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Old 19-04-2016, 07:25 PM   #1
minisilverbullet
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Default SC 16V K1100 1380 Engine

Owing to the 123 error, i will repost my thread which i had saved from elsewhere.

I encourage others to do so and build this forum up again.


After years of toing and froing looking for the perfect solution which fitted my needs of more power, ease of conversion, fit within Swedish regulations and budget.

As some of you may have noticed I have posed numerous questions regarding a 7 port head with rule injection, the more knowledgeable of you pointed out the issues I would have with emissions by using a cam which suited the engine. Therefore I would needed to have made a compromise with my choice of cam,

I also looked at various engine swaps, Suzuki, Micra and Honda. These appear superb, but I felt a little beyond my mechanical competences. Also I wasn't prepared to have the car off the road for too long.

Next up I considered the bike conversions, i almost bit the bullet and went for the AElynx kit. These conversions appeared a lithe too brutal for how I want the car to be.

So…..finally today I bought the specialist components bundle kit. (taking advantage of the Kroner/Pound exchange rate today)

SC ‘K’ Conversion Kit
SC Bespoke Bi-metallic Head Gasket
Refurbishing, Machining and Assembly of your ‘K’ Cylinder Head
SC Storm 2 Engine Management System pre-mapped for your engine
SC Bespoke ‘K’ Wiring Loom, Ignition Coil Pack, HT leads, Coil Bracket and sensors
SC Ancillaries Kit (including Throttle Cable and Dipstick)
SC Crank Trigger Kit with Crank Position Sensor
Preparation of your A-series block for the ‘K’ head
De-grease, surface, re-bore, hone and centre main strap machining of your block
Pocketing of your pistons for valve cut-outs
‘K’ Exhaust Manifold
Billet Remote Thermostat


Even though I am now suffering from a sense of post purchase anxiety, I will try and outline the specs of the engine as best i can. All comments welcome.

1380 block prepared by SC and built by Guessworks
- MED Verto Ultra-Light ST1 Clutch Kit with lightened flywheel
- Pistons TBD
- Crank - balanced x-drilled
- Conrods - Standard balanced and lightened TBC
- Steel mainstrap
- I will use the SC ECU and maintain a narrow band Lambda (for emissions)

Gearbox
- From Guessworks TBD. I think a SCCR box.
- 3.4 Final Drive.

Cylinder Head
- Cam wise - I meant to ask SC which cams cam with the kit LT or RS. Depending on emissions I would like the RS cams. I need to confirm this
- I have asked SC to machine and add a standard mini oil cap into the head

Colour (the most important part)
- Block painted black and head painted dark grey.

All comments welcome
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Old 19-04-2016, 07:26 PM   #2
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oh yes it will be going into this -


Intention is to keep the standard bonnet and pray that I only need to trim the cross member. If that fails, I think I might go for a nice retro rear bonnet lift.

I am also thinking of trying to have some nice chrome K&N filters somehow visible at the front.
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Old 19-04-2016, 07:28 PM   #3
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So I have gone for the Omega pistons 7cc dish (73.5mm)

have also agreed with SC to build the short block. Nothing fancy:
Standard rods with resized big ends
ARP conrod bolts
Regrind and balance of a standard crank
Jackshaft
And the omega pistons
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Old 19-04-2016, 07:29 PM   #4
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Gearbox ordered from Guessworks:

Helical box
cross pin diff
3.44 final drive (3.2 wasn't an option since that is what is currently have and i needed a different FD to help with the registration of the car being modified)

I think in the end it was a good choice of final drive. It is what Specialist components recommend for my engine. I don't do long journeys on the motorway.

And of course there are speed limits but not limits on how fast you accelerate to that limit. :shy:

I decided an against straight cut drops; I wanted to be able to hear the engine. But also a mini has enough bangs, creaks, squeaks and rattles without adding a whine.
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Old 19-04-2016, 07:29 PM   #5
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Made a start today,

Cleaned out the garage, car in the air.


Fuel tank removed. I will reuse this spi tank but with a mpi pump.



Removed the sump guard, bonnet and towbar. I intended to sell the tow bar but i now 8 holes in the boot floor, I cannot weld and don't have welder. maybe i just refit the tow bar.

Lets call this a gentle start.
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Old 19-04-2016, 07:31 PM   #6
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Got stuck in again tonight! the radiator bottom hose caused me a bit of hassle. the jubilee clip spun away from me, so i couldn't get a socket on it.

Fairly enjoying myself though. just the Spi wiring loom to remove and then it is time to get the engine out.


One thing I wonder about is where will I take a vacuum for the brake servo on my new engine?
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Old 19-04-2016, 07:31 PM   #7
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Probably not a big deal for the seasoned tinkerers and mechanics here; but today I am extremely pleased with myself. '

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Old 19-04-2016, 07:32 PM   #8
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Spent the afternoon cleaning and degreasing the engine bay.

Took a bit of time and a whole pile of clothes, brushes and rags, but turned out alright (i think)

Also gave the subframe fresh coat of paint.



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Old 19-04-2016, 07:33 PM   #9
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Short block and ancillaries arrived with Guessworks for the gearbox, med flywheel and clutch assembly to be "bolted" on.

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Old 19-04-2016, 07:34 PM   #10
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Alloy "chinese" radiator arrived today, after my initial inspection i was fairly impressed with it. However the cowling didn't fit over it, it fouled in various places. Meaning the bolt holes would never line up.





I was feeling brave, so I set about the cowling with my new angle grinder. First time I have ever used one (so i was fairly cautious)

removed the top lip:



trimmed around the corners:



And…….




Hopefully there is enough clearance for the fan…...
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Old 19-04-2016, 07:35 PM   #11
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And up to date!
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Old 23-04-2016, 02:41 PM   #12
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Hi Minisilverbullet....

Here there are some pics of my intake and my car interior.



The T7 heater so that I have more room inside



Inside...



and last but not least



Voila...

As you see I drive on an electric fan. I hated the mechanical
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Old 23-04-2016, 08:57 PM   #13
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Many thanks for taking the time.

I guess you have used the vacuum take off to balance the TBs?

I would have a hard time keeping that fridge full for long
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Old 24-04-2016, 07:20 AM   #14
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Yes indeed that was what all the discussion was about, you are balancing only as the take-off sections are very small (i.e. barely any effect on throttle response). I have to admit that my first intention was to vent the crank case with a real PCV but I found the balancing effect very nice. The engine design is prone to leaks (or rather sweating.

I also bought a balancing manometer (actually nothing but four manometers in one) and found that balancing for more than 1000Km is hard. This is now keeping good balance after 5000Km.
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Old 24-04-2016, 06:19 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gimenofl View Post
Yes indeed that was what all the discussion was about, you are balancing only as the take-off sections are very small (i.e. barely any effect on throttle response). I have to admit that my first intention was to vent the crank case with a real PCV but I found the balancing effect very nice. The engine design is prone to leaks (or rather sweating.

I also bought a balancing manometer (actually nothing but four manometers in one) and found that balancing for more than 1000Km is hard. This is now keeping good balance after 5000Km.
yip! Though I will use the vacuum for the brake servo. I will borrow your setup design.
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