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Old 10-05-2017, 08:48 PM   #31
gazwad
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I'm with denis on this, seems like typical HGF (and I'm reluctant to say that unless I'm convinced). I have seen them before doing exactly as yours is, with no mixing of fluids, no drop of compression and even appearing clean on sniff tests etc. In fact I did one for a friend a few months ago with those exact symptoms, it ran fine for months and only over pressurised after very hard driving, no mixing of fluids, passed a sniff test etc, we changed almost the whole cooling system first as there were no signs of hgf. In the end we did the HG and it was instantly cured (had a bananasty pattern mls gasket on it).
I would just do the hg before the head is cooked and goes soft, it's not a big or expensive job really and at least you will know there is a good quality gasket in there (use genuine payen).
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Old 10-05-2017, 09:41 PM   #32
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I certainly won't ignore any comments, even if I don't agree with them!

Until the tank holds some pressure, there is no way I am changing a head gasket!

I understand what has been said and monitor the water level regularly. Just top up as needed.

It gets even warmer than normal.

Edit...

I have done a little research and the reason these are pressurised is to increase the coolant boiling point to over 120 degrees C at 1 bar (15psi). It sounds like my problem, just need to visit local scrappy to find an alternate tank type.
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Old 24-05-2017, 12:55 AM   #33
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A bit slow getting this sorted.

I have bought an expansion tank and cap from an Audi A3 petrol. I fitted the test valve and blocked the main pipe. This holds 1.5 bar. It releases slowly above that until 2 bar then opens fully so that is max pressure.

Hoping to fit this over the weekend.
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Old 24-05-2017, 04:26 PM   #34
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Will be good to hear if the Audi tanks solves it, I've just mounted my Zr tank so sort of annoying!

Yeah normal coolant is under pressure to raise the boiling temp as when it boils it not effective, super heated vapour doesn't cool so you get a runaway overheat with pressure loss or just steam if the engine is shut off.

I'm still hoping by using the 180 degree boiling point Evans stuff it will help, doesn't expand or create any pressure but it's not quite as efficient at cooling as water and coolant, engine is said to run a couple of degrees hotter but there is less stress on everything and it lasts much longer. Give it a go and see what temps I get wont have to worry about the header tank holding pressure so much though.

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Old 27-05-2017, 06:21 PM   #35
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Fitted the tank today. Was tight but it's in!



Need a track day now...
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Old 19-06-2017, 01:19 PM   #36
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So after how ever many months this has now taken it's toll. A visit to the 3 Sisters circuit has finally proved the head gasket has failed.

It has been drinking water but general running about has been fine. But on this trip, it was not right. The temp was just above normal but this was a 26 degree day. The fan was on most of the time which is unusual. Checked water and it had dropped. But then it started to misfire. Just occasionally but still there. As the day went on it would idle very lumpy. Coming home temp would fluctuate between a quarter and half. It normally sits just below half and never moves. So nursed it home with a stop to top up the water.

Decided to get the head off to investigate. At first nothing looked wrong. But with closer inspection the head has deep indentations around the fire rings. You can also see the water has gone through into the water jacket. So the issue is the head rather than the gasket.



The thing is, there isn't much metal left to skim.



At least the block and liners look ok...



Head is down at local engineering shop having a strip down, skim and rebuild.
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Old 19-06-2017, 01:28 PM   #37
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Is it a VVC or standard, if standard & you need to replace I did have a spare tucked away if needed.
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Old 19-06-2017, 01:32 PM   #38
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Hiya,

Just be careful that the ally hasn't been annealed on the fire ring area as this will permanently soften the material and it may not be long before the fire areas are leaking again.

With so little left on the head to skim would it be better to try and source a 2nd hand one that doesn't have the fire ring damage?

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Old 19-06-2017, 01:37 PM   #39
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It is a VVC head. I actually do have a spare but this one has been ported so would be a shame to have to do all that work all over again.

The place I have taken it doesn't have a hardness test machine.
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Old 19-06-2017, 01:48 PM   #40
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Are you going to go for one of the newer N series gaskets?
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Old 19-06-2017, 03:02 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MikeR33 View Post
Are you going to go for one of the newer N series gaskets?
No. I have decided to use the original type Payen gaskets. With the liners just being flush it is meant to be a bit more forgiving. Saying that, it was the head rather than gasket that has given up this time.
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Old 19-06-2017, 03:11 PM   #42
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Try and get a payen bw750 blue polymer - they seem to be the best in my experience (and according to dave andrews as well).

I have to say though, usually if the fire rings have dug in then that's an indication the head has gone soft, although you may be lucky and get away with it.
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Old 19-06-2017, 03:55 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazwad View Post
Try and get a payen bw750 blue polymer - they seem to be the best in my experience (and according to dave andrews as well).

I have to say though, usually if the fire rings have dug in then that's an indication the head has gone soft, although you may be lucky and get away with it.
I'm using this Payen BW750 with an stainless head saver shim that you wellseal to the cylinder head face on my turbo..i believe the head saver shim could make a soft head usable.
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Old 19-06-2017, 07:30 PM   #44
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I'm using this Payen BW750 with an stainless head saver shim that you wellseal to the cylinder head face on my turbo..i believe the head saver shim could make a soft head usable.
the headsaver(i.e.proper .5mm headsaver from payen) and wellseal combo works fine but the head needs to be freshly skimmed.
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Old 21-06-2017, 03:43 PM   #45
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Got the head back from reconditioners. It's been skimmed and the little lugs are just visible so this is going to be it's last skim. Had the head fully stripped, valves lapped, seals changed etc.

It has been suggested to use a saver shim. I have done some research and this is purely to correct compression after the head has been skimmed beyond it's standard limit e.i. below the little lugs. As these are still visible and the fact the shim costs more than a full head set, I have decided not to fit one. I will be using the Payen gasket.

http://www.gosnays.co.uk/acatalog/SaverShims.html

I am fully aware this engine could potentially fail after a short time as everything is at minimum tolerances. But who knows as it has all come within the standard spec. It's done 130,000 miles and a lot of track time in that too. I don't think that's bad at all.

I have taken tomorrow night off work as want to build this up ASAP due to booking to go on a camping weekend on Friday...

Fingers crossed all goes well...
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