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Old 20-12-2017, 07:41 PM   #136
will16
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Abingdon, Oxforshire
Posts: 178
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: K Maps 170
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Been neglecting the car recently, been running spot on though! Did a slippy track session at silverstone for Trax back in October and the cars sat since. I've got a big list of things to do over winter, I'd like a 13s 1/4, so I built up a C7 box with a torsen, this is my 2nd attempt at building a pg1 but it went together alot smoother so I'm hoping it will be gravy!

I wanted to sort out something thats been bugging me, the engines always sat on the p!ss, this is due to me overcompensating for how much I thought the Rover engine mount would sag, this also meant the passenger side driveshaft cv gaiter rubbed on the frame rail, nice and messy Stripped the car down and redrilled the gearbox mount side today, will bring the welder home and put some strengthening plates on it





Can see how wonky it was here





Made sure the car was level


Leveled


Drilled


Front still fits, just! Cam cover needed some clearancing


Gaiter has way more clearance now, was touching frame rail before


Been having some fun with this in the mean while
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Old 13-01-2018, 04:01 PM   #137
will16
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Abingdon, Oxforshire
Posts: 178
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: K Maps 170
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With moving the engine, it altered my engine position so that the rear engine steady didnt fit. With some advice off here I made a new one using a series polybush's and tube and modified the solid rose joint front steady to make it less harsh. Then the engine could come out for the gearbox change and I wanted to tidy up the bay a bit as I wasnt keen on it as it was very cluttered and 'thrown in'. I'm not going for a full shaved bay, the engines been in and out more times than I can remember now so properly tucking everything would be a nightmare! The wiper motor got moved behind the bulkhead, a lot of the wiring was simple to do and unplugged and replugged behind the dash. Also I copied what Gaz has done and got rid of the inner wing braces and boxed the ends in, made some dimple dies at work so put them to use The bay got a colour change too, I wish Iíd spent a little more time to prep the bay and get it really smooth, but Iím happy with how its come out for a rattle can job

Plated round the old hole








Exhaust flexi and gearbox have been rubbed a little


Wiper motor
[

Start of the bay








garage set up


How the bay came out, its shinier than it looks
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Old 13-01-2018, 07:37 PM   #138
gazwad
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Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: northampton
Posts: 1,803
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
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I like the dimple holes, looks very neat
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Old 13-01-2018, 08:49 PM   #139
gadget555
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Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Strichen Aberdeenshire
Posts: 1,107
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1800
Make: Rover
ECU: K maps 160 Race
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How are you going to stop the gap between your new strengtheners and the original inner wing filling up with water and crud?
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Old 13-01-2018, 09:26 PM   #140
Chris16v
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Norfolk
Posts: 484
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8 t
Make: Rover
ECU: Emerald K6
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Love the dimple die!
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Old 14-01-2018, 05:13 PM   #141
will16
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Abingdon, Oxforshire
Posts: 178
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1796
Make: Rover
ECU: K Maps 170
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Thanks guy, appreciate it Tbh I hadnt thought about them filling up, I'm going to cavity wax them and probably drill a drain hole

Made a start on the metal front end. Now if your thinking Iíve made it hard for myself using the original passenger wing and part of the front panel and wondering why Iíve done it like that, so did I once I had started Worked out ok in the end, still needs finishing off but I was nursing a hangover. Also put some stuff back in the bay, bought a nice owens motorsport expansion bottle. The normal rover plastic tank cap opens at 1 bar, I went for a 15 lbs mini cap which is a close value. Thats everything in the bay that will be there, apart from the ecu. Also sprayed the subframe ends black, Iím trying to hide the conversion a bit









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Old 15-01-2018, 03:04 PM   #142
asahartz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will16 View Post
With moving the engine, it altered my engine position so that the rear engine steady didnt fit. With some advice off here I made a new one using a series polybush's and tube and modified the solid rose joint front steady to make it less harsh.
Personally I wouldn't have used that polybush - my 1275 A-series shredded one in a fairly short time and I went back to rubber which has a bit more give.
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