1973 b18 clubman weekender - Page 3

monkey · 30-10-2016, 09:37 AM

I've been after a stainless manifold like that which is like the OEM style. Can I ask where you got it from?

Cheers

fordy · 30-10-2016, 09:43 AM

I was the same. Looked for this specific design as I know it would suit my frame etc. Just an eBay job. I was looking one evening an this got listed as I was looking. Second hand but never fitted.
Sorry can't be more help.

fordy · 30-10-2016, 10:17 PM

Couldn't resist throwing some bits on today just for effect. And also had a play on this app if found a while ago which lets you change the colours on any picture. Great for coming up with ideas. So changed the rocker cover to black just to see what it would look like.

Realised now that I still need a fair few parts. Again only small bits so will have to wait a couple of days while I get them ordered.

I need to get the engine squared in the frame so will make some stainless spacers for the mounts at work this week.

leon · 30-10-2016, 10:28 PM

whats the app called

fordy · 30-10-2016, 10:30 PM

Colour effects. Very good. Really easy to use.

Yellow · 31-10-2016, 05:19 AM

Looking great! Have you thought about colour matching the rocker cover to the body?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

leon · 31-10-2016, 11:33 AM

Where did you get your billet engine mounts and how much?

Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk

fordy · 31-10-2016, 04:52 PM

I did think about that yes. I may also do it wrinkle black with the middle insert and writing body coloured. Too many choices!!

They are hasport mounts, again found on eBay or can go direct to their website.
They were around the £140 mark which I thought was very reasonable.

keitht · 31-10-2016, 09:00 PM

Maybe I have missed it but what did you use to paint the engine? Looks super by the way.

fordy · 31-10-2016, 09:20 PM

Thanks keitht.
I used POR15 manifold grey on the engine. Just hand brushed on. Went on really well and the finish is great.

fordy · 18-11-2016, 10:05 PM

Well I have been busy. Had a week off this week so made some good progress.

Fitted some new drive shaft seals to the box, then fitted the shafts and built up the suspension.

Wasn't surprised about the angle of the shafts as I knew it would be bad. Would like to see it on the wheels to see if it changes any.

Hubs and rest of suspension components on.

Got the calipers on but got given a wrong banjo bolt when I had my lines made up so can't fit that side until I get another. They are the minisport alloy 4 pots.

Whilst at work also made some spacers on the lathe for the engine mounts.

Rear mount on.

Then started on the gear linkage. As mine is a 1973 it does have a narrower tunnel so space for the linkage and exhaust is going to be limited. So wanted the linkage to sit to the one side of the tunnel to leave as much room as possible for the exhaust. This did require cutting the floor out a little more.

Also to leave even more room I decided to mount the shifter unit on top on the floor rather than underneath.

Then made sure that the stick was going to be upright while in neutral before I made the rod.

Rods cut to length and tacked in position. Managed to go through all the gears without any drama. Result!!!

All welded up. Just need a kick of paint. Also bought a double bend short shifter.

Threw the alternator on. Bracket works a treat. Very happy with it.

Now while waiting for some parts I decided I might as well strip the cam cover. So got some nitromors and had a crack at it.

Gloved up and covered the cover in it. Lovely stuff I must say.

And after applying a load more. About 40 mins later I was left with this.......

Exactly the bloody same!!!!! I followed the instructions down to the letter. Had no effect what so ever!! Couldn't understand why it hadn't worked. So just ended up getting it blasted.

Before I could get the inlet manifold on I needed to get the engine loom on and all connected up. But this needed a tidy, so purchased some braided sleeving which is split so can just be slipped over the loom. Looks great and saves taking any plugs off.

End result.

In position and fed through the bulkhead.

Finally managed to get the inlet on. I did need to replace the studs for some longer ones as I'm using a tegiwa thermal insulating gasket which is quite thick.
Starting to get crowded in there now.

Happy with how it's looking though. Next need to fit the gear linkage back on as I've repainted around where I cut the floor and also made a plate to blank off the rest of the original selector hole.

Fit the fuel lines to the rail using braided hose and anodised fittings.

And then on to the wiring!! Dreading it if I'm honest. I have the mini loom which looks to be all labelled up ( I didn't remove it myself) and is in good nick. Then go through the Honda loom again to double check and maybe shorten. Finally try and mate them together.
Sounds easy right!?!?!?

bartman · 27-11-2016, 09:45 PM

awesome build, love that colour.

fordy · 28-11-2016, 04:54 PM

Thanks 'bartman'. Can't wait to be able to get some chrome parts on it. Think it will really set it off.

Does any one know of any reason why i couldn't use a smiths tachometer? This is the one I've been looking at. As it's wired negative earth. I can't see a problem with it, just making sure before I go ahead and spend my beer tokens on it.

http://www.minispares.com/product/Cl...px%7CBack%20to

fordy · 01-12-2016, 11:48 PM

Haha. Sorry Ian. Not used to all this technology malarkey! Can just about add the pictures to my thread! Ha.

