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Old 06-06-2017, 07:13 AM   #376
gazwad
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do you have a bleed point at the highest point on the rad? doesn't need to go back to the expansion bottle, just need to be able to let the air out when you bleed the system. We found with Shaun's rear mounted rad that we had to thoroughly bleed it several times before the temps would stabilise and that was with a bleed point at the top of the rad (a small outlet with some hose then a bolt clamped in the end). We were seeing rising temps at speed until we got all the air out.
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Old 06-06-2017, 09:27 AM   #377
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Originally Posted by gazwad View Post
do you have a bleed point at the highest point on the rad? doesn't need to go back to the expansion bottle, just need to be able to let the air out when you bleed the system. We found with Shaun's rear mounted rad that we had to thoroughly bleed it several times before the temps would stabilise and that was with a bleed point at the top of the rad (a small outlet with some hose then a bolt clamped in the end). We were seeing rising temps at speed until we got all the air out.


Yeah I've got a bleed in the back in each pipe where they come through the rear bulk head at the highest point before they go into the radiator, there's also a bleed in the radiator it's self and one in one of the coolant pipes at the front of the car.

One thing that I would like to know about for sure is the pipe that comes off the inlet manifold... (Which goes back into the expansion tank) is this meant to return water to the tank? Looked online and people call the pipe in the manifold a jiggle valve, Some people say about drilling it out so its more free flowing. But I also read it's purpose is to help remove air from the system? Any info on that would be grate or if anyone has removed it ect. Thanks


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Old 06-06-2017, 09:49 AM   #378
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I think it's only the plastic manifold that have a jiggle valve. pull the hose of and poke something down there to see if it goes straight through
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Old 06-06-2017, 10:06 AM   #379
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It's definitely got something in there. I pushed a screw driver in there the other day and could feel the ball bearing. There's no water returning from that pipe either. Tempted to take the manifold off and have s proper look at it. Can you see any purpose in it having the ball bearing in there?


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Old 06-06-2017, 10:19 AM   #380
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It's definitely got something in there. I pushed a screw driver in there the other day and could feel the ball bearing. There's no water returning from that pipe either. Tempted to take the manifold off and have s proper look at it. Can you see any purpose in it having the ball bearing in there?


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I cant remember for from the top of my head, but im sure i removed it on my engine mate and i now have constant flow in the expansion bottle.. i seem to remember a small metal pipe with a ball in it ..
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Old 06-06-2017, 10:48 AM   #381
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Yeah that's it mate. I would have thought the water should flow back through that pipe into the expansion tank anyways. But mine doesn't so I think I'll drill the ball out on the weekend.


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Old 06-06-2017, 11:08 AM   #382
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Just wanted to lend a bit of moral support and say this is looking absolutely awesome. And on the subject of the water pump don't think it can overcool as the thermostat will close. The electric pump also gives you the massive benefit that you can continue to circulate coolant after the engine is shut down which is brilliant after a track session and the heat-soak sets in!


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Old 06-06-2017, 11:45 AM   #383
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Ball valves are usually used to prevent the coolant flowing the wrong way under certain conditions. If the pipe enters the bottle blow the coolant level this is no big deal as coolant will be drawn back into the system and all that happens is the warm up gets slowed a little. But if the pipe enters the bottle above the coolant level then air will be pulled back into the system which will mix with the coolant and reduce it's overall effectiveness.
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Old 06-06-2017, 12:27 PM   #384
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My alloy inlet had the jiggle valve. I removed this when I built my car after advice from my local engine reconditioners.

Kyle's 160 VVC had the valve in too. So not just the plastic ones.
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Old 06-06-2017, 12:30 PM   #385
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Stop grapesing about Char and fit some Jenveys, they don't have the jiggle valve!!


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Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
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Old 16-09-2017, 04:01 PM   #386
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I was just watching some random Track Day fails videos on YouTube and spotted a certain red mini amongst the traffic a few times

https://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=7NMdX6pb33s

EDIT - Link didn't work.

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Old 14-01-2018, 07:42 PM   #387
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Just realised I havenít up dated my build for a long long time. Hereís a few pictures from my Nurburgring trip in June.

















The starter motor went on the first day of the trip so it had to be bumped started every time after that



The turbo actuator snapped on a track session. Lucky for me I found a very helpful mini lover who welded it back together for me in his work shop.



Then I got to go out in this


When we left the Nurburgring, driving through Brussels this happened



The splines on the steering column worn away and I lost steering. I bodged it with some chemical metal then driving steady we hunted around and finally found a garage with a welded which I could use to weld the steering column to the steering rack. After this we made it home safe and sound.



Luck really wasnít on my side leading up to this trip during and after. Hence why I havenít up dated my build for so long.

I had a load of problems on the dyno before I went... ended up going there and back 3 times and the car still wasnít running properly. The standard actuator on my turbo wasnít holding boost properly so i was getting boost creeps up to 25psi even with the boost controller disconnected and on actuator pressure (should be 10psi). So I took the car to Germany driving on quarter to half throttle and keeping the revs below 6000rpm so I wouldnít boost over 14psi. I was still very impressed with how the car was performing at that tho.

The day before we went I snapped one of my ďunbreakableĒ custom made drive shafts (on quarter throttle short shifting into 3rd gear). This really wasnít ideal. I put my original sleeved shafts back in. The day after we got back I snapped one off my sleeved shafts driving the car down to my unit. This really was the final nail in the coffin and so they mini has sat gathering dust since then.








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Old 14-01-2018, 08:05 PM   #388
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On a side note how have you found the Nankangs ?
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Old 14-01-2018, 08:11 PM   #389
chabbly vvc
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Now for a proper update.... and some drastic changes. I obviously had some issues to sort with the drive shafts, after a lot of thinking and playing around with a few other ideas I decided to ditch the Alspeed set up all together and move over to a MGF frame. The main reasons being if I brake a shaft I can get an off the shelf replacement cheap. Everything on the mgf frame is a lot bigger and stronger than the mini stuff... the hubs are bigger, cv joints, wishbones ect so Iím hoping I will notice the difference and it will drive a lot straighter and better than it did on the Allspeed frame. Another bonus of this is bigger brakes as well.

So over the past month Iíve been gathering bit and making some changes.

I brought this mgf frame with Watsons side plates and suspension off the 16v Facebook page



Took all the old stuff out



Started mocking stuff up





Lucky my splitter covers the front of the frame

















Iíve moved the engine back about an inch from its standard position





Iím also building a stainless manifold keeping the turbo in the standard position



The only reason being so I can run an external waste gate to control the boost



This is where Iím at with it atm. Iíll try and keep it a bit more up dated from now on.


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Old 14-01-2018, 08:26 PM   #390
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Looking very good man, top work!
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