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Old 07-01-2018, 09:43 PM   #1
gadget555
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Default Distinguishing a 160 vvc

I'm going to collect a "160vvc" engine out of a mg zr, is there any features that will distinguish it from a normal 1.8 mems3 vvc apart from the inlet manifold that is plain alloy (not saying that it has but it could of been changed) here is a couple of photo's of it,

160 vvc engine by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

160 vvc engine 2 by Keith Thornburn, on Flickr

What do you think? is it genuine, the reason I'm asking is the guy I'm supposedly buying from has been really nice up until me saying about the payment, in that I wanted to pay through paypal and pay the cost of the fees in case things didn't go as to plan and the guy started insisting that I pay by bank transfer prior to collection! me being dubious here and alarm bells started to ring. I replied back to him it's either paypal or cash on collection he kept asking for the money to be paid by bank transfer so that he would end the sale to stop the large number of messages that he is getting "it's not on ebay by the way" He has stopped asking for the money to be transferred to his account and said he would be in touch in the morning with his address for me to go and collect it tomorrow evening "about a 6 hour round trip for me" I have checked out his profiles that I can find and all seems legit.
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Old 07-01-2018, 10:32 PM   #2
ZA-J
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Looks identical to my 160.
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Old 08-01-2018, 07:03 AM   #3
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I may be wrong but I think all vvc engines with the coil on plug arrangement were 160s as that's mems 3?

Looks at the same as my vvc. Also isn't the throttle body a certain size ?
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Old 08-01-2018, 07:20 AM   #4
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no, the was a 143ps vvc mems3 engine fitted to the rover 25 gti, but it is a rare beast compared to the 160. The only external differences are there is no vvc lettering on the 160 inlet manifold and the 52mm throttle body as opposed to the 48mm on the 143. The only internal difference is the 160 has stronger pistons. So unfortunately without removing the head there is no way of knowing for sure if someone hasn't fitted a 160 inlet and TB to a 143 engine
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Old 08-01-2018, 08:40 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gazwad View Post
no, the was a 143ps vvc mems3 engine fitted to the rover 25 gti, but it is a rare beast compared to the 160. The only external differences are there is no vvc lettering on the 160 inlet manifold and the 52mm throttle body as opposed to the 48mm on the 143. The only internal difference is the 160 has stronger pistons. So unfortunately without removing the head there is no way of knowing for sure if someone hasn't fitted a 160 inlet and TB to a 143 engine
Yes.. My 1st donor engine was from a Rover 25GTI, that had mems 3 had a lettered vvc inlet, 48mm plastic throttle body and rover labeled plastic cam cover
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Old 08-01-2018, 10:22 AM   #6
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I've found this info and makes for good reading although it relates to MG TF's, but can't find anything similar that relates to MG ZR's
http://www.mgf.ultimatemg.com/group1...bers/index.htm
Just found this relating to the ZR on Rimmer bro's
https://rimmerbros.com/content--name...le-Information

Last edited by gadget555; 08-01-2018 at 10:36 AM.
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Old 08-01-2018, 10:59 AM   #7
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Looks like a 160 to me, certainly is mems3.

I've stripped three MG ZR 160s and have noticed a couple of differences in years.

The earlier 2001 cars have painted black alloy inlets with the air intake temp sensor on the side and an extra plug on the loom.

The 2002/3 onward cars tend to have the silver alloy inlet with the air intake temp sensor on the top and the lower one blanked.

From the pics that one looks like the later type, but as you say it could have been changed.

One thing to note though is you could do with the correct wiring loom for the year or solder a new wire for the temp sensor.

If it was me I'd be offering to send a few quid deposit then go up and pay cash, never send someone you dont know more than you're willing to loose.

Last edited by edk83; 08-01-2018 at 11:05 AM.
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Old 08-01-2018, 12:33 PM   #8
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I'd say that's a 160 engine. It's a MEMS 3 coil on top. Check the 52mm throttle body. Small circle with 52 in in on engine side of it.

Gaz says the only difference between the 143 and 160 engines internally is the pistons. I am certain the head casting has more open ports on the 160. I remember doing Phoenix's and removed a lot of metal, especially on the exhaust side. When I did a 160 there was very little to do.

I honestly wouldn't pay via bank transfer. You know I got stung big time with this last year. If the guy won't accept cash it's probably a dodgy deal. I would be more dubious about this than if the engine is correct!
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Old 08-01-2018, 01:59 PM   #9
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Ports are the same on all vvc engines, i've done several mems2 and mems3 vvc heads and the only difference is triple angle valve seats on the 160 engines - makes very little difference in the real world. Valve seat to port alignment can vary significantly though between all the heads so yours was probably just a badly aligned one.
Just to make things more confusing I have pulled apart rover 25 gti engines (143ps) and found a couple of them with triple valve seats and 160 pistons, as anything from rover it seems they just used what they found lying around at the time!
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Old 08-01-2018, 08:08 PM   #10
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Default Distinguishing a 160 vvc

Take a spark plug out, hope the piston isnít too coked up and use a bore scope to look for the 160 on the piston
Edit: I would also be pretty confident in saying it was a 160 engine from what I can see.

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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.

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Old 08-01-2018, 09:56 PM   #11
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Well I've been and collect the engine. The guy was really nice and very knowledgeable as he's been into rovers in general for about 10 or so years, it is a 160 engine out of a zr about 80-90,000 miler so could do with a refresh but at least I now have a spare if mine goes pop! thanks for your help and the links that I found helped as the engine code is K18 4F N36 and the later engines have a P prefix, my engine in the mini at the moment came out of a TF 160 and is also a N prefix so happy days.
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Old 09-01-2018, 07:21 AM   #12
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90k miles on a k series is nothing, I've pulled apart engines with 150k plus on them and they barely look run-in inside! all I would do to it is a payen head gasket, belts and water pump
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Old 09-01-2018, 08:26 AM   #13
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When I say a refresh, there is signs that there has been an oil leak from not the cam cover but the next one down, is it the cam rail? and also looks like the rear crank seal as the very bottom of the sump just behind the flywheel looks a bit damp and generally it needs a good de-grease/clean.
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Old 09-01-2018, 10:13 AM   #14
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Sounds like your cam ladder needs re-sealing, just check the camshaft oil seals at the ends though, they can leak and track along the join for the cam ladder and look like a bigger job than it is!


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Old 09-01-2018, 03:34 PM   #15
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I've taken the plugs out and used my bore-a-scope to see if I could anything on any of the pistons apart from no 1 & 4 plug holes having quit a bit of oil in them and carbon build up on the piston crowns on no 3 I could just make out the 160 dot matrix number
I think when Time and funds allow I'll strip the head off and give everything a good clean up new gasket and re-seal where needs.
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