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Old 10-10-2018, 07:40 AM   #31
Oz
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Thanks but I've got a spare Y21.
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Old 28-10-2018, 11:36 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by hebby View Post
Iím currently building a b18, mine has the LSD as standard in the gear box, I used the original wiring loom & asked vdm motor sports to convert it to a stand alone loom, this was a lot cheaper than buying a new loom & an ecu the stock power should be enough for me as I only want to use the car on the road. I bought a complete car ( 1997 civic 4 door hatch back £750.00 ) then stripped it, kept the clocks & now wish I had also kept the heater !
Interesting to hear what other people are saying in regards to the difference between a 1.6 to the 1.8, in time if I get board of the power it will be more reliable to modify the engine with bolt on bits like a turbo and still give me plenty of smiles, Iím using the clubman front, not sure how much space there will be up front for a turbo, maybe mount it where the rear subframe was. I wanted more power & more of an up to date engine thatís reliable & fun, an a series with a lot of bhp can be a pig to drive in traffic, this should be a breeze when complete, Iím down in Whitby if you want to take a look but itís far from running yet


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Old 24-01-2019, 03:28 PM   #33
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Yes it probably is itís only a hobby after all, Iíve moved house 3 times, bought properties & sold them on, started & sold businesses started & finished relationships changed jobs several times all ways moving forward onto bigger & better things, the mini has always had work every year, some years more so than others. Last year lots of work has been done whilst I finish my degree, I shall soon by a clinical hypnotherapist, studying under a world recognised corse, this has taken two years to complete, my life style gives me enough time to study towards the life I want...the mini is always going to be a working progress & a learning curve for me, Iím no where near as skilled as some on here, Iím just skilled in other areas thatís more of challenge for me mentally, the mini will get built as time goes by, itís always been a marathon rather than a race for me.


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Old 05-05-2019, 08:57 AM   #34
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I have to say, from my experience, the B16 is fabulous in a Mini.
My car isn't that light, but it'll pootle round town, with enough torque at lower revs imho.
Give it the beans, pull through VTEC engagement, and it flies, with real exhilaration. No question, it's fun and very lively, although I am running the standard 4.4 final drive. Yes, you do have to drive it like a two-stroke to get the real hit, but don't discount the B16
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Old 05-05-2019, 09:17 AM   #35
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I’m currently in the process of converting from a stock b16a2 to a tuned b18cr so I’ll provide an update in the coming weeks hopefully
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Old 09-05-2019, 05:21 PM   #36
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just like to add something.
if you intend using the allspeed frame for the build, am i correct in saying that rob at allspeed mentioned his driveshafts will not work with the first generation b16a?
To do with first generation gearbox kicks the camber right out.
I only say this because my car is B16A2 from 1993 car, but have had major issues with the camber kicking out bad, and talking to rob, we thought i had a first generation gearbox, and he mentioned that the driveshafts will not work with that gearbox.
A quick phonecall to allspeed will confirm this.
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Old 13-07-2019, 12:22 PM   #37
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I’m currently in the process of converting from a stock b16a2 to a tuned b18cr so I’ll provide an update in the coming weeks hopefully
I was considering swapping my Watsons B16 for a B18 - Is there a difference in the various b18 models that make this swap harder or easier with that frame?

Not that I'm not still enjoying my B16
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Old 13-07-2019, 12:51 PM   #38
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I would have thought maybe just engine / gearbox mounts might be slightly different, drive shafts, gear link could possibly be slightly different.


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Old 15-07-2019, 07:53 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by TheFinn View Post
I was considering swapping my Watsons B16 for a B18 - Is there a difference in the various b18 models that make this swap harder or easier with that frame?

Not that I'm not still enjoying my B16
The B16 and B18 are identical save for the B18 is slightly taller. Unless you get a complete engine and box you can reuse your B16 gearbox. Even if you use the b18 box the gearbox mounts are the same. There are two types of engine side mount across the B series, the 2 post and 3 post. Your B16 should have the 2 post so you can either swap across your mount plates from the B16 or get a 3 post engine mount. If you buy a donor or get the chance to get the OEM engine side mount with the donor engine then that would help.

