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#16 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: west yorkshire
Posts: 3,833
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1800cc
Make: Other
ECU: Megasquirt MX5 Pnp
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Could you post the link up please? I'm curious as well
![]() Paul |
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#17 | |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Brum
Posts: 345
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Regards Blue |
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#18 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 1,109
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1600
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
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#19 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Whitworth, Lancashire
Posts: 5,485
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8
Make: Rover
ECU: Emerald K6
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Looks similar to the Sarnafil roofing I use, much more DIY friendly though.
Good stuff! |
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#20 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 1,109
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1600
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
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The bananasty weather we have had in July (not a single dry day) has really slowed progress down on my garage build but been plodding along slowly between showers and under a tarp : (
Main structure is now complete, clad and painted, roof is on and today I got the underfelt on. Windows are in, side door is hung and ive started building the the front doors. Bit time consuming these as there is 12 mortice and tenon joints and each one is drilled for glued dowels. Anyway some pics... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#21 |
Senior Member
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Man cave
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#22 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 1,109
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1600
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
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Well the garage has been finished for a while now but got filled so quickly with junk that the mini hasnt ever made it in : (
Starting clearing it out at the weekend and to my horror found a damp patch at the bottom of one on the platerboard sheets, which I removed to find the insulation was wet. Turns out the water running off the roof has been splashing up from the ground and into a small void at the bottom of the external cladding, soaking the inside of the cladding and the insulation. So this week will see me strip out the entire inside of the garage, shelves, cabinets tools, elecrical conduit, big bolted to walls work bench etc then remove all the platerboard and insulation before leaving it to dry out. I cant explain how grapesed off I am at the moment - mini should have been coming here this week but now its going to be another long delay ![]() |
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#23 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Oxford
Posts: 466
Subframe: Allspeed
CC: 1800cc
Make: Honda
ECU: Standard
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to top it off you could of got an inspection hole in the ground but this looks lush either way
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#24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 1,109
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1600
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
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Stripped the internal plaster board walls off tonight and worked out the moisture has got in between some of the tongue and groove joints in the cladding.
Not sure how this can be as they all seem the same, some are soaking, some are damp but most are fine ![]() Will post pics tomorrow if anyone gives a melons... |
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#25 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Whitworth, Lancashire
Posts: 5,485
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8
Make: Rover
ECU: Emerald K6
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You could try running a line of caulk down the joints, only problem is, it would have to dry before it could get wet, other option would be to use silicone, but it isn't over paintable.
Just went to have a look at the pics of the build and noticed there isn't a breathable membrane between the cladding and stud work, that would certainly help, but would mean stripping back all of the cladding. A final option would be to replace the cladding for a shiplap cladding, this would form a drip at every join and prevent the joints getting wet.
__________________
Last edited by InstantCustard; 14-01-2014 at 08:30 AM. |
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#26 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 1,109
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1600
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
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I was thinking brown frame sealant would maybe the way to go but there is about 300m of joins over the whole garage - feck!
You'll see from previous photos that I installed a plastic sheeting over the stud work before putting a spacer strip of wood down each vertical frame strut and then the cladding ontop of that - idea being there would be a breathing space between the cladding and the frame so I could then insulate and platerboard. The plastic sheeting wasnt the right stuff as it didnt stay tight enough with the bad weather there was while building it. I removed it and filled the void with insulation directly between cladding and plasterboard. Hindsight is a wonderful thing. Im going to let it dry out, then work out best way to stop the moisture getting through, probably seal all the tongue and grooves? |
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#27 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Whitworth, Lancashire
Posts: 5,485
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1.8
Make: Rover
ECU: Emerald K6
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If you seal the joints, I would personally use white or an off white decorators caulk as it would stain up pretty much the same colour, brown caulk will be darker.
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#28 |
Senior Member
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how about downspouts?
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#29 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 1,109
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1600
Make: Rover
ECU: standard
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Was just concerned that caulk would be flexible enough to shrink and expand with the wood during dry and wet spells? Would match better once painted though : )
Ive added gutters now aswell but not sure if it will make much difference to this problem as the side that is worse gets a sideways beating from the weather. cheers for the comments, keep them coming... |
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#30 |
Senior Member
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fold down tarp when the weather gets rough
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