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Old 24-08-2010, 09:26 PM   #16
dizzie
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cleaning and painting calipers, didnt split them down for some reason, of whice i cant remmeber. just masked them up for painting






pipes all flared ready to run


pipes all run up front, still havnt done rear brake lines yet, im going to run them when i run fuel lines, bolt on the drums i got that are in good condition. ( the existing ones have holes rusted through the drums and back plates.) and mount up the rest of the exhaust.
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Old 24-08-2010, 10:21 PM   #17
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steering wise im using a redband rack, hopefully will feel minish, im going to start of with the rover 200 wheel for the time being, then use a 10 inch wheel see how it feels. if thats too much effort il jump up to 11"

i chopped of 4" from the botom half of the coloum and cut a uj in half clamped back on to the shaft and welded it on. i went over it about 4 times to make sure it would never budge.
if it feels like ive not cut enough off i can always cut it down more.
but still havnt got it drving yet, so i cant realy get a good feel for the driving position.

welds neatend up


getting my head round how high i want it too sit.
also im not going to be using these seats, i dont want to get my new yellow/black sweude one dirty il get a photo of those up soon too.



in this one you can see the spreader plates for the rear subby mounts, in 4mm steel


starting off on the bracketry.





perfect space for the fuse box, accessable but out the way


all the bracing to stop it moving at all




the crossmember was flexing so put the two peices in behind it for bracing that you can see well in these two photos
and i know its a bit over kill, i just dont want it moving




il add a small bolt through it to fix the coloum in a hight that feels comfy when i get my seats in.
i was thinking maby a small bolt maby cut half way through its diameter, for worst case senario of front impact, the bolt would snap and the coloum would pivot on the big bolt through it swinging up wards and away from my head as the subframes pushed back.

and opionions on that???



it looks alright, but im prety sure that ive gone and set it so it comes out at an angle. its difficult to tell because my drives not level and the cars sat on it sideways. bellend!
if it feels on the grapes when its on the road il just have to do a bit of jiggery pokery with the grinder and welder again.
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Old 27-08-2010, 12:46 PM   #18
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Great work matey!... cant believe how much rot you discovered!! credit to you for getting on with it!!...

Good deal with the donar car too!!...

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Old 28-08-2010, 02:27 PM   #19
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cheers mate.

yer it was in an awful state! it was a "i wish id never started" sort of thing haha

i was happy with 500! would have been better getting a mgf tho because ive had to buy a subframe, calipers and some other stuff that i would have got with an mgf.
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Old 31-08-2010, 10:20 PM   #20
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this was around june.

definatly great to see and engine back in it!! and happy with the black/yellow. hamerite, got to love it



notice the skateboard, best house hold object for moving a engine!


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Old 31-08-2010, 10:41 PM   #21
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the way i figured was that if i got all the wiring in and tested every thing first and got it running, if it wouldnt start or something wouldnt work after i shortened the loom id know it was my falt.

wheres it all gona go!!!




got some lights shining



hooked the battery up, it was the one out of the donar and had been sat around for a while, so i need to jump it too get it to crank


and after trying to get it to fire up for aggges! and going round every thing to check for loose wires.
i still couldnt get it to start???!

and it clicked the trigger pattern on the flywheel was wrong! duh!

so down to a scrappies to raid a 216
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Old 02-09-2010, 11:17 PM   #22
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went down to a rover breakers near me, had an engine and gearbox out already which made life a bit easyer.


box back off

a couple of improvised ways of stopping the flywheel from turning


while i had the gearbox back off i thought might as well pop on a new clutch


il put a first start vid up tommorrow
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Old 03-09-2010, 05:15 PM   #23
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Looking good mate. Will be a tool when it finished but im not really feeling the yellow!!!
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Old 04-09-2010, 11:21 PM   #24
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cheers matt, and love your build by the way mate, more or less copied what you did with mini top arms ect at the beggining of your build.

ahh no way, im well in to the yellow/black combo. i think it does look better in person.
although today i was thinking i wish i did the subframe and stuff in white.


first start vid, im not sure how to get it the right way round oh well haha
when it was just about to fire the neg lead popped off the terminal



the exhaust manifold was touching the fiberglass on the front end, so for the time being untill i get round to making a decient flowing manifold ive just chopped this one back a bit.
its more restrictive but for now will do the trick.


a quick spray with some paint


rests alot closer to the sump, so hopfully i wont scuff it as much on speed bumps
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Old 11-09-2010, 11:16 PM   #25
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so next job was to shorten down all the loom that was in the car.
i lost count of how many wires i solderd together! it took my a few days to get all good. used heat shrink on all the solders as well





the pile of stuff that got cut out, removed the abs loom as well


where the ecu is in this photo is roughly where it will end up. and the engine fuse box is going to be mounted on the left hand side of the dash area. so with those both there its cleans up the engine bay a little bit more.

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Old 14-09-2010, 06:43 PM   #26
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nice build mate! don't suppose you've still got the mgf engine and gearbox mounts? i noticed the engine mount in the background of the first pic on this page! desprate for some for my project let me know if you want to sell them!!!

sorry just realised you got the engine out of a 200!

any reason why you didnt use the pg1 box?

Last edited by fatlad; 14-09-2010 at 06:47 PM.
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Old 14-09-2010, 10:02 PM   #27
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cheers mate! yer it was a 200, sooo i never actualy had them in the first place haha.

well i had every thing to bolt a r65 straight in and didnt have to mess around getting mount drive shafts ect. i still have the pg1, but gona concentrate on getting it on the road as is at the moment. down the line when i start getting a bit extra power out of it il build up the pg1 with good ratios and a lsd of one of the other rovers and bang that in for some more traction.
but im in no rush.

update! the car moved under its own steam yesterday! only about 2 foot as still no brakes and im scared itl get stuck in gear and the throttle wide open or somthing stupid haha. but im still happy about it

i realy need to get up to date on my photos on this build!!
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Old 16-09-2010, 11:19 AM   #28
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well done mate, good progress being made!
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Old 04-10-2010, 12:02 AM   #29
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finaly got some energy to do a up date and get some more photos up.
its been a busy couple weeks with work so didnt get any time on the car, but its looking like a few weeks untill mot time now hopfully.

the rad im using is off a early mk1 micra. since i fitted it ive had the car running for half and hour and the temp didnt go over half way. so should be fine. obviously havnt revved the bolloks of it yet so yet to see how it does. if it doesnt do the trick ive got a mk 3 golf rad thats just a little bigger.

the beer box cardboard was to stop me from knackering it haha.


cut off the filler cap, and the spout that came out the side as it was causing clearence problems.
and 2p peices just happen to be the right size to solvent in haha.


used the middle one wich is off the micra.


mounted here solid onto the block and another off the gear box and then a 3rd rubber onto the subframe.










made a remote stat housing.



cut in some barbs



il put some pics of pipe work up another time
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Old 04-10-2010, 07:14 AM   #30
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If you've half mounted your rad to the block and half to the frame it's only a matter of time before something breaks due to movement.
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