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Old 05-06-2016, 09:14 PM   #31
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Why do you need these? Just take all old sensors out and feed the Typhoon ECU as per spec? I am afraid I am not getting something?
Yes all the old sensors are gone. just their remnants which remain. Specifically the wiring for the 02 sensor in each of the relays.

I guess I need to spend some time with a wiring diagram from the old relay pack loom.
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Old 07-06-2016, 08:46 PM   #32
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Turns out I had the wrong loom, hence my confusion.

SC will post out the correct one.

Looking at the engine breathers.

I plan to use the normal crankcase breather with a breather filter on the top.

However there also seems to be a breather on the rear on the oil drain box, where does the breath too.
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Old 08-06-2016, 07:41 PM   #33
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It's a weird question you ask.

I think there is the main breather at the back of the engine where where head oil return pipe goes. It has one 8mm pipe that goes also to the head between the pulleys and with a T below the ITB's. That is you engine ventilation.

Probably you can use the gearbox side vent too but I fill my oil there...

In my opinion the ideal set up would be with a vacuum PCV, it can be easily done but to be honest, I have not bothered yet...
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Old 08-06-2016, 08:06 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gimenofl View Post
It's a weird question you ask.

I think there is the main breather at the back of the engine where where head oil return pipe goes. It has one 8mm pipe that goes also to the head between the pulleys and with a T below the ITB's. That is you engine ventilation.

Probably you can use the gearbox side vent too but I fill my oil there...

In my opinion the ideal set up would be with a vacuum PCV, it can be easily done but to be honest, I have not bothered yet...
That makes sense.

I have the build guide but there is no mention of engine ventilation/breathing.

I have searched for info / pictures but found nothing.

Thanks for taking the time to reply.
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Old 09-06-2016, 12:12 PM   #35
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Just received a mail from SC regarding the engine breathers.

They suggest that all engine breathers are brought together to a catch tank located under the inner wing and filter it there (keep fumes out the cabin).


The breather pipe on the throttle bodies should be blocked.
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Old 10-06-2016, 06:13 PM   #36
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The position of sc 8s known to me. Their camc9ver design has no lip and is prone to leaks. That is why I suggest to use the itb ports. Of course ā catch tank under the wing will keep nasty oil far from the butterflies of the intake... but 8t will not give us vacuum...
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Old 10-06-2016, 08:57 PM   #37
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Always nice with a parts delivery...

MED crank pulley and filter housing!

Quality is excellent! And just slightly more expensive than standard parts.





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Old 10-06-2016, 08:59 PM   #38
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Looks great fitted!



Shame it is never going to work. the MED Damper must be both thicker and larger in diameter than the standard item, despite i being sold as an "s" damper.

the picture below shows the situation with the SC trigger wheel fitted. I would need to space out the sensor bracket about 1cm and shave 4mm off the sensor itself for it too work. Open to suggestion though…...




Generally a frustrating night in the garage I offered uo the oil filter housing, It is supplied with socket head bolts, but the clearance with the housing itself makes it impossible to get any sort of tool to tighten up the bolts.



oh and then there is the washers suppled… they foul the side of the hosing so can't be used (not a big deal, but why even send them).



One positive side the new wiring loom from SC arrived. Plugs straight into the relay packs, so looks easy to use. But there are a couple of ring and spade connectors, which i need some explaining on where they connect. No instructions provided. I assume they are for the starter X3, oil pressure and for the alternator X3.

Oh then there is this on the loom. This is for the air temp sensor but surely it shouldn't look like this?




Time for a beer or two or three or four….
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Old 13-06-2016, 06:48 AM   #39
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That crack sensor needs to be in the middle of the teeth, basically that toothed wheel is to close to the pulley, it needs spacing out, or get rid of dampener

ps , i hate it as well, spending good money on parts , and it seems like the simple things have not been checked ... or its more lazyness , i reckon when they first made/sent oil filter housing it was fine , but one day they ran out of bolts etc , so just put some others in packet
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Old 13-06-2016, 07:20 PM   #40
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So the MED damper is for sale http://www.theminiforum.co.uk/forums...mpener-damper/ (120 with free postage). it just won't work with my set up.


So bits and pieces that i need are trickling in. Some pipe fittings on the oil drains on the rear.




And then the filter housing



Waiting in a biggish delivery from minispares for bits and bobs and some hoses from car builder solutions.

In the mean time i have tidied up the engine bay wiring a bit with some conduit and p brackets (pics to come) ands fitted some rivets in various places.

That is about it for this update. Sweden played Ireland tonight and i had to replace the pads on the rear of my audi a4 which seized on on friday.

Scary:




Last edited by minisilverbullet; 13-06-2016 at 07:24 PM.
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Old 14-06-2016, 08:23 PM   #41
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The Swedish postman arrived today lets call him Postman Patrik:




Lots of silly parts you don't really budget for in a build (gaskets, fasteners, clips etc)

To clear the cam belt you need to take of the some of the web of the water pump, the SC guide also states to shave the some material of the top of the water pump to clear the head, I trial fitted my pump and it fitted fine, so no need.






Pump fitted! feels like things are coming together.




Next up was fitting the radiator sensor to the "chinese" alloy rad, I did have fears that it wouldn't fit, since the communication with the seller was a little unclear. but it fitted perfectly.



When I ordered the Kit from SC i ordered their hose kit. I am not sure how the pipe from water pump to bottom radiator fit, but I guess it will become more apparent when i have the rad fitted. Basically the pipes must intertwine but I am not sure which way. Also there might be clearance issues so i fuss i need to trim the pipes a little.
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Old 15-06-2016, 06:52 AM   #42
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nice , looking good , reminds me of a year or so ... but my dad DIY'd all out parts.
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Old 16-06-2016, 09:37 PM   #43
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Added the nut on the jackshaft pulley. It is just the standard half nut normally used on the camshaft (though on the other end? if i understand correctly.)

it was tough to torque it up since i had to hold onto the pulley with one hand and the wrench with the other. It is tight, but anyone know how tight it should be?



Started wrapping the manifold i have little more to do but I ran out of the stainless ties i was using. It wasn't the easiest thing too do, but I think it is pretty neat. if anyone is doing this wear gloves and long sleeves, my hands are really itchy as i type.




FInally all the unions and cables on for the oil drain

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Old 17-06-2016, 07:58 AM   #44
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I would suspect you should also have the lock tab on it as per the normal Mini timing chain pulley. Also if you've done this up before putting the belt on will the belt actually go on ? Again, wit the original chain you need to put the chain on the top and bottom pulleys and then put both pulleys and the chain on to the engine as one piece. You then lock the crank and then torque up the two pulley nuts.

Check torque settings with SC else use the Mini settings from the Haynes manual
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Old 17-06-2016, 07:52 PM   #45
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I would suspect you should also have the lock tab on it as per the normal Mini timing chain pulley. Also if you've done this up before putting the belt on will the belt actually go on ? Again, wit the original chain you need to put the chain on the top and bottom pulleys and then put both pulleys and the chain on to the engine as one piece. You then lock the crank and then torque up the two pulley nuts.

Check torque settings with SC else use the Mini settings from the Haynes manual
SC said it doesn't need to be hugely tightened since the pulley spins in the direction of the engine. I have added some loctite and I am confident it is tight enough.

So I offered up my old alternator tonight and while there is a chance it will fit, it doesn't look great. A new small Denso Nippon alternator ordered.

Other than that I have bolted on the new clutch slave:




Seems the water pump pulley will rub on the oil hose (which runs from the block to the head), Is there smaller diameter pulley in the market?



Plans for tomorrow are to install the MPI fuel pump into my SPI tank.
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