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Old 20-12-2017, 07:41 PM   #136
will16
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Been neglecting the car recently, been running spot on though! Did a slippy track session at silverstone for Trax back in October and the cars sat since. I've got a big list of things to do over winter, I'd like a 13s 1/4, so I built up a C7 box with a torsen, this is my 2nd attempt at building a pg1 but it went together alot smoother so I'm hoping it will be gravy!

I wanted to sort out something thats been bugging me, the engines always sat on the p!ss, this is due to me overcompensating for how much I thought the Rover engine mount would sag, this also meant the passenger side driveshaft cv gaiter rubbed on the frame rail, nice and messy Stripped the car down and redrilled the gearbox mount side today, will bring the welder home and put some strengthening plates on it





Can see how wonky it was here





Made sure the car was level


Leveled


Drilled


Front still fits, just! Cam cover needed some clearancing


Gaiter has way more clearance now, was touching frame rail before


Been having some fun with this in the mean while
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Old 13-01-2018, 04:01 PM   #137
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With moving the engine, it altered my engine position so that the rear engine steady didnt fit. With some advice off here I made a new one using a series polybush's and tube and modified the solid rose joint front steady to make it less harsh. Then the engine could come out for the gearbox change and I wanted to tidy up the bay a bit as I wasnt keen on it as it was very cluttered and 'thrown in'. I'm not going for a full shaved bay, the engines been in and out more times than I can remember now so properly tucking everything would be a nightmare! The wiper motor got moved behind the bulkhead, a lot of the wiring was simple to do and unplugged and replugged behind the dash. Also I copied what Gaz has done and got rid of the inner wing braces and boxed the ends in, made some dimple dies at work so put them to use The bay got a colour change too, I wish Iíd spent a little more time to prep the bay and get it really smooth, but Iím happy with how its come out for a rattle can job

Plated round the old hole








Exhaust flexi and gearbox have been rubbed a little


Wiper motor
[

Start of the bay








garage set up


How the bay came out, its shinier than it looks
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Old 13-01-2018, 07:37 PM   #138
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I like the dimple holes, looks very neat
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Old 13-01-2018, 08:49 PM   #139
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How are you going to stop the gap between your new strengtheners and the original inner wing filling up with water and crud?
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Old 13-01-2018, 09:26 PM   #140
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Love the dimple die!
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Old 14-01-2018, 05:13 PM   #141
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Thanks guy, appreciate it Tbh I hadnt thought about them filling up, I'm going to cavity wax them and probably drill a drain hole

Made a start on the metal front end. Now if your thinking Iíve made it hard for myself using the original passenger wing and part of the front panel and wondering why Iíve done it like that, so did I once I had started Worked out ok in the end, still needs finishing off but I was nursing a hangover. Also put some stuff back in the bay, bought a nice owens motorsport expansion bottle. The normal rover plastic tank cap opens at 1 bar, I went for a 15 lbs mini cap which is a close value. Thats everything in the bay that will be there, apart from the ecu. Also sprayed the subframe ends black, Iím trying to hide the conversion a bit









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Old 15-01-2018, 03:04 PM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by will16 View Post
With moving the engine, it altered my engine position so that the rear engine steady didnt fit. With some advice off here I made a new one using a series polybush's and tube and modified the solid rose joint front steady to make it less harsh.
Personally I wouldn't have used that polybush - my 1275 A-series shredded one in a fairly short time and I went back to rubber which has a bit more give.
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Old 21-01-2018, 06:44 PM   #143
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Personally I wouldn't have used that polybush - my 1275 A-series shredded one in a fairly short time and I went back to rubber which has a bit more give.
Thanks, I've ordered uprated one piece mpi ones now!

One step forward, two steps back atm. Thought I'd get the engine / new box back in the car yesterday, before that the brakes needed fitting. I bought Charly's old brake set up; minisport 7.9" vented alloy 4 pots, alot bigger than my old 7.5's! My new wheels need a 1/4" spacer to clear, but then I needed longer wheel studs for the nuts I've also had trouble with securing my outer cv boots as normal clips dont fit in the hubs, so lock wired them this this, should keep them from spraying grease everywhere.

Put the engine in, I couldnt resist putting the front end roughly on and seeing what its going to look like. I then tried to push it out the garage *clunk* feels like it stuck in gear, my gearbox building skills obviously arent up to scratch at all So the engine/box needs to come out again lol. Will be staying in the car for time being, need to cut the metal front around alternator / exhaust / radiator and make a new full 2" exhaust for it, so it can just be put together once the box is fixed.

But to lighten the mood, just bought another dream car of mine, FC RX7! Its a project, but will be fun, now I'm 20 with 3 cars and a work van





Longest wheel studs ever!




