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Old 12-09-2018, 05:50 PM   #181
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I remember having a read on the Elise forums about whether an LSD is a good idea in the RWD setup. There was a lot of talk of finding ditches!
Can't comment on mid engine rwd cars, but an lsd (plate type) in my old Escort completely transformed the whole driving experience, once you get used to it, you won't want to go back, though it might be a bit twitchy in a rwd Mini with such a short wheelbase. As for a fwd, that's when you are more likely to end up in a ditch
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Old 12-09-2018, 07:20 PM   #182
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The overall story of the LSD is I want this to be a fast road/track day car. On a track day you cannot overtake on corners so it's more a case of getting round the clear ones quickly. Staying on the tarmac is the most important thing for me.

I am not prepared to invest £700+ as a hope to gain a split second on a track day, where chances are I can power past most of them on the straights.

The turbo engine has a very poor reputation. Even on the Facebook group I joined, it's become apparent that it's a bit of a black art. More people giving up than starting projects.

My plan is to try and get this reliable and prove the doubters wrong.
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Old 12-09-2018, 08:32 PM   #183
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It's true that £700 is a worthwhile saving , and you don't need it makes it a good choice at the moment,
But the thing is that lets say we have 2 wheels driving anything, regardless of what it is, when one wheel lifts it takes rubber off the ground and smokes it up and looses forward drive motion, that costs time and rubber,
If 2 wheels are driving forward at once it's a big help regardless if the wheels are at the front or at the back,
Not that it matters in your case Andrew ,
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Old 13-09-2018, 12:43 AM   #184
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As Iíve mentioned to Andrew, Quaife actually make a diff which is designed for rear engined cars like the Elise etc.
Cool, logic would say that a RWD specific diff would exist but I'd never heard of one!

Still, getting a RWD, turbo K series mini up and running is enough of a challenge before committing another £700 to it
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Old 13-09-2018, 07:58 AM   #185
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Cool, logic would say that a RWD specific diff would exist but I'd never heard of one!



Still, getting a RWD, turbo K series mini up and running is enough of a challenge before committing another £700 to it


I agree, I told Andrew I didnít think it was required in a RWD application because the balance shift on hard acceleration puts weight onto the drive wheels and the only reason why heíd want a diff in Scorpion was to help put power down.


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Old 13-09-2018, 04:31 PM   #186
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Weld it up lol

I had a welded diff in the back of my mk3 Supra and it was awesome, strangely more traction than an lsd and so predictable once the tyres do loose traction. Loved that thing, it ate bushes for breakfast and eventually the bearings died but was great fun while it lasted!
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Old 03-08-2019, 11:12 PM   #187
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Doesn't time fly when you are enjoying yourself!

So some people know the story but I will give an outline on here. My other Mini was Phoenix which I had a high speed crash at Castle Coombe in September last year. I was ok but it suffered major bodywork damage. This took a few months to get back on the road. I had a few teething issues but eventually got it back running and in better condition than it ever was. Keith and myself went on the North Coast 500 run. We completed 1200 miles in 4 days. In my mind this proved how good the car was so decided to sell it to allow my time to be spent on Scorpion which has sat patiently waiting for almost a year.

I needed to make some space in my garage. Many of you will know it's a tip but always seems to have the bits people are wanting! So I had a sale and now can see some floor again.

So today I have actually continued working on Scorpion. The drama continues but I am not phased anymore by the total lack of luck I am having.

I want to strip the rear subframe, clean and paint it. Then check all the components for wear and replace as needed. Lots of seized bolts to deal with. Nothing is easy.



This is the worst area. Seems to have held the road dirt. I have cleaned it up and checked it for strength. All seems good.

Removed the rubber cones with Hi Lo's. The cones had corroded onto the Hi Lo and had to smash them to bits to save them. They pulled apart the knuckle joints.



The Hi Lo's were seized up. Took a lot of elbow grease and oil to get them freed off but I have managed.



