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Old 16-06-2014, 07:34 PM   #16
harrison541
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The angles for the floor mounts are complicated! Did half a days work on Saturday and just chopped it all out this evening to start again
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Old 16-06-2014, 08:38 PM   #17
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Why are you changing the mounts?
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Old 17-06-2014, 08:09 AM   #18
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if your going to the extent of reworking the rear mounts, tie them to the floor/heelboard join like a MK1 mini rather than the centre of the heelboard. the heelboard has a habit of cracking/flexing
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Old 18-06-2014, 07:22 PM   #19
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I tried to copy the solid mounts with a hexagonal piece of 3mm steel, but I wasnt happy with the angles where the bar joins to the plate. The heelboard looks ever so slightly bent inwards where the mounts go, which is why I was using a bigger plate but I'll go for a rectangular piece that tucks under the floor then, I've seen the zCars front subframes done like that too.

Wheres the best place to get a front end from, and how long should I expect it to take? I'm hoping to squeeze it all under a roundnose
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Old 30-06-2014, 07:56 PM   #20
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Mounts done:





The bottom cross brace hasn't gone in completely straight but as long as its solid it doesnt really matter. Although I can see me adjusting this later on.

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Old 05-07-2014, 07:42 PM   #21
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How the hell do you lot fit all this in??

It looks low down in the photo, but the cam cover on the drivers side is touching the bonnet lip bit:



bit of help from underneath:



I'll fit the front end first in its final position then try for fit again.

Also, how close are your dipsticks the the subframe tower? Looks like I might have clearance issues there too

Hate to say it, but I think a clubby front would have been a better idea haha
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:04 PM   #22
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Quote:
How the hell do you lot fit all this in??
With difficulty

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It looks low down in the photo, but the cam cover on the drivers side is touching the bonnet lip bit
You'll need to trim the channel that runs along the wing. I cut the whole channel off on mine, it isn't visible once the bonnet's on.

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Also, how close are your dipsticks the the subframe tower?
Very

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Hate to say it, but I think a clubby front would have been a better idea haha
Yeeaah but that's cheating
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Old 05-07-2014, 08:10 PM   #23
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Take cam cover off, look at it from underneath and you'll see you can grind off that entire corner without compromising anything.
Like this:
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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Old 18-07-2014, 08:59 PM   #24
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Cheers you two, still not convinced by a round front though the clearances are extremely tight!

Got both A panels fitted:



I want the gearbox as far back as possible to leave as much room for a radiator, but this puts the gearbox mount too far back:



So, if I move the back hole of the mount onto the front hole of the gearbox it gives a lot more room:



I'm hoping to use the front 2 unused holes to add an engine steady down to the front bar.

Last edited by harrison541; 23-12-2014 at 10:15 PM.
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Old 22-07-2014, 06:44 PM   #25
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Personally I wouldn't run without the cam covers fitted. One chipping and it's new engine time.

It does look very tight. People look at my Clubman and think that's tight but it's nothing like a roundnosed Mini with same engine.
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Old 22-07-2014, 07:19 PM   #26
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I wouldn't run without a cam cover either! There'll be oil everywhere!!
I'm on about the actual cam cover and not the cam belt cover.
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Old 23-08-2014, 09:35 PM   #27
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Sorry boys, I'm cheating haha





I've got the bonnet on the standard hinges, the front is going to be removable still, but not hinged.

Ive got some L brackets welded down the A-panel to wing lip, so it should look completely standard from the outside.

Still prefer round fronts I think, but I do like clubmans because they're a bit different. Looks a bit like a shrunk down Mk1 Golf front on a Mini.


The engine still needs to come upwards a bit more in this photo, but theres much more room in there around the cam belt area.



If I can make up my own take off plate for the oil filter, I'll get away with having the front bar of the subframe in the same position as the standard one so I can use the original mounts on the front panel. I can hopefully bend the bar towards the front, in the centre, to give clearance around the manifold too. Only the alternator to sort out, and I can get it all in its final position.

On a completely unrelated note, those 3 vent holes at the bottom of the front panel just look perfect for an intercooler!
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Old 22-11-2014, 06:38 PM   #28
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Been a while since I got on with this! Ive got another Mini being used as a daily so I've been working on that. I've had to replace a cracked subframe, weld in a new A panel and then paint it (with a roller )

After a flat back and a polish the roller painting has come out well, I'll probably be doing the same on this one, partially because I havent got anywhere to spray it and partially because I'm a complete tight peach

Anyway I've decided to start again with the subframe using the cracked one from my other Mini. It was cracked on the join between the two towers, the bit by the steering rack It clamps back in place fine so I can't see it causing a problem.

Ive decided to take inspiration from (copy) what others have done with the plate under the top arm:



Ive chopped out around the bottom arm and I'm going to add this 3mm plate, to give me something flat to work from:



And as MiniLandy has done I want to get a piece from the bottom arm mounting hole up to the plate under the top arm, this then gives me a U shaped section connecting the main tower to the box section.

The box section gets welded to the under neath of the plate in the photo and the funny shape of it gives some triangulation between the bottom legs and the floor mount bar.

I'm trying to build the frame as best as I can, taking into account what other people have done on here, but if anything looks dangerous or anyone spots a better way of doing something do let me know!

Last edited by harrison541; 13-12-2014 at 05:02 PM.
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Old 22-11-2014, 07:33 PM   #29
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What a shame your going clubman front , I need a new front to get rid of the stupid scoop I have

Good work though,keep it up
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Old 13-12-2014, 05:12 PM   #30
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Theres room to weld in the new before chopping out the old, so the rear lower floor mount bar was added before chopping out the old bit.

Again with the lower legs I've put them in before chopping out the old stuff so I can get both of them running parallel to the tie bar mounts without making a jig.



I want the front bar to be hidden behind the front end so I've raised it up slightly:







The front bar should sit just below the original mounts so I can add a plate and bolt through from the front of the car.

I've tried the engine in and it leaves me with about 2.5" to get a 2" exhaust through. Should be do-able but its not going to be easy.

I'm off till after christmas now so I'm hoping to get the upper legs done soon and have the engine mounted in the frame before the end of the year.
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