guides on engine work is

http://forums.mg-rover.org/showthread.php?t=210613

if you have a search through there it has a page full of pictures of sensors, the lamba sensor mod and loads of other stuff.
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Old 13-10-2010, 08:33 PM   #38
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dont worry they wont... i hope! haha. i just hadnt got any bushes to stop them from moving sideways. ive bought some and now they arnt all over. just need to put a couple washers in to move it away from the sides of the top mount, as i think under full compresion the coil will hit the mount.






i picture of the seats im gona put in, keeping with the hole black/yellow theme



williams 4 point harnesses, with 2" straps
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Old 13-10-2010, 08:36 PM   #39
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and yer any time kieran, always good to help!

cheers for that, il have a cheeky browse through it
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:23 PM   #40
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hi every one, ive been a bit lazy of late so havnt got round to updating.
have been working on it tho.

gearbox side steady


engine side i cut down a steady i had off the 200 maby? and re drilled


for the bracket i choped up the 200s gearbox mount and welded onto the frame with a captive nut on





the weldings not prety because i did it while the engine was in on my back. but its strong
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Old 08-11-2010, 11:41 PM   #41
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the rear drums that was on it when i got it were knackered. back plates were rusted through and adjusters siezed, and the drums were cracked.
so bought a pair in much better condition.

bolted those on..




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Old 08-11-2010, 11:51 PM   #42
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finaly got round to the rear valence. im not going to put in closing panels for the valence and scuttle. ive been thinking of fiberglassing either a peice of shaped metal into them or shaped fiberglass so there are no gaps and i dont burn paint off inside. any opinions?


must of taken an hour to get it in a perfect position, but i am pedantic







and this is the very last peice of rust on the car!!!!!!


i dont have any finished photos tho
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Old 01-02-2011, 08:16 PM   #43
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hi every one ive just remmeber that did update to let any one know whats new.

im over in america for a few months and will be back march.

and as soon as i got out here it suddenly dawned on me that in my rush to pack the car away i forgot to drain the water out and because i was only checking for leaks ect i didnt put in any antifreeze!!!
so il have to wait till march to check if anythings damaged.

cheers
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Old 02-03-2011, 12:27 AM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dizzie View Post
hi every one ive just remmeber that did update to let any one know whats new.

im over in america for a few months and will be back march.

and as soon as i got out here it suddenly dawned on me that in my rush to pack the car away i forgot to drain the water out and because i was only checking for leaks ect i didnt put in any antifreeze!!!
so il have to wait till march to check if anythings damaged.

cheers
so when u back ........ and back on the mini...????
hope nothin too bad has happend due to no antifreeze fingers crossed and hope all will be ok
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Old 02-03-2011, 12:47 AM   #45
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i actualy got back this morning! havent slept for 36 hours but im not tired for some reason??

i think im gona go out and have a day on it this week to check whether any things damaged, i hope not! i could do without any set backs.

im hoping that i can get it mot'ed and on the road for this summer.

and i still have loads of photos to put up of stuff i got done before december.
il get them up soon, might put a few up tonight as in my head its 5.45pm, so im more or less awake
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