I wanted to swap the rear discs so needed to remove the calipers. The bolts were not tight at all (maybe better than stuck) but the sliders had seized. After a little persuasion they came out so oiled them and put them to one side. The pads have seen better days.



The counter sunk bolts holding the discs had no screwdriver slots as had been rounded off. I had to drill them out. The discs were stuck onto the hubs. Tapping them off meant the hubs came apart.



So finally got around to cleaning up the frame. Not quite finished but ran out of time today. I need to order some parts to get this ready to put the engine/box back in.



My mate has Scorpion in his garage but has asked me to move it. I want to get the rear frame ready to drop the shell on ASAP. That way it doesn't take up too much garage space.
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Old 04-08-2019, 01:20 PM   #188
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That looks like a bloody nightmare, but good to see you're back at it!
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Old 05-08-2019, 12:28 PM   #189
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Just finished reading the whole thread, you've certainly had some bad luck there, hopefully it's starting to go back together now.

I'm also building a mid engined Mini so this thread made interesting reading, can you clarify exactly what brakes your using on the front and rear please? Are the front hubs/brakes adaptable to fit a mini subframe?

Interesting regarding the lag you'll have with FMIC, I was considering a charge cooled system, then the intercooler pipes will be very short. With a charge cooling system you can also use the air conditioning system to chill the water in the charge cooler there by getting very low intake temperatures, lower than ambient in fact, but using an Interchiller adds a lot of cost.
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Old 05-08-2019, 01:20 PM   #190
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Originally Posted by Ronski View Post
Just finished reading the whole thread, you've certainly had some bad luck there, hopefully it's starting to go back together now.

I'm also building a mid engined Mini so this thread made interesting reading, can you clarify exactly what brakes your using on the front and rear please? Are the front hubs/brakes adaptable to fit a mini subframe?

Interesting regarding the lag you'll have with FMIC, I was considering a charge cooled system, then the intercooler pipes will be very short. With a charge cooling system you can also use the air conditioning system to chill the water in the charge cooler there by getting very low intake temperatures, lower than ambient in fact, but using an Interchiller adds a lot of cost.
Both subframes are a narrowed down MG F frames. The car has the brakes from the donor but I am about to fit the huge AP 4 pots from a MG TF 160 with the 304mm discs. That's why I need the 16" wheels.

I don't think the hubs have ever been adapted to suit a Mini frame meaning that the brakes I am using wouldn't be suitable.

Having driven quite a few turbo cars, I feel the lag in almost all of them. I have been told by quite a lot of people not to worry about the long pipes. It may help with grip as the power will not be as harsh until on boost. Only time will tell on that...
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Old 05-08-2019, 02:44 PM   #191
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Thanks for the quick reply, I've added the info to my notes.
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Old 06-08-2019, 07:33 AM   #192
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Originally Posted by Ronski View Post
I'm also building a mid engined Mini so this thread made interesting reading, can you clarify exactly what brakes your using on the front and rear please? Are the front hubs/brakes adaptable to fit a mini subframe?
https://www.16vminiclub.com/showthre...=brakes&page=4

Some pic and chat on this thread (page 4 onwards) of how K series hubs were fitted to a Mini based frame. Mods needed to bottom arm to accept the Metro/MGF lower balljoint.

HTH
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Old 07-08-2019, 05:21 PM   #193
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That's very useful info, thanks very much.
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Old 08-08-2019, 09:25 AM   #194
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No worries.

I can't remember if it was discussed on there but the taper of the top balljoints are different between the Mini and Metro/MGF top arms so you have to swap the Metro/MGF top balljoint for an early A series Metro top balljoint that is a direct fit to the Metro/MGF hub. Minispares stock them as they are used in the aftermarket billet Mini hubs that a few Mini places sell.

Also bear in mind that the Metro/MGF PCD is 4x3.75" whereas the Mini PCD is 4x4" so Mini wheels don't fit unless you redrill the drive flange and discs to 4x4"
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Old 08-08-2019, 12:31 PM   #195
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You would have thought that the owner would have kept the subframe and arms clean having spent all that time and money building it!
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