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Old 24-01-2010, 05:14 PM   #31
miniphile
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bugger... your right philster i should of used reinforced corrugated cardboard. lol
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:55 PM   #32
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keep it horlicksin
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Old 03-02-2010, 11:56 PM   #33
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keep the pic coming
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Old 05-02-2010, 08:24 AM   #34
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back at it again and getting somewhere... kinda


once the chassis rails where in place i removed the diff and then used the jig for the final time to work out where the strut top would sit


and as you can see its not in a good place so i decided to use front struts in the rear because they are 65mm shorter overall and then ill get some softer springs as well


back to this trick again good thing that the front and rear mc phearson struts had the same stud pattern


i lowered the mount down 65mm from the original position and test fitted a strut


and this is the problem that i have been trying to work out. i have even been thinking about splitting the car down the center and making it 300mm wider so i don't need flares but i cant be bothered changing the side rails so flares it is


150mm flares to be precise


and the 16's are not much larger than the original 10's i took off the car but i wouldn't want to go over many bumps with that guard clearance

anyway i am trying to work out exactly how to do the suspension in the rear and find some flares so i went to the middle of the car as i cant do anything on the front for a while


this is how i shortened the dash rail the engineer insisted that i sleeve the joint so i did


i got to this point and thought that it looked a bit more lop sided than it should be and that i need to take the drivers side apart and shorten it as well


then i marked out the dash for sectioning and then cut it


the curve at the windscreen looked pretty good ill fix that later


test fit looks good until you see how far out the center console is compared to the tunnel so i think its time to go to the wreckers and get some other dashboards and do something a bit different. im thinking about mounting the side vents in the doors and that should work a bit better to center the dash.


so i moved on to finish off the chassis some guesstimate marking out is all that's required


and it wasn't to far wrong so i copied it for the other side


painted the side that will be stuck against the panel so it cant rust


then welded them in and seen as so there was nothing else to go in to hold the whole thing together i decided that it was time to remove the bracing


it would of been a lot easier if i could find the cutting wheel for my 9 inch grinder but the trusty 5 inch did the job in the end


and the hole in the end will be where the wiring loom and other leads make there way into the engine bay


then another coat of metal primer just to be safe (it helps when i live next to the ocean where everything rusts)

well that's it for a while now that the frame work is out of the way i can work out where the brakes are going to fit (do i need a booster?) and also set up the steering column also the "sway bar" lol needs to go in before i can think about finishing off the floor. i am also thinking about taking the shell off to a panel shop to go on a computerized jig to check that all the suspension is square within tolerance. anyway hope you are enjoying this thread
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:15 AM   #35
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I have two suggestions for you FWIW.

1.The rear strut issue is a simple fix if you are prepared to do a cantilever setup. It would eliminate the bulge in the car body and be somewhat innovative. It will take some room away in the rear but it depends on how you do the layout. As in the picture below you could actually mount the bar at whatever level is best for you and the push rods down to the suspension still move the appropriate up/down distance.

It basically takes away the diameter of the coils to a single rod. Orientation of the coilovers could be north/south, east/west or partially angled as in the 2nd picture. You could even move the rods inboard further as you have 2 mounting bolts on the hub and just have to mount a plate for the rod inboard as far as you need and the suspension will still work for you.

http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread...2490458&page=4



2. As to the dash it may look kind of cool in an asymmetric style. Use an S shape to get the centre portion to line up back to the tunnel. The speedo/tach may be left of centre for driving but the tach central to vision. You would have to mount the steering wheel to see if is aesthetically pleasing or not. Your car is unique so make it all that way. It is custom after all. JS
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Old 05-02-2010, 09:31 AM   #36
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or just mod your mac struts to take smaller springs , using this :

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product...ac7d2jh70a2f66

get some new shock inserts , some 2 1/4 springs .. should all go in.

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Old 05-02-2010, 10:01 AM   #37
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the easiest option would be to use a set of coil over's all round but being that i am in Australia and i have to have an engineer sign off on every mod on the car well he says that "coil overs are for track use only, but i can use the ones from a jag irs" not quite what i was after but ill sort it out the canter lever would be a good option but i would need to fabricate some upper arms for the wheel hub. but then again having a canter lever with a pair of coil overs on the parcel shelf would have people scratching there heads. (not sure of the legalities of that tho) and that conversion kit looks good but i don't think the engineer would like that either. ill find something that works and the engineer is happy with... eventually
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Old 05-02-2010, 11:19 AM   #38
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lol .. funny that you are "allowed" to do all this to a mini , but then not change to coil overs...

sure you will find away ..as you said .. simple to do arches for now.. i had the same problem once when i did a project like this.

