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Old 11-07-2007, 09:09 AM   #16
gazwad
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so after absolutely no sleep last night from trying to work everything out in my head i've made a major decision - i'm going down the metty subframe route!
this means extended front and 13" wheels but it also means MUCH less work and i can stop sh##ing myself everytime i look at the engine! i'm gonna try and get the complete running gear (subby, gearbox, driveshafts etc) from a r100 (not metro, cos i want the r65U box).
i like the idea of using 'factory' components so if/when something breaks it is easier and cheaper to replace!
i've got an mgtf subby already but its got bits missing and has been cut about a bit, i'm gonna see if i can use the coilover set up from it though, has anyone done this?
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Old 11-07-2007, 02:40 PM   #17
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Nooooooooooooooo!

Stick with the mini subby and 10s - I know its gonna be hard but I want to see it done

Im not being selfish - honest


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Old 11-07-2007, 05:23 PM   #18
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Keep with the original plan it will be better in the long run. I bought a mini with a metro frame already mounted the realised i should have kept witi my original plan so stripped the one i bought. Still got one of the side mounts if you want it as a template. Its bolts on where the shocker mounts are and where the hydro unit sits on a metro frame.
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Old 11-07-2007, 06:31 PM   #19
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sorry folks but i've decided! i want the car back on the road asap and want to keep the original pg1 gearbox etc which i think is nearly impossible otherwise. i'm picking up a complete r100 subframe (with brakes etc) from the scrappy tomorrow for 50 and i'll combine that with my mgtf frame (with pg1 driveshafts) so ive got coilovers for free!
i just don't have the time or space to build my own subby along with all the other bits needed, this way everything is standard rover, cheap and easy. i'd love to buy the frame from 16vminishop.co.uk but when you start adding all the other bits up you need it starts getting very expensive.
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Old 12-07-2007, 09:08 PM   #20
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went back down the scrap yard today to get the metty frame. had to get the gearbox out fist, this is VERY diffict with limited tools (no balljoint splitter) whilst balancing on top of a pile of cars. it took 2 hours and i made a bit of a schoolboy error - dropped the frame out with just a few hoses and pipes attached, started cutting them (brake hoses etc), wasn't paying attention and cut into one of the pressurised hydrolastic pipes, got soaked with smelly, illuminus green ectoplasm!! stupid peach. the scrap yard owner found it highly amusing...
anyway it looks like i'll try and use the tf frame with metty hubs, wishbones, rack etc, using tf top arms and coilovers. i think the towers will be too high though so my plan is to mount the top of the coilover onto a ajustable backet where the original dampers mount, cut the towers to fit the bulhead and weld a thick plate on top to take the original tower bolts. could someone with a metty frame mini please measure from the underside of the bulkhead cross member to the top of the metty tower for me to help me get the height right?
thanks
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Old 14-07-2007, 06:48 PM   #21
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sold my old subframe & brakes as well as my 10" alloys
bought some brand new rover 100 gta alloys from ebay for 75 , i'm going to strip off the paint and polish them, they should look ok for metro wheels...
stripped down the metty frame and offered it up into position against the bulkhead, jebus it looks like its sposed to fit there!!! thanks to cheekym0nkey for the side plate - drilled some holes for the top mountings and bolted it in position, nice. oh and made a hole for the steering rack to poke through.
it's been way to easy so far......
next up is to finish the side plates & tidy them up, weld some box section to the rear of the frame with flat plates welded on the end to bolt to the floor. then i'll trial fit the engine and see how much i can remove from the front of the frame.
i've took pics but i'm not sure how to post them up
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Old 14-07-2007, 10:05 PM   #22
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Register with photobucket.com and you can post pics from there
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Old 19-07-2007, 07:28 PM   #23
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ah thanks for that, i'll get the pics up soon.
got the rear lower mounts made and tacked in - basically just some 2" box section cut at the angle of the bulkhead with a 6mm thick plate welded to it then 4 m8 bolts on each one held captive (welded) to another 6mm plate on the inside of the car. i'm opening the holes on the side plate mounts to 8mm and using high tensile bolts, thats 16 m8 high tensile bolts so should be strong!
anyone know much about exhausts?? i could fit a 2" playmini type system but i have a pair of stainless straight through bike silencers i'd like to use in parallel (using a y piece) but they're only 1.5" bore each. that equals 3" overall but i'm not sure it works like that? i don't want it to be restrictive??
can anyone help?
thanks
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Old 19-07-2007, 08:05 PM   #24
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pics added:
these are the car two weeks ago after 2 years of work and my 1380 engine!
J3 by garrywadey, on Flickr
J5 by garrywadey, on Flickr
J4 by garrywadey, on Flickr
here's my 10k ariel atom engine (note vvc manifold with lettering removed!) and the hole its going in to:
DSCI0081 by garrywadey, on Flickr
DSCI0080 by garrywadey, on Flickr
subframe fitted, side plates and then engine trial fitted (i'll put pics up of the rear mounts when i remove the frame for welding and painting)
DSCI0091 by garrywadey, on Flickr
DSCI0098 by garrywadey, on Flickr
DSCI0094 by garrywadey, on Flickr
hope these worked![/img]

Last edited by gazwad; 19-09-2017 at 12:37 PM.
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Old 20-07-2007, 10:43 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazwad
anyone know much about exhausts?? i don't want it to be restrictive??
can anyone help?
thanks
yeah dont make it loud or you'll fail the mot and it will annoy the bananas out f you and your neighbours

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Old 21-07-2007, 12:13 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazwad
pics added:
my god thats perfection, its exactly how i want mine to look when finnished, a pure sleeper with retro looks but modern grunt, and you had detailed the engine so well

still will be sweet with the k in and running

wayne
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Old 21-07-2007, 10:18 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazwad
anyone know much about exhausts??
nope but im running a bog standard RC40 twin box system with no power loss on the rolling road, power gain actualy if the rollers were right!

think RC40 is 1 3/4 inch so doubt youd have restriction problems with either setup
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Old 21-07-2007, 10:51 AM   #28
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Quote:
yeah dont make it loud or you'll fail the mot and it will annoy the bananas out f you and your neighbours
tell me about it!!!!

the neighbours were ok but the mot man wasn't

ive now switched to an rc40 with a centre box, nice quiet idle but absolutley roars when opened up

still seems to go well

my plan is to use the 2" system that was on there but with 2 more extra silencers

Lovin' the car by the way. mine might be tidy like that one day, well probably not

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Old 21-07-2007, 02:08 PM   #29
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might as well try the bike exhausts then if i use a 2" standard link pipe and make everything else fit that then if its too loud i can swap it for a link pipe with intermediate silencer...
yeah, shame about the engine, i spent a lot of time making it look (and go) good, but the urge for modern power was too much. i'm gonna spend some time making the k look good though. i wan't it to look like it's suppost to be there, not like it fell in

has anyone got a spare 2" link pipe and a y piece (from an lcb) preferably in stainless?
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Old 26-07-2007, 08:59 PM   #30
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slow progress as i've been on holiday (in sunny devon) and been a bit ill, but i managed to whip the frame back out and fully weld the bottom mounts and the lower engine steady mount (cut off the mgtf frame). i'll clean up and paint the frame tommorow and get it back in the car (for the last time) along with the return fuel line. pictures to follow.
p.s. can someone move this to the rover builds section?
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