The gear linkage is identical and your exhaust should bolt up although if you have a 2" or less bore exhaust you'd be worth upsizing to 2.25" for a standard B18, 2.5" if you want all top end power and happy to sacrifice some low end torque.

If you get a B18C4 (usually Civic Aerodeck VTi fit in UK - known in the US as the GSR engine) then you'll also need a Skunk2 inlet/plenum as the B18C4 has a huge inlet that won't fit on a Mini and the bolt pattern is different so you can't use your B16 inlet. If you get a B18C6 (Type-R) then the inlet and bolt pattern are the same type as the B16.

Or you could fit throttle bodies !

Everything else of the Wastons frame should bolt up to the B18.

Last edited by Oz; 15-07-2019 at 07:59 AM.
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Old 16-07-2019, 04:26 PM   #40
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Or you could fit throttle bodies !
I've been looking at going this route but all options I find are really expensive. Have you seen ITBs for a reasonable price? Let me know
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Old 17-07-2019, 07:33 AM   #41
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I've been looking at going this route but all options I find are really expensive. Have you seen ITBs for a reasonable price? Let me know
It's not something I've looked in to. I think most people do ITBs with homemade manifolds and 2nd hand bike ITBs from eBay on a standalone ecu. I think there's a company called something like Boggs Brothers that will fabricate any kind of manifold you want as I've seen people talking about using their manifolds on here in the past.
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Old 17-07-2019, 08:16 AM   #42
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Bogg brothers are based in east Luton, itís a little village out side Scarborough, they are a rolling road tuning specialist, they are very good, used them myself in the past a few times and always been happy with the results. They are the company who started using bike carbs on grass tracking cars & ended up getting very well known for there work & becoming featured in a lot of car magazines because of it. There workmanship is too a very high standard. Iím sure if you gave them a call they would be able to give you a price over the phone as they have done loads in the past


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Old 13-08-2019, 03:06 PM   #43
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Right, I can now give some first hand experience and thoughts on this topic...

I moved from a boggo b16a2 on an OEM ECU - powersteering & A/C deleted. It had a Toyo sports 2 piece exhaust manifold/decat and thermal gaskets on the intake mani and throttle body. I’d guess it was pushing out around 165bhp, owing to the decat manifold. I’m running an s9b gearbox and I’ve run both the OEM final drive and the Watson’s 3.7.

I’ve moved to a JDM B18C(r), it’s cam’d with skunk2 tuner stage 2 cams, skimmed head running 13:1 compression. Updated valvetrain. 70mm throttle body & S300 ECU. It’s currently running 210bhp and 164lb ft on the rollers with a maxed out injector duty cycle at 8000rpm. Maybe 5-10 bhp left to go with some bigger injectors. I’ve also changed final drive to a 4.05 Mfactory and the Mfactory racepack diff.

Torque. What a difference. It picks up so much better out of vtec now, it’s less of a Jekyll and Hyde, it’s more of a Hyde and Hyde car now

It’s got the pep back it had when I was running a 4.2 final drive whilst 1st gear is actually usable. The biggest difference though was the diff, going from the Honda LSD to the Mfactory racepack - wow! It’s so much sharper and power transfer is almost seamless compared to the Honda. I’d equate it to as big of a change from open diff to OEM lsd - it’s really that much better.

Oil leak to fix, new injectors in and then it’s back to the rolling road for some final figures

Last edited by Haz; 14-08-2019 at 09:10 AM.
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Old 14-08-2019, 06:44 AM   #44
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That's a great write up and good info. What size wheels and tires are you running? And which drive and diff did you go with from Mfactory? Yes I'm still on the parts hoarding stage and haven't actually started a build in earnest.

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Old 14-08-2019, 07:32 AM   #45
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What made you change from a 3.7 to a 4.05 FD ? I looked at it and didn't think going from standard FD to a 4.05 was really much of a benefit looking at the differences on a gear calculator (cue Shaun )
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