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Old 05-02-2010, 06:02 PM   #39
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Quote:
I have to have an engineer sign off on every mod on the car well he says that "coil overs are for track use only,
Now I find that comment from an engineer pure rubbish. Has he looked at any car being built in the last 15-20 years. A McPherson strut may not technically be a coilover because it is non-adjustable but is basically the exact same system. How do any of the other Mini enthusiasts in Australia get away with using a coilover system on their cars and manage to pass inspection? I would find myself another engineer or do some in depth research on the rules for certification. JS
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Old 05-02-2010, 07:16 PM   #40
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the jag IRS units are very compact if you need to use them. and as there used in pairs per wheel hopefyll the poundage wont be too far out on a mini with just one per wheel..
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Old 06-02-2010, 08:24 AM   #41
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well today has been eventful... well kinda... sorta... not really. got up at 3am to do a 700km round trip in a mk1 civic that has a cannon muffler and really bad alignment (i don't think i could handle a cannon muffler. the droning sound is amusing around town for maybe an hour. but 10 hours) after dropping the others at the airport for there 2 hour flight and 20 hour drive back home again... umm what was i saying oh yeah mk1 civic struts are tiny the coil only looked about 100mm at the most and they seem to be fairly short so they might drop the car the ammount i need. so its a good thing my mate has a donor civic at his place that i can borrow some parts off. will have to do that next week but for now i should sleep because ive been going 16 hours on 2 hours sleep and that is why this is a rant about nothing in particular oh yeah i found the dash parts i need but they are going to cost me $110 from the wreckers so ill ask around some people i know and see if they have the parts i need i know one that does but he wants me to build him a custom out of the damaged car he has... any way zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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Old 07-02-2010, 01:38 AM   #42
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bugger just got a phone call from my mates i dropped off at the air port well after 19 hours driving (3 people in the car) only an hour from home and the car veered off the road and rolled down an embankment (thinking that there was something wrong with the suspension) no one was hurt. well it does happen
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Old 15-02-2010, 11:33 PM   #43
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well my mate is in for a convertible lancer as the only real damage was to the roof but i wont be doing that till i finish this mini so the latest pics only 6 today ill have to do some more work... or play as most of the time its fun to work on


the black bit is the top of the center tunnel from the pulsar cut down as far as i can but still keeping the mounting bolts


it was cut into the new tunnel and made to be flush on the bottom so that the inside of the tunnel is smooth (i did say i am trying to build this car to a show quality.. so ill fix the rest of the floor pan later)


i added some bracing to the floor so that when i cut the center out it didn't drop. then cut the center out


then leveled and tacked the new tunnel in then welded it in after making sure that the gear stick still bolted up


then started fitting up the dash to see how well it still fits. i also modded the dash bar to centralize the console and move the steering column to be in front of the seat as i had already shortened the passenger side i now need to make it longer again (i did a rush job on it as it was late but ill re do it properly)


there is lots of room behind the dash bar and im happy with it as it will give me room for the heater and the exhaust and some other parts that need to go in there but this also pushes the seating position back and removes the chance of having a useful rear seat (im never going to sit there but it would be nice to have the option for others to )

well now i just need to weld the tunnel in properly, remove the cross brace, put my seat in the right place then sit in it and make turbo noises while i pretend to change gears for a while then get back to building
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Old 16-02-2010, 08:47 PM   #44
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looking good as always mate every time i look at this build i just think fair melonsing play


keep it up mate its inspiring
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Old 22-02-2010, 02:22 PM   #45
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time for another update

i have been working on the dash trying to get that fitted so that i know how far through the firewall i can come with the recess for the exhaust it did look like there was heaps of room but when i put the heater in place there was not much space against the fire wall so i may need to find a different place to run the exhaust but now for the dash


well i had the tunnel in place so i bolted the dash mat on top and its sitting to high above the windscreen and as i am trying for a factory/show look i decided to fix it by dropping the top half and take out the hight from the center console


as i had most of the dash in i decided to fit a few more pieces to see what it looked like and it looked good but there is only about 390mm between the edge of the steering wheel and the b pillar but i can fall into the car backwards without touching either side so i guess its right


i worked out that the dash needed to drop 40mm so i took it out of the frame to start with but only tacked it back together in case i need to adjust it again


then moved onto the plastics by marking two parallel lines 40mm apart


then cut them and fitted it (ill fix the gap later) i also did the same to the face panel but i don't seem to have a pic of that.


the way that i plan to section the dash is by screw and glue aluminimum strips over the joints then put new foam on the top and re vinyl it


when i have the pieces where i want them i have the areas cleaned of any irregularities but roughed up for the adheasives to stick to


then i shape the aluminimum strips and screw them together ill wait till i have all the dash right then take the aluminimum off one at a time then glue it and screw it again then cut the bottoms off the screws flush with the plates


i bolted the dash mat back in to get the end in place


then made a large plate to cover the hole where i removed the divot in the dash that i didn't like and where i shortened it


all fitted and with the end on as well i just need to work out how i am finishing the glove box and then put the latch section in the middle again i also have to figure what i am doing with the vents on the sides of the dash


and i also went shopping (well i noticed these at the wreckers when a mate was getting parts) $66 each the drivers one has some small tears but it will be getting re upholstered so that dose not really matter they look better than the nissan ones and the mounts are a bit better for getting closer to the floor ill fit them when i have finished the dash and the steering wheel is in its correct position well enjoy the pics i should be in the shed again tomorrow so there may be another update tomorrow night as well but dont hold me to it lol
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