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Old 30-07-2016, 01:14 PM   #16
Austinvti
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After having some sad news to my family, i thought of pushing this project to something later or stop it.

But doing stuff in my garage helps a lot.

So i did a bit:


ECU is in place and some mounting points added:



The cover still in card board:



Also decided to go for a complete new scuttle panel instead of repairing it:



Thought about some boxes for the hinges in this way:



But i was going this way:



Same to the other side. It is completly removeable and will be attached with some sealing after install of the doors.



The inner wings were also rusted so i replaced some metall:




The hole is for the loom going to the fuse box:

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Old 30-07-2016, 01:27 PM   #17
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Default The rear axle

Next Chapter was to attach the rear stub of the honda to a metro xp radius arm. So it was nessesary to activate the mill:

This:

Must into this:


Some compared parts:


put together:



at work:



In place:


chapter "rear axle" will be continued later
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Old 30-07-2016, 01:36 PM   #18
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Default Wheel housing

To have also a lot of space for up to 15" (195/45 R15) i had to increase the diameter of the housings










Hmm: What Wheel should it be?

15"

or:

14"


the other side also:







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Old 30-07-2016, 01:42 PM   #19
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First try with the 14": The wheel is turning correctly:

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Old 07-08-2016, 03:18 PM   #20
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After the wheel is spinning correctly, i had to adjust the track of the rear and welded it up instantly. In the rear i added a piece of cubed tube to give the cutted area a bit more strength.





Also i shortened the rear frame 5cm or 2.5cm each side, so it was necessary to add new mounting points. Comparing to the front frame i also go for a fixed frame



waiting for welding, the rear fixing point:

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Old 07-08-2016, 03:43 PM   #21
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Default Adding the steering

I had to go for a complete new firewall in the area of the footwell. So it was also important to mount the steering
i decided to go for the mini quickrack (2.2 turns per side) so i used the old mounting panel of the old rusty footwell panel:



Steering in Place. Smaller steering-joint boots for the steering will avoid rubbing in this area. Hope so



To have no contact between steering rack and the frame i made a bit place for it and cut a small box to the frame.



As you can see the track of the MGF is much more wider than the minis original track. So there is usualy a gap between Steering and outer tie rod end:




Next step on the list is it to finally weld the frame up correctly with some knot panels and to stiff it up . If no other "next step" will interrupt me at this point . Muhahahhhaaa
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Old 07-08-2016, 04:29 PM   #22
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all good there,, love the vans and pick ups,
are you going to fill in the factory built in bedliner ruster holes?
them ones under the bed. the water traps
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Old 07-08-2016, 07:21 PM   #23
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Hey. No i think i will let them open but fill it with a lot of grease or better rust preventing stuff available :P

Closing the holes might force the same like non venting sills. It will rust rust much faster. What you see in the pictures is only superficial rust.
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Old 30-08-2016, 02:42 AM   #24
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Time for a small update

Finally i finished the complete floor.
cut out the shape of where the exhaust pipe will be:


made a piece of metall which will close it:


and bended it and welded in:





side view:


grinded:



just for testing (sort of pipe will change):


And also tried with some pipe how to create the exhaust.... how will it look with the 65mm pipe

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Old 30-08-2016, 02:55 AM   #25
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Thats the floor for the moment and the actual last picture i have taken:



Right now, the seams were sealed and i made the final ​​preparations for the stone chip.

After this i will finish the "dash" and also the complete pedalbox including shift lever, hand brake cables, and so on .


Since I do not reach the ideal pedal travel caused by going upwards with the brake booster , I came with the following solution :



and in detail:

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Old 05-09-2016, 02:40 AM   #26
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As i mentioned in this Thread i am going to fit disc brakes including the hand brake at the rear.

So some months ago i bought new discs and pads for front and rear. New bearing were necessary also.

The rear setup consists of:
  • Rover Metro XP radius arms
  • hub from the donor car (unscrewed from the radius arms)and milled down to fit in the radius arm
  • Rover / Honda hoses (later i will go for steel covered hoses)
  • hand brake cables
  • calibers from a 1997 CRX delsol si
  • new 4.75mm cunifer hoses
  • pieces from the donor car for fiting the cables / hoses
  • hand made adapters for the rear calibers (will be milled from 7075 Aluminium

I started with this:



and went to this:

rear caliber hold in place:



holes for the cables and the water pipes (reason: the radiotor will sit in the rear frame [more will follow]) were drilled. To prevent rubbing some body plugs will follow



right rear caliber clamped in place and made some fixing points for the brake hoses:





this is the way where the cable will go go its way. I think i will change the cables into a longer one from a car with disc brakes



Holder for the hoses already welded on:



The way how the hoses will go through the rear frame without rubbing and touching the suspension:





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Old 05-09-2016, 02:50 AM   #27
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The adapter (draft) holds the caliber in place and everything fits together very neat



disc and caliber are now a very charming couple :P




In the inside of the mini i took the old mini brake lever (i forgot to save the honda's) so i manged it to this:





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Old 06-09-2016, 07:04 AM   #28
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because i like it to build from scratch, i tormented CATIA a bit:

rear brake adapter:


front brake adapter + technical drawing:





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Old 12-09-2016, 05:26 PM   #29
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Default rear axle finished. Start of cooling system.

As i told, i like to finish the rear and go for discs of the honda, i did so and finished it finally:

Let pictures speak:

Sideview of how the hand brake cables will sit:



Due to the last moving from one garage to the new one, i lost so much parts what i need now . And because some parts are hard to find or the price is not worth to pay for, i built a holder and a levers from scratch to fix the cables.
Ingredients for this were only a old pair of drum brake holders and a bit of 2mm steel.

So i came with this:


resetting springs are still missing on both calipers, yet. But that counts to the solved problems




"Cooler radiator in the rear frame"


instead of using the honda rad or how i planed, to build in a cooler from the VW Polo G60, i bought a VW Golf 3 1.9 TDI Rad (very cheap and big enough).
I'd like to mount it between the rear spring housing like this:






Before i set up the final mounting points, i have to find a solution for this problem :P


Contact-alert

How to realize the air flow? First i thought to go for this:


To not build a undergroud spoiler and go for a short flight like Mercedes in 1999 with their CLR GT1, i will create a porsche like cooler cover with small vents and another guide which will let the air flow out faster.

The goal is to create a slight vakuum (downforce) that there is no lift effect because the Mini weighs not much at the rear. :P
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Old 12-09-2016, 09:52 PM   #30
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nice work like the rear disc setup. Dont see a reason why the rad wouldn't cool, with a scoop and the amount of flow under the car it will be more efficient than a front mounted
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