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Old 22-08-2017, 06:57 PM   #16
will16
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I've got the same setup as Dan above, and about 5mm between my inlet manifold and the bulkhead! *touchwood* theres no hitting marks!
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Old 22-08-2017, 07:08 PM   #17
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Thanks Will, sounds like a plan
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Old 05-09-2017, 08:03 PM   #18
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Managed to get more done on the weekend

Bought a small used alternator from a Daihatsu Charade just to make sure it was smaller than the zr alternator before I buy a new one.



Bought an alloy pulley but couldn't do the nut up tight when fitted as the original spacer was too thick to get a spanner on the shaft nut. For those interested, I used two 1.6 thick x 15mm id x 28mm od washers, oh and mutilated a socket by cutting a slot to fit a 10mm spanner in there.







Also made a bracket and just about manage to get a 5PK700 belt on there



Made a start on the bottom engine steady, but had to cut it apart as it isn't straight...must be at an angle to the body mount on the zr.







Had a bit of a problem with the brake calipers hitting the tie rods on full lock. Realised it was due to the new angle causing masses amounts of negative caster. So had to cut more thread and chop 1/2" off the end. This brought the calipers up just enough to clear the tie rod. Btw, for those interested the thread on the adjustable end is 5/8"-18 unf



Managed to get some brace bars made too.



And hopefully this is the last test fit of the engine before adding a bit more bracing to the frame.


Last edited by twincamtone; 05-09-2017 at 08:07 PM.
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Old 06-09-2017, 10:48 AM   #19
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Cracking on! Great progress. How much clearance have you got on full steering lock between the tie bar and the inner shoulder of the tyre? This is the main constraint on mine, though I have smaller offset wheels. You moved your tie bar front mountings further out I think but can't remember how far


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Old 06-09-2017, 01:52 PM   #20
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Good progress so far, well done!

A few pointers. The alternator bracket will snap. It's pulling on the belt at the end of a long bolt. These spin at up to 20,000 rpm and cause massive vibrations. Been there, got that T shirt. Mine was stronger than yours and still broke.

The bottom steady bar. You have the right idea making it adjust able but it's no where near thick enough. Mine is the Watson's one which is made from M20 bar.

What gearbox have you got? For some reason the G4 ratio box is the only one that stickers stay on! So I'm thinking that's what you have. Unless your Mini is for track use only, I'd swap it to a C6 from a non VVC 1.8 car.

Trying to be helpful, not negative as all these jobs are easy to address at this stage. I have had to redo these myself after my initial build.
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Old 06-09-2017, 07:06 PM   #21
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Cracking on! Great progress. How much clearance have you got on full steering lock between the tie bar and the inner shoulder of the tyre? This is the main constraint on mine, though I have smaller offset wheels. You moved your tie bar front mountings further out I think but can't remember how far


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It looks like this on full lock on both sides



The frame clearance on the offside is a bit closer than I hoped, but may re-arrange the position of the bolt for the engine mount.



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Old 06-09-2017, 07:16 PM   #22
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Good progress so far, well done!

A few pointers. The alternator bracket will snap. It's pulling on the belt at the end of a long bolt. These spin at up to 20,000 rpm and cause massive vibrations. Been there, got that T shirt. Mine was stronger than yours and still broke.

The bottom steady bar. You have the right idea making it adjust able but it's no where near thick enough. Mine is the Watson's one which is made from M20 bar.

What gearbox have you got? For some reason the G4 ratio box is the only one that stickers stay on! So I'm thinking that's what you have. Unless your Mini is for track use only, I'd swap it to a C6 from a non VVC 1.8 car.

Trying to be helpful, not negative as all these jobs are easy to address at this stage. I have had to redo these myself after my initial build.

Any input is very much appreciated and to be honest, I think you may be right about the alternator bracket, the thing is, I was really eager to see if the alternator would fit behind the front panel and made it from scraps of 3mm steel instead of 4 or 5mm. Much the same with the threaded bar too

The gearbox have been changed to a C6BP from an MGF with 60k, not sure whether to keep the C4 or sell it to fund more parts, as these gearboxes are pretty much bulletproof.
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Old 07-09-2017, 03:35 AM   #23
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looking good tone, by chance the other day i was given the job of gas axeing the lumps out of 3 cheroky jeeps, i see it had a long altinator bracket and andrews brakeing brackets came to mind!!
it had a thin 12 mm bar EDIT> shIt,round tube!12 mm aprox atached to the top of the outer most bracket ,,then to the head,
maybe take some vibe out , must be a reason if poss,
can you give the bar a slight bend? like allspeed?thats the tie bar to clear lock?
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Old 07-09-2017, 05:28 PM   #24
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Cheers Shaun, sounds interesting mate, I was going to fit an Ultimate mini engine steady that I had on my A series as it was pretty solid, that's the threaded bar in the photo attached to the Rover steady bracket, thought this would take out some of the vibration as you said, but not sure how much movement would be on the engine under hard acceleration.

The tie rods clear the tyres ok on mine, just a little close to the calipers, but should be ok.
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Old 08-09-2017, 03:47 AM   #25
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still looks good curnow, dont think the engine moveing back will disturbe the dineimo,
it was a small bar atached to the dinimo top bracket to the lump,
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Old 08-09-2017, 03:09 PM   #26
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I understand what you're saying now
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Old 08-09-2017, 03:22 PM   #27
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i nearly took a pic of it, so simple maybe and i could see how it would take the sting out from that point
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Old 17-09-2017, 06:20 PM   #28
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Re-made the alternator bracket with thicker 5mm and added more strength into it too. Not much to show for the weekend but I guess any progress is moving forward.



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Old 17-09-2017, 07:08 PM   #29
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Personally I wouldn't have worried about the alternator too much, it's much smaller and lighter than the original alternator, it's also supported by the adjuster and not just the top bracket which looked very well made too, so I'm sure it would have been fine, you've definitely got nothing to worry about with that new bracket, it's beefy!


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Old 18-09-2017, 07:54 AM   #30
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The bracket does look better.

Maybe I am being a bit over kill now because have had the bracket snap on 3 different occasions. I have now got the standard bracket which hols both sides of the alternator and long bolts go through the lot.

Dan mentioned the fact the bottom bracket also holds it but you will not be surprised to see that they have snapped too.



I have made my own now from 5mm steel to replace the 3mm steel standard one.
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