So some more ticks off the list.
finished running the fuel lines to the rail. Did come across one problem though when fitting the return from the FPR.
With the fittings I bought, they came way to close to the bulkhead so after ordering 2 more lots finally managed to solve it.

Before.

After. Much better.

So feed and return sorted.

Then back on its wheels.

On to the wiring. Pretty much sorted the car loom out. Luckily the original is in really good nick. Stripped out everything I don't need, alternator wires etc.
Been throwing it in and out and finally got some power on to it today. Still needs a bit more work but not far away.

fordy · 18-12-2016, 11:02 AM

Finally got the car loom sorted, all connected up and everything works. Result!!!!
As my front end is removable I needed to make the front loom detachable and after a lot of searching for some nice small, neat connectors I ended up just using a trailer plug. Hate the look of it but as it's tucked up under the wing it won't be seen anyway.

Lights all in and working.

Won't be using the clocks but just though I'd check it all works.

The front loom plugs position.

Got the fuel filter also mounted.

I decided to send my Honda loom away to be further stripped and sorted. I'd done most of the work to it just needed a final tear down. Sent it away to VDM motorsport, which I can't recommend enough. The chap called Dave was a massive help and has a lot of experience with Honda engine swaps.
So got the loom back And then this happened................... a huge milestone in this project.

After working in it for an hour with it not starting finally found that I had a bad live connection on the battery. Sorted that and fired straight up. Proper stoked!!

30-10-2016, 09:37 AM	#31
monkey Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: London Posts: 883 Subframe: Allspeed CC: 1600 Make: Honda ECU: A box of chips	I've been after a stainless manifold like that which is like the OEM style. Can I ask where you got it from? Cheers __________________ An expert is someone who tells you why you can't do something- Alec Issigonis

30-10-2016, 10:28 PM	#34
leon Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Nottingham, UK Posts: 57 Subframe: Other CC: 1.8 Make: Honda ECU: Hondata	whats the app called __________________ I live like my blood type is B positive

31-10-2016, 11:33 AM	#37
leon Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Nottingham, UK Posts: 57 Subframe: Other CC: 1.8 Make: Honda ECU: Hondata	Where did you get your billet engine mounts and how much? Sent from my D6503 using Tapatalk __________________ I live like my blood type is B positive

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30-10-2016, 09:43 AM	#32
fordy Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: telford,shropshire Posts: 54 Subframe: Other CC: 1800 Make: Honda ECU: Standard P9k	I was the same. Looked for this specific design as I know it would suit my frame etc. Just an eBay job. I was looking one evening an this got listed as I was looking. Second hand but never fitted. Sorry can't be more help.

30-10-2016, 10:17 PM	#33
fordy Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: telford,shropshire Posts: 54 Subframe: Other CC: 1800 Make: Honda ECU: Standard P9k	Couldn't resist throwing some bits on today just for effect. And also had a play on this app if found a while ago which lets you change the colours on any picture. Great for coming up with ideas. So changed the rocker cover to black just to see what it would look like. Realised now that I still need a fair few parts. Again only small bits so will have to wait a couple of days while I get them ordered. I need to get the engine squared in the frame so will make some stainless spacers for the mounts at work this week.

30-10-2016, 10:30 PM	#35
fordy Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: telford,shropshire Posts: 54 Subframe: Other CC: 1800 Make: Honda ECU: Standard P9k	Colour effects. Very good. Really easy to use.

31-10-2016, 05:19 AM	#36
Yellow Senior Member Join Date: May 2009 Location: Aylesbury, Bucks Posts: 508 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1.8VVC Make: Rover ECU: Rover MEMS3 with Kmaps upgrade	Looking great! Have you thought about colour matching the rocker cover to the body? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

31-10-2016, 04:52 PM	#38
fordy Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: telford,shropshire Posts: 54 Subframe: Other CC: 1800 Make: Honda ECU: Standard P9k	I did think about that yes. I may also do it wrinkle black with the middle insert and writing body coloured. Too many choices!! They are hasport mounts, again found on eBay or can go direct to their website. They were around the £140 mark which I thought was very reasonable.

31-10-2016, 09:00 PM	#39
keitht Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Dundalk Posts: 458 Subframe: Allspeed CC: 1615 Make: Honda ECU: Hondata	Maybe I have missed it but what did you use to paint the engine? Looks super by the way.

31-10-2016, 09:20 PM	#40
fordy Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: telford,shropshire Posts: 54 Subframe: Other CC: 1800 Make: Honda ECU: Standard P9k	Thanks keitht. I used POR15 manifold grey on the engine. Just hand brushed on. Went on really well and the finish is great.