Bye 10x7's






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Old 28-01-2018, 10:55 PM   #144
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Put the engine in, I couldnt resist putting the front end roughly on and seeing what its going to look like. I then tried to push it out the garage *clunk* feels like it stuck in gear, my gearbox building skills obviously arent up to scratch at all
It's probably no coincidence that you've altered the engine position and now the gearbox won't turn - you'll need to alter the length of your selector shaft.
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Old 29-01-2018, 08:27 PM   #145
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It's probably no coincidence that you've altered the engine position and now the gearbox won't turn - you'll need to alter the length of your selector shaft.
Funny you should mention that, as I did think moving the engine up might have affected the driveshafts and gear linkage! I can still feel the gears through the gear stick however? And when the clutch is pushed in the car is still locked
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Old 15-02-2018, 06:54 PM   #146
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I'll give this a bit of an update... The problem I was previously having was that the car felt like it was stuck in gear and I couldnt move it. It was almost certainly a internal fault with the box, so I put off taking the engine out again to sort a few things out. First was the exhaust, went for a full 2" to the small back box with a 3" tip (yob ) Decided to go with flanges over v-band clamps as this is low and I dont want to be scraping through clamps and the metal cost me nothing to make the flanges! I then sorted out the front end, bent the valance to clear the subframe and cut lots and lots out of it to clear the various bit of the engine. With that done, engine could come out, got the box split off and then stripped it down.

I need to give a huge thanks to Andrew on here who was on the end of a phone helping me work out what was wrong with it. After pulling my box to pieces and alot of head scratching we found that 1st gear on the 2nd motion shaft was locked solid when the top nut was tightened anymore that hand tight. This is the shaft where I swapped all the gears onto as its a lower final drive set. At the bottom I found 2 washers, where there should of only been 1. I can only presume when I swapped the gears over the washer got stuck to the bottom of 1st gear and the new shaft already had one. Having that extra washer on the shaft meant that when the nut was tightened, first gear basically locked to the shaft (when it was meant to be free). With 1st locked meant even in neutral, 1st gear was selected so the diff, thus the driveshafts moved when no gear was selected. That's why when we tried to push the car, the wheels tried to turn, then the diff, then all the gears and finally the input shaft where it goes into the crank of the engine. A bench test of the box and it felt spot on

With that sorted, engine went back into the car. Did a load of neatening stuff, like soldering instead of connection blocks and water proof plugs for headlights instead of bullet connectors. Also forgot to fill the gearbox with oil before putting it in, which made filling it fun! Tried to tidy all the wiring on the inner wings and bulkhead too, I had drilled holes before paint to run wiring and gauge senders through, doesnt look too messy and the ecu covers the main bulkhead hole.

Few basically done pictures added, looks alot better than before imo, still a bit goofy at the front I feel, roof racks coming off and maybe the headlight covers. Just need to bleed the brakes and itll be road worthy again

As for bleeding the brakes, the fronts are completely dry, but the rears still have fluid in them. Should I get fluid through to the front calipers first, then go round and start properly bleeding the brakes from furthest point away, etc?


*

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Out...

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One bloody washer!

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In...

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Had my mate mod this to the correct side

*

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Bit of crinkle paint too

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Interior needed a good clean

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Last edited by will16; 15-02-2018 at 06:57 PM.
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Old 15-02-2018, 08:08 PM   #147
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Good to hear you are getting this back together again Will. I must admit doing gearbox builds via Facebook video chat wasn't the most ideal situation but the fact I have one in bits to copy off certainly has helped!

Get some road miles on it now. Having the C7 ratios (which needs bits from 3 boxes) should mean a nice quiet drive on the motorway. This will be about 500rpm less than me at 70. You have the best road going box for 10" wheels.

Your Mini is very low. If you are going to the Wales event, I would suggest raising it as there does look like some clearance issues for low cars.

On the subject of brakes, it shouldn't need the fronts to be full before bleeding the rears. You bleed from furthest from the master, to nearest. I see you are running a single line system. How does this balance the front to rear braking? Do the rear brakes lock up first in a emergency stop situation? Do you have a bias valve fitted?
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Last edited by AGoaty; 15-02-2018 at 08:17 PM.
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Old 15-02-2018, 11:38 PM   #148
will16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AGoaty View Post
Good to hear you are getting this back together again Will. I must admit doing gearbox builds via Facebook video chat wasn't the most ideal situation but the fact I have one in bits to copy off certainly has helped!

Get some road miles on it now. Having the C7 ratios (which needs bits from 3 boxes) should mean a nice quiet drive on the motorway. This will be about 500rpm less than me at 70. You have the best road going box for 10" wheels.

Your Mini is very low. If you are going to the Wales event, I would suggest raising it as there does look like some clearance issues for low cars.

On the subject of brakes, it shouldn't need the fronts to be full before bleeding the rears. You bleed from furthest from the master, to nearest. I see you are running a single line system. How does this balance the front to rear braking? Do the rear brakes lock up first in a emergency stop situation? Do you have a bias valve fitted?
Thanks Andrew, it wasnt ideal but I'm rather happy I can put this to bed now! I'm looking forward to using the new box on the road, keen to see how the torsen is too and yep, having looked at the wales track videos I will be raising it up

Brakes wise I believe its just the standard mk3 single line circuit, with a standard pressure regulator valve on the rear subframe. No bias valve, and iirc the front always locked under hard braking, never tried to swap ends!
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Old 16-02-2018, 09:52 AM   #149
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Hi Will, I see you have your 5AS on the inner wing, I don't think this is a good idea as it's not a water proof box that the electric's are in and the plugs are also not water proof! this could lead to you not being able to disarming the the immobiliser or even it cutting out whilst your driving
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