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Old 29-12-2017, 09:01 AM   #76
gazwad
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when you disarm the immobilizer using the fob does it 'click', if not have you re-aligned the fob (press the lock button 5 times then unlock button), this needs to be done every time the battery is disconnected. The immobiliser should then click, if it doesn't the there is either a problem with the fob or immobiliser or power to the immobiliser. If it does click but still doesn't run then it could be a communication problem. If this is the case then the ecu should allow the enigne to fire and run for 2-3 seconds before it cuts out, if it doesn't even do this then there is another problem such as a sensor not plugged in, wiring fault or faulty component.
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Old 02-01-2018, 08:43 AM   #77
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Sorry for my delay in relying - slight technical problem meant i couldn't rely to the thread!

I hadn't re-aligned the fob after re-connecting the battery, thanks for the reminder! Fob then was heard clicking after, so I knew they were working.

It still didn't run after that, but I managed to trace the fault to ignition wiring - I have MPI steering column, which I wired to my loom (I've used complete MG loom, but shortened to fit in the mini).

The switched power to the immobiliser power was cut out on crank position, so killed the immobiliser.

I re-wired the original MG ignition switch back in and it now starts on the button

Question now is, is it possible to wire MPI mini ignition switch into the MG wiring loom?

After about a few test fire-ups, the fuel pump pineappleped out, so I've got another inline pump on order, hopefully it'll turn up today or tomorrow. Watch this space!
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Old 08-01-2018, 07:18 PM   #78
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New pump turned up and runs sweet now.

Put the mini back on all fours after months on chassis jig and then axle stands.

Moved forwards and back a few feet to make sure driveshafts and gear linkage work.

Cooling system flushed yesterday and rad started to go back in. Fan wired up.

Trying to borrow turntables to get wheel alignment something like it. Any recommendations for caster angles?

Hopefully some more progress to report later this week and at the weekend.

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Ready to go out for coolant flush

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr

Rad starting to go in

Untitled by Andy Walker, on Flickr
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Old 08-01-2018, 09:59 PM   #79
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WOW me likey!
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Old 08-01-2018, 11:22 PM   #80
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Neat work, looks great! I have a question, on the exhaust manifold, the standard one pairs cylinders 1/4 and 2/3, I see youve paired 1/2 and 3/4, would this make any performance difference or is it just for ease? I'm looking to replace mine for a freeer flowing one and that looks great!

Also I copied this off a build thread a while back (think it was Dan's?)

Quote:
FRONT

Camber. 0.5 to 1.5 deg neg. the need for more than 1.5 deg. points to another problem

Caster. 3 to 6 deg. the need for more the 6.0 deg. points to another problem.

Toe out to a minimum but not straight ahead or toeing in.

REAR

Camber 0.0 to 0.5 deg neg.

Standard toe in
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Old 09-01-2018, 06:59 AM   #81
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The exhaust is paired like that purely for ease and space...any other way and the pipes would have to pass over one another. I don’t have the real estate for that and can’t afford a full on custom made manifold. If anything I imagine it’ll be a performance loss, but time will tell!

Thanks for the numbers, I remember seeing them somewhere before but couldn’t find them last night!
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Old 09-01-2018, 07:27 AM   #82
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Looking good! geometry wise with 13" wheels I would go for around 3-4 degrees caster, 0 degrees camber all round and 0.2-0.4 degrees toe in on the rear, 0.2-04 degrees tow out on the front and see how it drives. Set your ride height first though and corner weights are a good idea
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Old 09-01-2018, 07:37 AM   #83
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Thanks Gaz, I’m debating buying turntables so I can have an ongoing tinker with alignment, but they’re quite expensive for potentially one use!

The van has always had negative camber bottom arms on it from when I bought it. I’ve not had adverse tyre wear as yet either.

Would I be right in thinking torque steer is lessened/worsened by caster rather than camber?
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Old 09-01-2018, 10:43 AM   #84
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It will be fine with some negative camber but with 13" wheels you usually get better feel and grip with 0 degrees, also this will help with traction and reduce torque steer stightly. Caster doesn't really effect torque steer as such but by increasing caster you increase the self-centering of the steering and therefore less steering effort is needed to keep the wheels pointing straight ahead, but too much will make the steering too heavy and will start having negative effects on handling. Turntables aren't necessary, I have set up my own mini and a few others with some very simple kit, a gunson tracking gauge: http://www.gunson.co.uk/product/G4008 is surprisingly accurate and can be used on all 4 wheels, a protractor I have modified to measure both camber and caster (i'll try and post a photo of it later) and a cornerweight gauge bought second hand like this: https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motor...r-weight-gauge
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Old 11-01-2018, 07:44 AM   #85
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazwad View Post
It will be fine with some negative camber but with 13" wheels you usually get better feel and grip with 0 degrees, also this will help with traction and reduce torque steer stightly. Caster doesn't really effect torque steer as such but by increasing caster you increase the self-centering of the steering and therefore less steering effort is needed to keep the wheels pointing straight ahead, but too much will make the steering too heavy and will start having negative effects on handling. Turntables aren't necessary, I have set up my own mini and a few others with some very simple kit, a gunson tracking gauge: http://www.gunson.co.uk/product/G4008 is surprisingly accurate and can be used on all 4 wheels, a protractor I have modified to measure both camber and caster (i'll try and post a photo of it later) and a cornerweight gauge bought second hand like this: https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motor...r-weight-gauge
Excellent, all round to Gaz's to sort out our caster, camber and corner weights
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Old 11-01-2018, 08:13 PM   #86
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Thanks chaps. Will have a play in due course.....hopefully this weekend!
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Old 12-01-2018, 07:43 PM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will16 View Post
Neat work, looks great! I have a question, on the exhaust manifold, the standard one pairs cylinders 1/4 and 2/3, I see youve paired 1/2 and 3/4, would this make any performance difference or is it just for ease? I'm looking to replace mine for a freeer flowing one and that looks great!
Given that the firing order is 1,3,4,2, the standard manifold takes gases down alternate branches at each stroke. The 1/2 & 3/4 manifold will take two strokes down one branch then two down the other. My hunch is that this will hit performance but I don't know how much. Keep us posted.
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Old 13-01-2018, 05:18 PM   #88
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I believe itís all to do with exhaust gas scavenging to help draw the exhaust gases out.


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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it
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Old 14-01-2018, 07:00 AM   #89
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Looking awesome can't wait to see this! I reckon manifold will be fine. The secondary pipes link up just behind the sump anyway. How did your frame clearances work out - you got much room under the tie bar and lower arm when on full droop?


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Old 14-01-2018, 09:50 AM   #90
ZA-J
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Tie bar and bottom arms touch the frame when it’s on axle stands, but it doesn’t appear to limit their movement much.

There’s a decent amount of clearance when it’s on the ground.
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