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Old 10-12-2009, 07:57 PM   #16
Birdman
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Here is one of the front coilovers that I want to use. They are like everything else on the car - bought from Ebay. Leda Lotus Bilstein Proflex apparantley. Once the frame is completely in I can see where exactly the top suspension mounts need to be. They appear to be exactly where the standard shocks on a mini mount, despite the bottom mounting having been moved back 1-2 inches. I reckon these springs and shocks will destroy the normal body type top mounts, so I will try to fabricate top mounts made from some 40x40x 4mm box section ( same as frame) and have them coming up and outwards from the frame. Might even make them adjustable, if I can work it out, so I can achieve different ride heights, spring tension and damper settings. Bit of rust on front panel creeping in I noticed. As a last resort after grinding, if the subframe just wont fit because of the angles needed, I think I might cut off the front valance behind the bumper area and weld it back on with some hinges, that way the frame can easily go in. A lot of hassle that I hope to avoid though.
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Old 10-12-2009, 08:06 PM   #17
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Shock absorber dangling in the breeze and spring could do with a paint job. As you can see, subframe needs to go in and up at the same time. Will sit about 3 inches higher when located by the tower bolts and about 1.5 inches further back.
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Old 13-12-2009, 08:01 PM   #18
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A tough weekend... Did a dry build / run of the unknown homebuilt subframe to understand the clearance issues. Cut some overall length from the frame with angle grinder and have managed to get it bolted up - just. Mini is pulling a sad face as the front valance is being pushed to it's limits. Going to have to do something about this. Front panel is not in a good state anyway. Had to cut away the mounts that connect to standard mini subframe as well. The front panel is so stressed at present that the grille doesn't fit at all! Any how, it has allowed me to start looking at the non existent suspension arrangement and look at possible positioning for top coil over mounts to be fabricated and welded to frame. Innevitable rust was discovered behind the standard mini top shock mount.
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Old 13-12-2009, 08:13 PM   #19
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Some more pics... camera falsh quite usefull as it pics up all rust and grot that your eye glosses over. Clearance is needed and I need to find about 1 inch on the front panel. Rack clearance is fine, but rack boot is knackered. Put one hub on with KAD 4 pot and Leda coilover to work out top mount solution. Suspension at full droop, so top mount will be fairly high.
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Old 13-12-2009, 08:21 PM   #20
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Some more shots of underneath and decided to to be safe and put the wheel on to check clearances here. After realising that the side arms of the frame would never go on with a fixed front end, I got busy with the grinder and cut away the bottom to allow easier fitment. The one in the picture carries the battery.
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Old 13-12-2009, 08:28 PM   #21
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Both top arms of the frame in, after much cursing and grinding. It's a good job that this frame is mega strong as it allows me to take a bit off here and there. Battery in to check clearance with wing.
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Old 13-12-2009, 08:33 PM   #22
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Final under car shot off the frame, with strange paint effect. All this to get it built up and then strip it all back down for frame to be properly painted... aahh time for a beer....
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Old 29-12-2009, 05:07 PM   #23
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Just had a complete Melonsing day, you know the type where you plan what your going to do and then whatever you do it all goes Pete Tong.

Decided to fabricate some top suspension mounts for the mini, which in my case will be part of the subframe, as it uses coilovers and no mini rubber suspension. Was worried that the loading of the car, engine and gearbox all being transmitted through the standard mini top shock mount area would be too much. Now I'm worried it will be too much for the frame. Despite the grapesing freezing rain all day I braved the elements and had to work outside most of the time because of sparks and MMA Arc welding. I'm not that experienced with Arc welding, but having welded the battery tray and bottom suspension mounts previously, I was keen to get cooking. Bought some SIP 6013 GP rods - big mistake because I spent the whole afternoon trying to strike a decent arc with them. Never again SIP. Weld was so poo that I ground it off, then the garage roof sprang 6 leaks where leaves must have blocked the corrugations. Time to walk a way for a while I think. Garage is in a total mess as you will see in the pics. Anyone have knowlege of coilover top mounting, where the coilover is the only suspension?? Ideas appreciated..
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Old 29-12-2009, 05:47 PM   #24
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If you use the "[img] picture address [/img]" tags your images will be embedded instead of attached.

I noticed that you'll need to change your front tie bar mount. Ideally you should use a rose joint here and really beef it up, as said before on other threads, this area sees a lot of load and the mounting will fail as it is.

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Old 29-12-2009, 06:13 PM   #25
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Interesting Stuff Birdman, Thought I would have a quick look since you took the time to look at my build. The rear beam looks very light and personally speaking I would want to beef it up abit especially if you end up using the standard arms.

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Old 29-12-2009, 06:24 PM   #26
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Yep absolutely agree. I got it really cheap and it needs much more strengthening and some mods. I think thats a job for later. Plan to get the conversion done first, get it on the road with standard rear subby, then change to a beam to remove some weight. I think doing it all at once would mean suspension and steering setup would be a nightmare. Most probably have the car crabbing along the road.
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Old 29-12-2009, 06:32 PM   #27
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Mininut, I am just thinking about the tie bar. Just to be sure, we are talking about the tie bar where you can see the red deflex type mini bushes aren't we? Your correct this is not a rose joint, although all my other suspension arms have them and I intend to uprate them. The picture is probably not very clear, but that mount is very strong. It's made from 5-6 mm steel plate and is triangulated for support with the same material. All gas welded. It's not easy to see this reinforcement in the picture because it's behind the tie bar in the pic I think. But as you've got me worried now, I'll take a detailed picture tomorrow.
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Old 30-12-2009, 07:02 PM   #28
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More shocking welding today. Took the morning practising on some scrap material (same material as being used). Was happy with results - then attempted the weld the top arm and proposed shock mount - disaster. Not pleased with the weld at all, so it will have to be done again and again until I have learnt with this Arc Welder. Decided to try the proposed mount on the frame anyway.Dunno why I haven't cleaned and painted this coil over spring, looks rubbish, but you get the idea. I think I will end up making a much larger triangulation piece that goes from top to bottom. Last two pics are of the front tie bar mount, which MiniNut warned me will snap. I hope this doesn't happen, because I measured the plate and its 6 mm thick with 3mm triangulation. MiniNut please advise if this is still too weak. Sorry haven't mastered embedding the images yet.
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Old 30-12-2009, 11:26 PM   #29
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4-5mm plate won't handle the amount of torque an let will produce. a simple fix here would be to get another 6mm plate the weld it to the end of the mount (furthest from the frame) and back to the frame thus creating a triangle around the nut if you see what i mean.



Ideally you should use a rose joint here as you'll probably trash that rubber pretty quickly.

M.

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Old 31-12-2009, 12:00 PM   #30
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I see what you mean. By the way, it's just an XE going in at present, but the LET is very tempting for the future, especially as I have had to chop a lot of bulkhead away for the GM Inlet manifold and gubbins. I guess the tie bar mount gets tugged and pulled backwards and forwards under most conditions, whilst it tries to maintain the position of the bottom arm, leading eventually to a fatigue failure.
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