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Old 18-05-2017, 12:52 PM   #151
edk83
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I've got 350mm lines now and they make a nice even loop

Pedal box fitted properly, feed lines all made up. Throttle mostly done, needs joining and testing.





Got myself a footplate and laid out the fuel lines Not much garage time allowed at the moment so slow progress made slower with everything now being time consuming.

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Old 18-05-2017, 03:26 PM   #152
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Interior is starting to look good mate, it's all coming together nicely
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Old 18-05-2017, 04:10 PM   #153
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Thanks I think the theme of the interior is starting to show.
Still have to prep and paint the outside, doors, bonnet, everything!
Hopefully this year!
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Old 04-06-2017, 07:51 AM   #154
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Brake masters now have banjos ready, going to run braided to the bulkhead then hardline, clutch will be all briaded. Got the light switch on the rear master.



Fuel lines now all routed and conected I've got a pressure gauge so that has a sender too.





Rover fuel filter with the hardline bit from a rover 45, using the oem high pressure quick release.



Battery connectons made Earth via the cut off on the dash, just need to add another engine earth. Found that the ZR gearbox earthing bolt hole which I was going to use on the mgf pg1 is not tapped!

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Old 13-06-2017, 09:31 PM   #155
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My Allegro is feeling horny



Now that the power wires are done I've just spun the engine over on the starter for the first time since the belts were done. Nothing exploded and it didnt try to run me over! Good to spin the alternator and those bits as the belt is tourqued up.

Just packing a spare ecu to be remapped, finishing the exhaust and bits this weekend then I can test the fuel system and start the wiring!
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Old 14-06-2017, 11:03 PM   #156
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Acewell reed sensor mounted using the handy bracket that would have held the cable gear selector on the mgf

Just need to finish it up and somehow attach the magnet to the driveshaft. I'm thinking welding it would cause it to loose its magnetism, maybe 2 pac glue and a cable tie?



Next job is making front arb droplinks, due to the arb being mounted about 3" lower than it would be on a Rover 100 going above the wishbone is not a good fit. It fits rather well under the wishbone but the original mounting holes then don't line up well. I'm thinking about welding these big nuts onto the back of the wishbones and mounting them there. I could change the size of the spacer to alter where the bar sits and the nuts are m12 so plenty of room for the link bolt to move inside them.




Last edited by edk83; 14-06-2017 at 11:08 PM.
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Old 15-06-2017, 12:15 AM   #157
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love this and love seeing it get closer to the road stage,
hate to be the TOP QWOTE OF THE DAY FROM MIKKO "IMOSIONLESS ANDRIOD"
the anti roll bar with that length mounting bar will / may undergo a double twist
and not work,
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Old 15-06-2017, 11:52 AM   #158
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The links are the original rover 100 ones I've just made them a bit shorter and planning on relocating where they mount by about 20mm.

I think it should work but just wondering as suspension is a black art.
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Old 15-06-2017, 11:53 AM   #159
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If your Acewell doesn't like the magnet sensor, I used to find mine unreliable the speedo would jump all over the place, replace it with a T006 from From Here
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Old 15-06-2017, 03:59 PM   #160
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Cheers The book says it needs to be within 8mm and I measure it at 4mm.

I bought the Acewell from someone on here, cant remember who now.

Does your Acewell show the current gear as well, looking forward to seeing how that works?
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Old 15-06-2017, 05:49 PM   #161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edk83 View Post
Does your Acewell show the current gear as well, looking forward to seeing how that works?
Not got it anymore replaced it with MGF clocks, but it didn't it was a cheaply & one of the first they made
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Old 16-06-2017, 12:11 AM   #162
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edk83 View Post
The links are the original rover 100 ones I've just made them a bit shorter and planning on relocating where they mount by about 20mm.

I think it should work but just wondering as suspension is a black art.
black as white can be
must admit i was doing a late nite cruse hear and looking and through the scotch goggles your link bar jumped out as to long and soft rubberd.

just coz the sprung bar moves all over the place under hard correction,
so i followed my thoughts and sai,, i didnt exsplain properly coz i couldent lol,
so i acutuly manged to google arb and yes i found a load of useless info lol
but in amongest it was some talk about the link bars being under stress ect,
so felt ok with bringing it to the table,,
then rememberd seeing some bent links in the past for obviouce reasons,
so not shure how that afects you but wont know yet,,
just hope it may help you in your thoughts and desighn,
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Old 16-06-2017, 08:39 AM   #163
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Haha thanks lol. No way of really knowing until it's road tested, the car is currently sitting on its wheels with the engine in so the wishbones are pretty much in position.

I'm going to weld those big nuts onto the back of them, no loss if it doesn't work out as they don't effect anything else and can just stay there. The rear arb setup does seem to work quite well, there is a lot more suspension travel at the rear so the links do move on their arc a fair way, all clears though!
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Old 18-06-2017, 10:51 PM   #164
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Hornet exhaust kit all welded up this weekend.



Not a clamp in sight Other than the stainless tailpipe I'll give it a coat of black heat paint.



Arb mounts all done, seems to have worked out well but I'm going to customise the links a bit.
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Old 19-06-2017, 05:09 AM   #165
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That's going to be fun to fit as 1 piece!


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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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