18-11-2016, 10:05 PM	#41
fordy Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: telford,shropshire Posts: 54 Subframe: Other CC: 1800 Make: Honda ECU: Standard P9k	Well I have been busy. Had a week off this week so made some good progress. Fitted some new drive shaft seals to the box, then fitted the shafts and built up the suspension. Wasn't surprised about the angle of the shafts as I knew it would be bad. Would like to see it on the wheels to see if it changes any. Hubs and rest of suspension components on. Got the calipers on but got given a wrong banjo bolt when I had my lines made up so can't fit that side until I get another. They are the minisport alloy 4 pots. Whilst at work also made some spacers on the lathe for the engine mounts. Rear mount on. Then started on the gear linkage. As mine is a 1973 it does have a narrower tunnel so space for the linkage and exhaust is going to be limited. So wanted the linkage to sit to the one side of the tunnel to leave as much room as possible for the exhaust. This did require cutting the floor out a little more. Also to leave even more room I decided to mount the shifter unit on top on the floor rather than underneath. Then made sure that the stick was going to be upright while in neutral before I made the rod. Rods cut to length and tacked in position. Managed to go through all the gears without any drama. Result!!! All welded up. Just need a kick of paint. Also bought a double bend short shifter. Threw the alternator on. Bracket works a treat. Very happy with it. Now while waiting for some parts I decided I might as well strip the cam cover. So got some nitromors and had a crack at it. Gloved up and covered the cover in it. Lovely stuff I must say. And after applying a load more. About 40 mins later I was left with this....... Exactly the bloody same!!!!! I followed the instructions down to the letter. Had no effect what so ever!! Couldn't understand why it hadn't worked. So just ended up getting it blasted. Before I could get the inlet manifold on I needed to get the engine loom on and all connected up. But this needed a tidy, so purchased some braided sleeving which is split so can just be slipped over the loom. Looks great and saves taking any plugs off. End result. In position and fed through the bulkhead. Finally managed to get the inlet on. I did need to replace the studs for some longer ones as I'm using a tegiwa thermal insulating gasket which is quite thick. Starting to get crowded in there now. Happy with how it's looking though. Next need to fit the gear linkage back on as I've repainted around where I cut the floor and also made a plate to blank off the rest of the original selector hole. Fit the fuel lines to the rail using braided hose and anodised fittings. And then on to the wiring!! Dreading it if I'm honest. I have the mini loom which looks to be all labelled up ( I didn't remove it myself) and is in good nick. Then go through the Honda loom again to double check and maybe shorten. Finally try and mate them together. Sounds easy right!?!?!?

27-11-2016, 09:45 PM	#42
bartman Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2012 Location: Cornwall Posts: 181 Subframe: MTB CC: 1600 Make: Honda ECU: standard honda	awesome build, love that colour.

28-11-2016, 04:54 PM	#43
fordy Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: telford,shropshire Posts: 54 Subframe: Other CC: 1800 Make: Honda ECU: Standard P9k	Thanks 'bartman'. Can't wait to be able to get some chrome parts on it. Think it will really set it off. Does any one know of any reason why i couldn't use a smiths tachometer? This is the one I've been looking at. As it's wired negative earth. I can't see a problem with it, just making sure before I go ahead and spend my beer tokens on it. http://www.minispares.com/product/Cl...px%7CBack%20to

01-12-2016, 11:48 PM	#44
fordy Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: telford,shropshire Posts: 54 Subframe: Other CC: 1800 Make: Honda ECU: Standard P9k	Haha. Sorry Ian. Not used to all this technology malarkey! Can just about add the pictures to my thread! Ha. So some more ticks off the list. finished running the fuel lines to the rail. Did come across one problem though when fitting the return from the FPR. With the fittings I bought, they came way to close to the bulkhead so after ordering 2 more lots finally managed to solve it. Before. After. Much better. So feed and return sorted. Then back on its wheels. On to the wiring. Pretty much sorted the car loom out. Luckily the original is in really good nick. Stripped out everything I don't need, alternator wires etc. Been throwing it in and out and finally got some power on to it today. Still needs a bit more work but not far away.

18-12-2016, 11:02 AM	#45
fordy Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: telford,shropshire Posts: 54 Subframe: Other CC: 1800 Make: Honda ECU: Standard P9k	Finally got the car loom sorted, all connected up and everything works. Result!!!! As my front end is removable I needed to make the front loom detachable and after a lot of searching for some nice small, neat connectors I ended up just using a trailer plug. Hate the look of it but as it's tucked up under the wing it won't be seen anyway. Lights all in and working. Won't be using the clocks but just though I'd check it all works. The front loom plugs position. Got the fuel filter also mounted. I decided to send my Honda loom away to be further stripped and sorted. I'd done most of the work to it just needed a final tear down. Sent it away to VDM motorsport, which I can't recommend enough. The chap called Dave was a massive help and has a lot of experience with Honda engine swaps. So got the loom back And then this happened................... a huge milestone in this project. After working in it for an hour with it not starting finally found that I had a bad live connection on the battery. Sorted that and fired straight up. Proper stoked!!