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Old 19-04-2014, 07:38 PM   #31
andyb16fun
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Oh right, okay, thanks for the information.
Andy.
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Old 19-04-2014, 08:05 PM   #32
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Have you got a rover rave cd rom with most of the wiring diagrams on ? if not then have a look on flea bay there about 3, but make sur you get the one that covers the mg range as I now have 4 copies of rave but only one of them covers the mg tf 160.
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:36 AM   #33
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Default MGF wiring

Hi Gazwad, do you have High res pics of your diagrams please?
I have started tto strip the MGF loom down and will probably be going down the route of using the MGF clocks and stalks etc, so very little mni wiring left.

But I need to strip out as uch of the MGF stuff as possible.

There are a number of ECU's
Multi function
Windows
ABS
ECU
SAS

and also a Volumetric unit behind the seats !

Any info great apprecaited
Thanks
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Old 08-07-2016, 08:54 AM   #34
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http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q...psy0alhnfv.jpg


Looks like a headache is coming on!!
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Old 08-07-2016, 11:57 AM   #35
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Good luck with it, my TF 160 engine came in the sub frame with about 2-3' of wiring that had been cut as it came through the rear bulkhead from a breakers. Took me 3 weeks worth of night shifts and 3 rover rave cd's to finally work it out, the final stumble was a purple wire that came from the multi function ecu that needed to go to an ignition live then it would run that one took about 2 weeks to fathom out.
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Old 08-07-2016, 01:23 PM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forgdw View Post
http://i350.photobucket.com/albums/q...psy0alhnfv.jpg


Looks like a headache is coming on!!
I would like to comment here.

I would not use that loom. Get a Rover 200 Vi or GTi body loom from a car before 1999. The engine loom is the same. You'll be able to remove the wiring not used for components like central locking, electric windows, sunroof, ABS etc, etc. Then shorten it all to fit the Mini.

This is how I did mine. It's a copy of the original and it uses all the same wiring colours as the Rover 200 wiring diagram.

A lot of people will tell you to solder each connection but I found using the butt type crimp connectors have been 100% reliable in the 4 years I've had mine on the road.

I have used the MG switches for hazards, rear fog etc. I built a panel in the normal Mini place and fit them in that.




Mine started like this.



But finished like this.



There is no Mini wiring in my Mini at all.
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Old 08-07-2016, 05:09 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGoaty View Post
I would like to comment here.

I would not use that loom. Get a Rover 200 Vi or GTi body loom from a car before 1999. The engine loom is the same. You'll be able to remove the wiring not used for components like central locking, electric windows, sunroof, ABS etc, etc. Then shorten it all to fit the Mini.

This is how I did mine. It's a copy of the original and it uses all the same wiring colours as the Rover 200 wiring diagram.

A lot of people will tell you to solder each connection but I found using the butt type crimp connectors have been 100% reliable in the 4 years I've had mine on the road.

I have used the MG switches for hazards, rear fog etc. I built a panel in the normal Mini place and fit them in that.




Mine started like this.



But finished like this.



There is no Mini wiring in my Mini at all.
Can I ask why not the MGF? they are practically the same except the MGF engine connections are near the back?
I will still have to remove all the Window / ABS etc components and shorten to suit?
I have pretty much cut all the ABS and SRS stuff out of the loom now and moved the engine bay bit up to the front. So ideally I keep going.

Unless there is something I really have missed!
Cheers
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Old 09-07-2016, 08:37 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forgdw View Post
Can I ask why not the MGF? they are practically the same except the MGF engine connections are near the back?
I will still have to remove all the Window / ABS etc components and shorten to suit?
I have pretty much cut all the ABS and SRS stuff out of the loom now and moved the engine bay bit up to the front. So ideally I keep going.

Unless there is something I really have missed!
Cheers
Simply because the MG F is rear engined. The Rover 200 has very similar wiring but everything is the right way around. The wire lengths are always too long, whereas the MG F ones will need lengths adding to which the wire colours won't match then.

A loom from another car isn't a great deal of money. You want to make this as easy as you can for yourself.

It's your choice but that's what I would do. If you do use the MG F loom, let us know how you get on...
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Old 11-07-2016, 02:54 PM   #39
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Ok wiring is still being stipped out. My 5AS has 2 plugs grey and white. I have been told I do not need the white ,but it has 2 wires - 11 & 12 that go to the Passive coil on the ignition key
Is this not required? Gazwad's diagram for Rover 200 and 400 doesn't show it so I assume it doesnt need it?

MGF VVC 2000 White 0057 plug
1 - NK - Door Lock
6 - GW - Header 0287 (multi block of wires)
7 - GR - Header 0287
8 - SW - Volumetric sensor
9 - NS - Inertia switch (EMR191) ??
11 - SR - Passove Coil (Key)
12 - Passive coil (key)
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Old 11-07-2016, 05:10 PM   #40
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The passive coil is and advantage that when you take the keys out of the ignition the immobiliser auto arms, but you don't need it for you to be able to build your own loom.
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Old 11-07-2016, 05:45 PM   #41
Forgdw
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Default MGF wiring

Thanks Gadget. I will probably leave it on then.
I have been through the wiring diagrams given to me by GazWad.

