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Old 14-02-2017, 06:19 PM   #1
twincamtone
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Default 1971 1.8 K Standard Roundnose

Hi everyone,

I thought now is a good time to start my build thread. I’m hoping to squeeze the 1.8 K Series and PG1 gearbox into Smidge, my 1971 Mini 1000. I want to keep the standard length round nose and keep bulkhead modifications to a minimum, hence using the PG1. I understand with the R65 gearbox linkage needs some mods on the bulkhead.





So, I’ve had Smidge since 2009. The intention was to build a rally car and compete in some club events, nothing serious, just for the fun of it, but with one thing and another I think those days are probably over. Anyway, I got my donor car yesterday, it’s a 2004 53 plate MG ZR 1.8 £275 delivered. The engine sounds really nice and quiet, no knocks, oil light goes out immediately, and no sign of any blue smoke etc. It’s got 46855 on the clock and the last few mot's back this up, so really happy to find something with such low mileage.





Everything works, except I’m having a problem with the alarm and central locking. I put a new battery in the keyfob but doesn't seem to do much, so tried the key in the lock and when I lock the door the alarm sounds, and switches off when I unlock it...Strange. Can’t hear the central locking working at all, so need to sort this before stripping the car as I intend to use the whole electrical system. I need to jack the front wheels off the ground to check the speedo works and free off a brake calliper to be able to move the car around, probably due to not being driven since 2010.







Not sure if you guys think this is a bargain, but I think I should be able to make most if not more than the £275 invested. Anyway, I’m a happy bunny at the moment

Last edited by twincamtone; 21-08-2017 at 02:39 PM.
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Old 14-02-2017, 08:01 PM   #2
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Looks like a good donor!
Looking at the keys in your pic it looks like you have a car with the troublesome Pektron unit, you can almost guarantee that will be the source of your problem.
Best thing you can do is get rid of that and fit the Lucas 5AS or if your not bothered about having the immobiliser then get the ECU flashed to suit and do away with it.


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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
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Old 15-02-2017, 01:57 AM   #3
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Looks a good donor! Most cars that have been stood for years get all brakes, suspension etc seized up so not surprised at what you have posted. The interior still looks good too. I had a MG TF for 18 months and as it wasn't being used just grew moss for fun.

The issue with the immobiliser. Can you post s photo of the fob? If it's black and grey then it's a Pektron type and known to be more problematic than the earlier Lucas (all black) one due to the Pektron having relays on a circuit board. The Lucas has relays which can just be unplugged and swapped.

If it is a Pektron type then you are best off contacting this guy.

https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk/

The service isn't too expensive and is very specialised so personally would go here before taking it to someone who doesn't understand them.

The next issue will be, once it works would you fit it into a Mini? The answer is no. I would swap the body loom and ECU set from a Lucas based car. The Pektron is overly complicated and unreliable. Parts are double the price too due to good sets being a premium.
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Last edited by AGoaty; 15-02-2017 at 02:30 PM.
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Old 15-02-2017, 06:02 PM   #4
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Thanks you guys! Yes it is the Pektron



and thanks for the link

Last edited by twincamtone; 20-08-2017 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 21-08-2017, 07:49 PM   #5
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Well it's taken a while finishing my garage in order to get going with the engine swap and now that I've ditched photobucket and re-posted pics from flickr it's time for an update











Welded the tower brace in.



and welded a temporary brace at the bottom before cutting subframe.













TCA mounts welded in place.























Decided to go for 30mm x 30mm with 3mm wall, was going to use 2.5 but decided to go thicker just to be on the safe side.

























That's for now
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Old 21-08-2017, 08:31 PM   #6
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Nice one!
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Old 21-08-2017, 08:45 PM   #7
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Coming along well, looks good so far
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Old 22-08-2017, 07:20 AM   #8
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looks good. I would check inlet manifold clearance with the master cylinders fitted, both standard length conversions i've done have required the master cylinders (clutch mainly) moving towards the rear of the car, ideally you want a minimum of 10-15mm clearance as the engine tilts backward quite a lot on hard acceleration.
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Old 22-08-2017, 05:35 PM   #9
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Cracking on! How did you cut the wedges for your bent & welded frame rails? Jig? Or steady hand? I had a go freehand with a disc cutter and it was not pretty!


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Old 22-08-2017, 05:56 PM   #10
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Thanks guys

Gaz, thanks for that info, I was wondering how much movement there might be on acceleration, Iím thinking I might gain more space if I raise the engine slightly as Iím planning on a cable clutch at the moment so there wonít be a cylinder in the way, only thing is raising the engine will create another problem with the oil filter housing so may have to make it remote. Iím trying to build the frame with all or most of it hiddenÖMore head scratching me thinks.
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Old 22-08-2017, 06:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yellow View Post
Cracking on! How did you cut the wedges for your bent & welded frame rails? Jig? Or steady hand? I had a go freehand with a disc cutter and it was not pretty!


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Freehand with 4.5" cutting disc, I done a lot of cardboard cutting to make sure I cut out the right amount of metal for the angle, believe me, I grapesed up a couple pieces

I don't remember typing "grapesed"
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Old 22-08-2017, 06:36 PM   #12
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I have 2 steadies on my frame to stop it moving under acceleration, my clearance is tight and I get no knocking anymore.
I have one steady that bolts to the sump at the back on the drivers side and then a bracket welded to the subframe with a couple of rose joints that is bolted to the gearbox/engine block joint. They're both low down but work very well.


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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it
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Old 22-08-2017, 06:42 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by InstantCustard View Post
I have 2 steadies on my frame to stop it moving under acceleration, my clearance is tight and I get no knocking anymore.
I have one steady that bolts to the sump at the back on the drivers side and then a bracket welded to the subframe with a couple of rose joints that is bolted to the gearbox/engine block joint. They're both low down but work very well.


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Cheers buddy! Will go see what you've done
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Old 22-08-2017, 06:45 PM   #14
InstantCustard
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Default 1971 1.8 K Standard Roundnose

Can see them both here:

The sump mount uses a standard lower steady from an MGF/TF, Elise and I believe a ZS uses it too

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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Originally Posted by ardonfast View Post
Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
I love it
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Old 22-08-2017, 06:56 PM   #15
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Thanks for posting, Does the standard one have a rose joint on the other end then?
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