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Old 05-11-2018, 10:24 AM   #1
Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 72
Default How to make a standard Honda clutch master cylinder work.

I had to pull my clutch master out today to put a seal kit through it - thought whilst I was at it I would measure up the parts in my clutch setup and post them here if they are of use to anybody running a honda B series.

My car uses a standard Honda/Nissin 5/8 master cylinder from a CR-X or civic.
I've seen a lot of posts here suggesting how to fit this unit and for the people that do there are a lot of comments that the clutch is very heavy to drive with - I'm guessing not all of those setups have applied any geometry correction to make up for the different pedal / master cylinder stroke lengths.
This is what I did on my car and I find it quite good to drive with.

Essentially, the master cylinder is moved towards the firewall with the stock honda unit. I found that when the master cylinder was fitted into the stock position the pedal only moves for about 2/3 to maybe 3/4 of its full range because the master bottoms out. I didn't want this or to have to fit a stopper because it would be heavy and uncomfortable, so by moving the master cylinder closer to the pedals pivot point I can have the pedal move the full amount of its stroke without the need for stoppers or anything, as well as the obvious advantage that the 'weight' in the pedal will be less due to more leverage over it.

The 12mm that the clevis pin hole is moved on the pedal is the main thing that makes this work. Ideally the bracket above should have the cylinder moved back the same amount. I only moved mine back 6mm at the top. It was a while ago now that I built it so I can't remember why this was so but I think its so that I didn't have to modify the holes in the bulkhead of the car or because I wanted to keep the plunger shaft angular movement as low as possible - in any case it works for me.

The height of the tube spacer shown in my image may differ from car to car depending on your clevis arrangement and any gaskets you may or may not have - also if you use a length of tube / pipe big enough to go over the end of the master cylinder you will find it very close to one of the holes for the pedal box stud to come up through - so a relief in the tube or changing to cap screws here may need to be done.

I'd be interested to hear from anyone that wants to give this a go and see if you think theres any improvement.
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Old 05-11-2018, 09:40 PM   #2
Sleepy Stu
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Worcester
Posts: 206
Subframe: Allspeed
CC: 1800
Make: Honda
ECU: Hondata S300v3

Actually many people have used the Honda master cylinder but those who do have used a spacer exactly the same as you have in yours to make it useable.

In its standard form with no modifications its very tough.
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