Looking at the comparison on the MGF loom, I have 2 connections to the Engine
C0160 and C0162
(3 if you include C0203 2 x brown lives)

Connector 160
1 - Empty
2 - WP - Fuel Tank live
3 - Empty
4 - Empty (aircon model)
5 - Empty
6 - Empty
7 - NU - Oil Gauge
8 - WN - Oil light Dash
9 - K - Diagnostic Socket
10 - Ambient Air
11 - Ambient Air (these go direct to connector)
12 - Speed Transducer (to Speedo)
13 - Empty

Connector C0162
1 - W - Ignition live Fuse 14
2 - WB - Engine Spped (rev counter)
3 - WR - Ignition live (Engine Relay) Fuse 19
4 - NS - Inertia switch
5 - GY - Reverse light
6 - GN - REverse light
7 - NY - Alternator charge (Dash)
8 - NB - Fan Engine Bay (relay)
9 - GU -Coolant sender (Dash)
10 - BW - 5AS immobilser
11 - YR - 5AS Alarm
12 - GR - Engine bay Fan waring light (Dash)
13 - Cooling Fan (Relay)

as I am using the whole loom, I may utitse some of these connections instead of disconnecting. I could have 2 cooling fans on different relays (one of which hass a warning light if it doesnt come on at the correct temp)..
I will probably keep the Diag socket as well.

Not sure about the inertia switch. I think t his just forms a cut out to earth in an accident (any info on this??)
Every thing else I will keep.

Now I will look at the 5AS again and compare connections
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Old 11-07-2016, 06:06 PM   #42
Forgdw
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Default MGF wiring

OK the 5AS has a large grey connector which has most of the required wires

Connector C0061
1 - W - Ignition Live(Fuse 14) same as engine connector
2 - B - Earth
3 - Empty
4 - Door Lock
5 - Empty
6 - PW - ECU Door lock
7 - PS - ECU door lock
8 - PB - ECU Multi function
9 - YR - Engine Management (Alarm)
10 - Y - Hazards
11 - K - Door lock
12 - Empty
13 - O - Door lock live
14 - WB - Volumetric sensor
15 - Empty
16 - RU - Diag socket
17 - UK - Dash light
18 - BP - Bonnet
19 - BO - Door lock
20 - NB - Volumetric Sensor
21 - PR - Loading (boot) light
22 - BR - Boot lock
23 - BW - Engine Management immobilser
24 - OU - Diag socket
25 - WG - ECU multi
26 - P - LIVE (Fuse 3)

From the info I have been given by Gazwad, I should only need to use
1, 2, 9, 23, 26.

I will probably use the Diag socket connections. The only two I am not sure about leaving or cutting are the 2 ECU multi connectors -Any ideas what these do??

The rest I have cut when removing the cenrtral locking and alarm stuff
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Old 14-07-2016, 08:40 AM   #43
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that's correct you only need 1,2,9,23,26. the other ecu connections are not needed. I don't normally bother with the diagnostic socket connection from the 5as as this can only be used to re-program the immobiliser (with specific rover equipment). for the diagnostic socket just use the feed from the ecu, a live and earth.
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Old 28-07-2016, 04:04 PM   #44
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Right then, time for me to start thinking about wiring!

I have 2 zr160s, car number 1 is 2001 with the 2 button key fob which I have taken the ecu, fob, 5as and obd2 port from. The engine is rather noisy so is being sold on, planning on keeping the engine wiring loom and fuse box from it though as a spare. Engine going in the car is currently sat in my 2003 zr which has the Pecktron fob so won't be using the ecu from this.

I'm wanting to keep the immobiliser to disarm the ecu and have the ignition / start on a switch and button rather than a key (don't have a barrel).

I'm going to take advantage of Gazwad's offer to build me a loom but for now just need some advice on what plugs I need to take off the 2001 zr. Have cut the grey engine plug off on the car side and the one for the fan on the same bracket.

The fuse box has quite a few plugs going into the back and its mems3 so different to the pictures above. Have also noticed that of the two ecu plugs one goes to the engine and one into the car loom. I have got to lift the engine out of the 2001 car in the next week or so then I'll have better access to the wiring.

I'm guessing I need both plugs that go onto the ecu?
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Old 28-07-2016, 09:28 PM   #45
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Originally Posted by edk83 View Post
Right then, time for me to start thinking about wiring!

I have 2 zr160s, car number 1 is 2001 with the 2 button key fob which I have taken the ecu, fob, 5as and obd2 port from. The engine is rather noisy so is being sold on, planning on keeping the engine wiring loom and fuse box from it though as a spare. Engine going in the car is currently sat in my 2003 zr which has the Pecktron fob so won't be using the ecu from this.

I'm wanting to keep the immobiliser to disarm the ecu and have the ignition / start on a switch and button rather than a key (don't have a barrel).

I'm going to take advantage of Gazwad's offer to build me a loom but for now just need some advice on what plugs I need to take off the 2001 zr. Have cut the grey engine plug off on the car side and the one for the fan on the same bracket.

The fuse box has quite a few plugs going into the back and its mems3 so different to the pictures above. Have also noticed that of the two ecu plugs one goes to the engine and one into the car loom. I have got to lift the engine out of the 2001 car in the next week or so then I'll have better access to the wiring.

I'm guessing I need both plugs that go onto the ecu?
You say Gaz has offered to make a loom but what is it based on? Personally I'd of used the full car loom and just removed the unwanted wiring. The Allegro can't be much different size wise to the MG ZR.
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