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Old 26-02-2017, 09:12 PM   #31
will16
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Thanks Andrew for that , very helpful, may have to steal the design of that linkage! haha I copied the alt bracket off Dan's first one, better safe than sorry and all that

I'm still plodding away with this, at the moment it feels like 1 step forward 3 steps back, all caused by me . First the alternator was wrong, 3 times, that meant I had to change the bracket I made, then I tried 3 different belts, finally got the right length, then I spent ages modifying the exhaust mani and only got 5mm more clearance lol, and then to top it all off, the "MPi" tank I bought in good faith of it being genuine (and paid a fair amount of money for!) is actually a SPi tank, so I need a new fuel pump, which leads me onto this one below.

Would this be suitable? Would I need a fuel pressure reg or could I just plumb it into the tank and be done once and for all?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-...8AAOSw2s1Uwqje

Many Thanks,
Will

Last edited by will16; 26-02-2017 at 10:57 PM.
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Old 27-02-2017, 06:29 AM   #32
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That would be ok, you just need to make sure you have a pump with 342 in the model name for fitment into the basket.



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Old 27-02-2017, 01:41 PM   #33
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Ah, this is the number on my pump, guess it won't fit?

1CBA1F36-0C90-45AA-BE1E-A9033893E951_zpszf7gtcxm by Will Giddings, on Flickr

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Old 27-02-2017, 04:33 PM   #34
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The link you posted has GSS342 in the title, that's the correct pump, it's just the prongs on the bottom of the pump don't sit in the basket properly otherwise, it still "fits" though.


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Old 27-02-2017, 08:10 PM   #35
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Most of them fit in a fashion don't they... I once put a pump from an suzuki 4x4 in a gsxr 1000. Was fine! Lol
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Old 27-02-2017, 09:08 PM   #36
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haha cheers chaps, I've ordered it anyway, I'm sure I can make it fit, like pretty much everything else!
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Old 08-03-2017, 09:04 PM   #37
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Few more things done, fuel pump was piece of p*ss in the end, made alot more sense after I took it out the tank . Also gave up on the internal linkage, did it like most people, and shortened the stock one! Gearbox is being built tomorrow, fingers crossed it goes to plan .

Also changed the thermostat for an 82 one. As there is no heater I drilled a few 3.5mm holes in in, changed with genuine o rings and seal, though I managed to pull one of the brass inserted from the thermostat (only using a 1/4 driver!) so used a long bolt with a nut aswell. Swapped in a normal K series dipstick/tube and coolant hardline as mine was a MGF versions.

D1FC3D66-3AA5-4C89-98FD-9BEE84C2F95C_zpsb9bypmsa by Will Giddings, on Flickr

1992CDA4-63B2-43C6-883B-FCDF56639936_zpsc4nfvlto by Will Giddings, on Flickr

DA0EB29D-790A-4C94-8C6C-A76E59D97F4B_zpsaw6czfdo by Will Giddings, on Flickr

Bodge or nah ?

35A13E52-4AD5-4DD2-80BA-584E17D57991_zpsoli4qs7t by Will Giddings, on Flickr

As I'm using no heater can I just turn up a cylinder to go in this pipe coming off the thermostat, essentially blocking it off?

D45F5CEA-BEEB-4634-85EA-DBF48251CF6B_zpsulklxclu by Will Giddings, on Flickr

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Old 09-03-2017, 06:14 AM   #38
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Why not just run a hose to where the heater returns to?
You can just block them though, wouldn't be an issue.


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Old 09-03-2017, 07:01 AM   #39
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I agree, you can just blank off the holes for the heater. It's only like the valve is closed so won't cause any running issues. My question is are you mad though? The heater is a necessity just to be able to see where you are going! I cannot imagine running without it.

The bolt though the thermostat housing is fine. I would of chopped some of the excess threads of though just to tidy it up.

The fuel pump, I can see a potential problem. You have joined the piping using rubber hose. My friend Steve had an issue where the rubber disintegrated (as it's submerged in fuel) and then the pipe leaked internally causing running issues that were really hard to find. Ideally you should replace that with plastic pipe which is what was used in the standard car.

