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Old 01-12-2017, 06:39 PM   #1
Beanman
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Default Caved in Jack points

So I have some concern in the viability of my shell after seeing the extent that my floorboard has been warped. The floorboard has caved on bother sides and has bubbled up the area inside the car with a diameter of almost 1 foot. I'm just concerned that whatever geometry/stability problems this creates will be exacerbated by the heavier more powerful engine (b18c). What do you guys think?

I'm going to try and beat it will a hammer once I manage to find another way to support it, at that point ill try to measure the geometry.

What do you guys think?

I've attached pictures but it is to see the extent of the damage.

https://ibb.co/kR8u4b
https://ibb.co/jgCbHw
https://ibb.co/dT0wHw
https://ibb.co/mDHbHw
https://ibb.co/jfVwHw
https://ibb.co/mePCqG
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File Type: jpg IMG_1349.jpg (157 Bytes, 180 views)

Last edited by Beanman; 01-12-2017 at 06:43 PM. Reason: Attaching Images
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:45 PM   #2
l_jonez
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They are not are not jacking points, you should only jack under the subframes
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Old 01-12-2017, 08:52 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by l_jonez View Post
They are not are not jacking points, you should only jack under the subframes
as said !! it will go back nearly as it was, put the mini on floor and stand in the well part or give it a clump with your foot with a decent boot on,
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Old 02-12-2017, 02:19 AM   #4
Harley
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A previous owner did the same to my car thinking it was a jack point.
I just put a block of wood over it inside the car and hit it with a bit hammer a few times and it has returned to original shape for the modt part.
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Old 02-12-2017, 04:43 PM   #5
Beanman
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Quote:
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They are not are not jacking points, you should only jack under the subframes
What if the subframe has been removed?
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Old 02-12-2017, 11:52 PM   #6
250ptm
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I use two trolley jacks, (or bottle jacks) positioned at each side of the car at the center crossmember (where the original jacking points were) Close the doors. I put a 6" piece of wood at least 2 inches thick across the entire width of the car between each trolley jack and start to Jack up both sides a little at time, it will eventually begin to raise both the front and rear wheels off the ground. While raising the car on the jacks, I put axle stands “loosely” under the front and rear corners of the bodywork to help balance the car, ideally I use a full width piece of 2x4 between the axle stands at the front and rear. As the car goes up on the trolley jacks, I follow it up with the axle stands till I get to the height I want. Then I slowly lower the car to rest “lightly” on the axle stands, and leave the trolley jacks in place. When lowering the car, the axle stands are dropped a little at a time and followed up with the the trolley jacks. Ive done this more than once and can still open and close the doors without any binding while its supported this way, even when the car has all subframes and the engine in. It gives me enough room to work under the car in safety. Im not saying you should follow my directions, just that this works for me.
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Old 05-12-2017, 01:29 AM   #7
Beanman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 250ptm View Post
I use two trolley jacks, (or bottle jacks) positioned at each side of the car at the center crossmember (where the original jacking points were) Close the doors. I put a 6" piece of wood at least 2 inches thick across the entire width of the car between each trolley jack and start to Jack up both sides a little at time, it will eventually begin to raise both the front and rear wheels off the ground. While raising the car on the jacks, I put axle stands “loosely” under the front and rear corners of the bodywork to help balance the car, ideally I use a full width piece of 2x4 between the axle stands at the front and rear. As the car goes up on the trolley jacks, I follow it up with the axle stands till I get to the height I want. Then I slowly lower the car to rest “lightly” on the axle stands, and leave the trolley jacks in place. When lowering the car, the axle stands are dropped a little at a time and followed up with the the trolley jacks. Ive done this more than once and can still open and close the doors without any binding while its supported this way, even when the car has all subframes and the engine in. It gives me enough room to work under the car in safety. Im not saying you should follow my directions, just that this works for me.
This method worked like a charm, thanks!
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Old 05-12-2017, 04:37 AM   #8
Harley
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Does the above method require counterweights in the boot if the engine up front is bigger than A-Series?
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Old 06-12-2017, 05:47 AM   #9
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Beanman, glad it worked for you.

Harley,
I did not use any counterweights at all. The method I described was with the honda engine and all front and rear suspension completely installed.

In fact I've noticed that the c/g of (MY) car, is slightly aft of the center cross-member, so the rear tends to lift a little after the fronts.

I could compensate for this by moving the trolley jacks further back but that would mean moving away from the strongest part of the car (the cross-member) That's why I put axle stands under the front and rear corners to limit the angle of tilt while its being raised.
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Old 06-12-2017, 08:30 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beanman View Post
What if the subframe has been removed?
without engine and frames the floor wont bend, even with just the frames in it wont, its normall to spred the load a bit with wood, the shell dont weigh much at all,
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Old 08-12-2017, 03:55 AM   #11
longlivekel
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some azz.hat did that to my old mini.
block of wood and rubber mallet on the other side fixes it!
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