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Old 08-10-2008, 07:46 AM   #16
Mini Vlatko
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fbm-spec...you said you bind your first frame looking exactly like mine...does that mean it doesnt work well or you just didnt liked it?

gary...you persuaded me...will take it to be professionally welded

Anyway I will try to make a 4th mout today just to be sure! pics to come

Vlatko
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Old 08-10-2008, 09:13 AM   #17
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If you're worried about your welds, the only way you can satisfy yourself is to weld a test piece and then smash it apart with a very big hammer. If the weld is good, the parent metal will break rather than the weld.
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Old 08-10-2008, 09:40 AM   #18
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I would not pay to have the welding done I would do it myself, looking at your pictures the welds look better than some I have seen in the build diary area.

Once the mini is on the road you can inspect the frame for possible problems on a regular basis.

If you are still worried then do a test piece as mentioned and cut up/destroy to reassure yourself it is strong enough.
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Old 08-10-2008, 09:51 AM   #19
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Out of curiosity, wich part of the frame would be the most "lethal" if it broke? Tie bar mount area?
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Old 08-10-2008, 11:38 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marcus Nordblom
Out of curiosity, wich part of the frame would be the most "lethal" if it broke? Tie bar mount area?
I'm gonna guess and say any part which causes the steering to go wrong if it snapped! So all the suspension mounting points for a start...
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Old 08-10-2008, 03:38 PM   #21
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in my photo you have all i did was slot a piece of 6mm amnd welded it to the side of strut. and the same on the engine but drilled two holes in the piece and bolted them to the old altinater bracket mounting. i sloted them as it just makes it easyer to slide the mount in rather than trying to line all the holes up when putting the engine in.
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Old 08-10-2008, 06:19 PM   #22
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The way you have slotted the bolt holes on the back mount look a weak area. If you reverse hard stands a chance it will pull out. I reckon you best off with 4 mounts and a stabilizer on the gear box side, i did that with my allspeed frame as thats how i broke enigine mounts. The enigine was twisting under heavy launch. I test mine hard, there is always a way to break somethin when its abused
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Old 08-10-2008, 06:53 PM   #23
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Its not the engine power that will break the weld its taking a corner at high speed. The stronger the frame the better it will handle because all the suspension angles wont change, but a weak frame will flex and you might as well not set up the suspension. The frame welds look ok but for around 30 to have it welded properly its worth it in the longrun.
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Old 08-10-2008, 08:17 PM   #24
Mini Vlatko
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Just like I said!
Went today in my garage and did me a 4th mount
Took me about 2 hours!
I also slotted both sides so that mount can be inserted from the bottom side...makes a lot easier to remove the engine...just like Aband said
I'm thinking of slotting other brackets too...what do you think about it?
I didnt tried to fit the frame to the car so far but it didnt looked like peace of cake removing the engine from the frame...had to tilt it a lot...in fact I ended up with removing the subby from the engine lol













And my subby as 80% finished...i think

It will look even better as I get it pro welded (arranged it today ), sandblasted and painted!
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:41 PM   #25
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Quote:
The way you have slotted the bolt holes on the back mount look a weak area. If you reverse hard stands a chance it will pull out. I reckon you best off with 4 mounts and a stabilizer on the gear box side, i did that with my allspeed frame as thats how i broke enigine mounts. The enigine was twisting under heavy launch. I test mine hard, there is always a way to break somethin when its abused
i abused mine round combe but not at that higher speed due to a ristriction. but it handled alot! better than i thought at ive had the engine out since then and checked all the mounting points and there fine for now. will see how it goes but no problems yet. there slotted diagnally so it shouldn't move, need a test two to come up soon.
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Old 09-10-2008, 08:52 PM   #26
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nice looking frame!

and that 4th mount is a very good idea. my subframe (which looks a lot like yours) was using just the 3 mounts, and after 1000miles i've snapped the rear cross bar (which the back engine mount is welded to) off the subframe at the welds. When i repair mine, i'll be adding a 4th mount almost exactly like yours.

Keep up the nice work! and your welds look pretty decent to me but i'm no pro

(oh and i'm jealous of the 'opel' plug covers! i've got a couple spare 'vauxhall' ones, fancy a swap? :P )
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:43 PM   #27
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does look very similar to xevalvers frame
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Old 09-10-2008, 09:54 PM   #28
Mini Vlatko
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First I must say that I found most of my inspiration in your frame (obviously ) and that Im VERY glad that you like my 4th mount

Its not that difficult to make one once you have your engine positioned!

Quote:
(oh and i'm jealous of the 'opel' plug covers! i've got a couple spare 'vauxhall' ones, fancy a swap? Razz Laughing )
To be honest with you...I was about to look for a Vauxhall plug cover just to be different from all that standard Opels on our streets and lot of people dont even know what Vauxhall is...so YES...would like to swap you

I was looking for something like this...


Last edited by Mini Vlatko; 28-02-2010 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 10-10-2008, 06:57 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mini Vlatko
fbm-spec...you said you bind your first frame looking exactly like mine...does that mean it doesnt work well or you just didnt liked it?
Vlatko
I didn't finish it completely. I wasn't happy with clearance issues at the gearbox end ............some little top hat shaped bit kept fouling the mini suspension tower. So I fired up autocad and designed what u see in the piccy. It was all laser cut and went together like a big 3d jigsaw puzzle. Bear in mind when I built mine....there where few others who had built and proven their own frames. So much of it was educated guesswork.



The part I would be concerned about on any frame is the rigidity of the mini subframe suspension towers after being trimmed down ...... Think about the rotational force on the front hubs when you hit the brakes at 90mph plus !!! all that energy is now being transfered mostly to the front brakes , ....these are in turn held by the bottom arm and tie rod and the top arm .......which is now held in place by what remains of the old suspension tower which in some frames I have seen, is only really supported at the bottom and precious little else. The link bar between the two towers will do very little to help this situation.
When you have finished your frame , fit it to the car , fit the suspension top arm........... then do this test......... slide some strong steel tube 6 feet long ( scaffold pole) over the top arm and pull with all your might on the other end forwards towards the front of the car ...get someone to observe any deformation of the top arm mount / tower. If it passes it should be fine..........any permanent deformation must be corrected and suitably braced.

Take care

FBM
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Old 10-10-2008, 08:36 AM   #30
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hi fbm-spec i have seen some pics of your frame..and i must say i am well impressed.have u concidered selling a few of your frames or selling the design....?
if u did or do i would be interested.....
after reading about what u had wrote above it's got me a little worried as my frame is similar to xvalvers and mini Vlatko with very slight difference
is there a way of Strengthening the area around the toparm mount/tower..?..as u said this would be a very weak point taking speed/breaking force on this area
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