Good luck with the gearbox internals swap. Any issues just send me a PM.
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Old 09-03-2017, 11:41 AM   #40
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I wouldn't just return the hose to the engine as without the restriction of the heater matrix it will steal some of the radiator flow (when the thermostat is open the heater is effectively in parallel to the radiator). MGFs had a simple on off valve in series with the heater so either just blank the heater connections or if you really want to connect the two ports put a restrictor (about 5mm hole) in instead of the heater.
Having owned vehicles without heater's I agree with Andrew's comments!
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Old 09-03-2017, 01:47 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by InstantCustard View Post
Why not just run a hose to where the heater returns to?
You can just block them though, wouldn't be an issue.
I would but I don't have enough clearance between standard top hose take off and the front end I'm just using a cut down standard take off so only need to blank the back hole

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I agree, you can just blank off the holes for the heater. It's only like the valve is closed so won't cause any running issues. My question is are you mad though? The heater is a necessity just to be able to see where you are going! I cannot imagine running without it.

The bolt though the thermostat housing is fine. I would of chopped some of the excess threads of though just to tidy it up.

The fuel pump, I can see a potential problem. You have joined the piping using rubber hose. My friend Steve had an issue where the rubber disintegrated (as it's submerged in fuel) and then the pipe leaked internally causing running issues that were really hard to find. Ideally you should replace that with plastic pipe which is what was used in the standard car.

Good luck with the gearbox internals swap. Any issues just send me a PM.
Yes I am mad :P! I never used the heater in it in the first place, and when it started leaking I took it out completely, I run with the windows cracked open anyway and haven't had a problem with steaming up. Thanks for the other points and the head up on the fuel pump hose. It was supplied with the pump kit, but will look about at work for some plastic stuff . Cheers, I may well be sending you a PM later

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I wouldn't just return the hose to the engine as without the restriction of the heater matrix it will steal some of the radiator flow (when the thermostat is open the heater is effectively in parallel to the radiator). MGFs had a simple on off valve in series with the heater so either just blank the heater connections or if you really want to connect the two ports put a restrictor (about 5mm hole) in instead of the heater.
Having owned vehicles without heater's I agree with Andrew's comments!
Cliff
I'll just blank the connections, nice and easy then! I can live with no heater, this will be a nice weather/show car anyway
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Old 09-03-2017, 03:23 PM   #42
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The hose supplied should be rated for use with fuel and ethanol proof, it will most likely be the ethanol in fuel that would rot normal rubber hose.
By all means replace it with plastic if you want to, I'm sure it would be fine if it's a genuine branded pump or from a good source, however I would question it if it's a cheap copy or unbranded pump.
Had no issues with the Walbro in my tank and that's been sat in fuel for 4 years now.


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I love it
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Old 09-03-2017, 07:48 PM   #43
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Hmm maybe I'll just leave it for the time being then! It's no a genuine Walbro, but it is from a decent seller.

I was trying to get the bearing out of the bellhousing, tried the boiling water trick a few times, nada, so decided to give it a whack (rubber mallet!) and oops. Could it be used? I'm guessing it's now scrap tbh. Built up the shaft though

A3E1A978-5078-4AA7-9CD5-C20559761365_zpszktshuii by Will Giddings, on Flickr

326FC6F8-3586-44AF-ADEA-D9E426C73ADF_zpsrsbdzxz4 by Will Giddings, on Flickr

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Old 13-03-2017, 03:29 PM   #44
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Unless I'm very much mistaken, you can't just blank off the heater piping - the K series requires a hot water feed in order to open the thermostat. I did this at first on my build, caused all sorts of overheating problems.

I took a feed from the head outlet straight round to the thermostat, using an 8mm restriction mid way through the pipe to limit the hot water flow.
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Fuck me Shaun. That actually made sense.
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Old 14-03-2017, 05:25 PM   #45
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Unless I'm very much mistaken, you can't just blank off the heater piping - the K series requires a hot water feed in order to open the thermostat. I did this at first on my build, caused all sorts of overheating problems.

I took a feed from the head outlet straight round to the thermostat, using an 8mm restriction mid way through the pipe to limit the hot water flow.
ah ok, thanks for the heads up! I'll get some pipe and do that
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