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Old 09-11-2017, 07:48 AM   #271
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thanks,

What Im looking into now is the bench run and fitting it all in the front before going to paint.

two questions.

1. Gonna go minitec loom. Now I know that takes care of the engine and Ill need a new rear and front harness for the mini. Is there anything that doesnt have all the engine cables or would I have to cut those out? and if Im correct post fuse box and switches there shouldnt be anykind of relay that I am forgetting?

2. Break boost. To boost or not to boost? Pros and cons. I see some do it. Others dont. Is there a tiny model thatll do the job or do I need an integra break boost? I dont think it should be an issue.

Thanks.

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Old 09-11-2017, 08:24 PM   #272
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After some studying of the electrics it looks like an EZ wire kit may be the most cost effective way to go about it while I can do some stuff that is simple but Ive never done before so it should be a sensible challenge.
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Old 10-11-2017, 04:07 AM   #273
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That was the route I went with my mini
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Old 11-11-2017, 07:51 PM   #274
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Thanks Jolt.

I really think this is the way forward. Still some homework to do.

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Old 12-11-2017, 09:49 PM   #275
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I picked up a 8 fuse kit online and then added a bunch of relays as needed
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Old 29-11-2017, 10:35 AM   #276
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Hey guys,

Is the 4 point roll cage a must? Or is that just a nice to have.

Opinions and experiences here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
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Old 29-11-2017, 12:12 PM   #277
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Cages generate a lot of opinion for and against - there is no hard and fast answer. They way I see it is that a crash at say 60mph is a crash at 60mph irrespective of whether you've got a 35bhp 850 or a 300bhp turbo 16v nutter engine. The argument is that you are likely to get to 60mph much faster and be there longer so increases the chances of crashing at 60mph.

On the flip side a cage puts nice thick metal bars right where your head will hit it in the event of an accident so whilst the car might stand up to the impact better you may increase your injuries or possibly likelihood of death by head injury with a cage fitted.

Minis were designed before crumple zones and being light they do not have much momentum so stop quickly in an accident - it's not falling off a building that kills you its the sudden stop when you reach the ground that does. The stiffer you make the car the more of the forces are transferred to the occupants potentially increasing injury as the ability to crumple safely is almost non-existent. The solid front subframe and engine mounted tight against the bulkhead and up to the grill means that there is a solid unyielding lump that will want to punch itself through the floor and bulkhead on a head on crash and come met you in the cabin. The doors, sills and roof will only take so much force before they bend and the passenger compartment will be compromised. A cage may stop this but the forces will be transferred to the occupants so whilst you may not be crushed you'll have terrible injuries from being flung around inside by the cage causing the crumpling of the car to cease suddenly.

Side impact is something not worth thinking about as your shoulder pretty much sits against the door pillar. These days, pull up at 90 degrees to the front of an Audi Q7, Volvo XC-90, Range Rover etc and you'll quickly realise their bumper is at your head height, you are pretty much looking straight at their reg plate !

Cages work best when combined with bucket seats, harnesses and helmets. Drivers survive epic F1 crashes because a) the cars are designed to crumple and eject pieces all which dissipate energy from the crash away from the driver and b) the drivers are strapped so tight in to the car that they effectively form part of it and don't flail around inside during an impact.

Basically Minis are by current standards not particularly occupant friendly in an accident. Best advice is to drive defensively and try not to crash If the above scares you give up on a Mini and go buy something modern and safe
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Old 29-11-2017, 03:04 PM   #278
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Thanks Oz,

Really hit a lot of bases there and I appreciate your direct approach.

As I just retired from 14 years military. 11 of which was with special operations and having done completely stupid things such as jumping out of aircraft from 25K feet. I feel perfectly comfortable in my MINI and the defensive driving is most likely the best advice as I will not be racing at a track.

I was concerned about maybe torquing of the vehicle due to the pull of the engine. I dont pretend Im an expert about this cause I am not. Just stuff I heard.

In conclusion I think I will stay away from the cage as the shipping, customs and exchange rates in Canada are silly.

Thanks again.

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Old 29-11-2017, 03:44 PM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30 mm View Post
Hey guys,

Is the 4 point roll cage a must? Or is that just a nice to have.

Opinions and experiences here would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.
Be sure before you buy or build a cage for your mini that bit will not affect your insurance.

When I built my V8 mini the insurance companies had a problem with the fact it had a cage in it and did not have an issue with the corvette motor I stuffed into it. It was a pain to get it insured. My current mini will be on the roads first and I will add a bolt in cage if I need it later on. Just something to consider for someone who also lives in Ontario as well...,
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Old 29-11-2017, 04:18 PM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 30 mm View Post
Thanks Oz,

Really hit a lot of bases there and I appreciate your direct approach.

As I just retired from 14 years military. 11 of which was with special operations and having done completely stupid things such as jumping out of aircraft from 25K feet. I feel perfectly comfortable in my MINI and the defensive driving is most likely the best advice as I will not be racing at a track.

I was concerned about maybe torquing of the vehicle due to the pull of the engine. I dont pretend Im an expert about this cause I am not. Just stuff I heard.

In conclusion I think I will stay away from the cage as the shipping, customs and exchange rates in Canada are silly.

Thanks again.

30
No worries.

I wouldn't worry about affecting the body. I see you are using a B16, they pull between 110-130lb/ft, very hard to alter max torque without increasing capacity. A big bore and stroke A series with a decent head and cam will hit 110lb/ft and turbo/supercharged A series will pass 150lb/ft. in the grand scale of things you aren't increasing torque much beyond what the A series boys have been getting foe decades so if it was an issue on the shell then it'd be widely known about by now. A good solid shell shouldn't be stressed by the torque of a B16. Also remember that the engine is mounted transversely so the torque is effectively twisting the engine at 90 degrees to the shell and it is not directly connected to the shell, it is bolted in to a subframe which, if the builders have done their design properly should not be transferring any movement in to the shell itself, the body itself is merely being dragged around by the front subframe.
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New subframe fitting has begun - slowly

Build Thread - Standard Round Nose with K series subframe build begun

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Old 18-12-2017, 01:17 PM   #281
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Hi all,

Im still a few month away for a final assembly. Looking forward into the project is there a copy somewhere that has the specs to every bolt for the vehicles assembly?

Also, what are the best nuts and bolts to buy? No idea.

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Old 18-12-2017, 03:29 PM   #282
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let us dare ! not shure if there is a list of nuts ect,
i think its pritty much self explanary 30,
the strange bolt i can think of is back subframe into heal pannel, the head socket size is small because its dificalt to get a socket onto,
i use softer stainless when ever i can, i have been critisized for that on more than 1 ocastion but i dont mind a point of veiw but i spent so much time trying to undo rusty bolts that i dont care lol,
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