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Old 04-07-2011, 08:39 AM   #16
wilp99
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Originally Posted by billing5 View Post
willp99, what do you think the power gains would be swapping to the p72, worth it or not also how would you go about the p9k immobliser

i dont think theres much to be had, if you can get the obd1 p72 at a good price its worth the upgrade, the main downfall of the c4 in a mini is the iab's are removed as you change out the intake manifold, this changes the intake air pressure which makes the car run alittle rich ive been using the p9k for over a year now, and i constantly get about 40 (US) mpg. the p72 still has iab control. both will run fine, with the iab's removed, so long story short, id get a p28 and have it chipped/dyno'd for your setup. unless you want to go hondata, or neptune (you can change maps on the fly).

and as far as the immob goes, do a search, ive posted a link of a how to, which works because ive done it. actually when my s300 shows up ill be selling my bypassed p9k on here which should get someone going. the only reason im changing to s300 is im puttin in some itr cams and a few other goddies. otherwise i would just run the p9k.
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Old 04-07-2011, 05:00 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by wilp99 View Post
i dont think theres much to be had, if you can get the obd1 p72 at a good price its worth the upgrade, the main downfall of the c4 in a mini is the iab's are removed as you change out the intake manifold, this changes the intake air pressure which makes the car run alittle rich ive been using the p9k for over a year now, and i constantly get about 40 (US) mpg. the p72 still has iab control. both will run fine, with the iab's removed, so long story short, id get a p28 and have it chipped/dyno'd for your setup. unless you want to go hondata, or neptune (you can change maps on the fly).

and as far as the immob goes, do a search, ive posted a link of a how to, which works because ive done it. actually when my s300 shows up ill be selling my bypassed p9k on here which should get someone going. the only reason im changing to s300 is im puttin in some itr cams and a few other goddies. otherwise i would just run the p9k.
ok thanks mate, will have a search for that now and see how i go on the ecu front. think i will upgrade just to get the best from it as you say
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Old 04-07-2011, 05:10 PM   #18
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Just a heads up (and you probably know already) but when it comes to inlet manifolds, the C1 & C4 use a different port and stud spacing to other B16/18 lumps. So not all manifolds fit!!.
I got a Blox (Skunk2 copy) from the US on ebay for mucho cheaper than the Skunk2 is over here...
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:51 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Brumski View Post
Just a heads up (and you probably know already) but when it comes to inlet manifolds, the C1 & C4 use a different port and stud spacing to other B16/18 lumps. So not all manifolds fit!!.
I got a Blox (Skunk2 copy) from the US on ebay for mucho cheaper than the Skunk2 is over here...
Thanks Brumski,
I was actually wondering about that Blox deal... Looked kinda iffy to me, like something "I" would make in my garage and sell on ebay. and the fact hat it is definatly "mucho más barato" than the skunk2 kinda scared me. How do you like it? Any chance it could be modified easier than the others to clear the firewall??
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Old 04-07-2011, 10:53 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by wilp99 View Post
i dont think theres much to be had, if you can get the obd1 p72 at a good price its worth the upgrade, the main downfall of the c4 in a mini is the iab's are removed as you change out the intake manifold, this changes the intake air pressure which makes the car run alittle rich ive been using the p9k for over a year now, and i constantly get about 40 (US) mpg. the p72 still has iab control. both will run fine, with the iab's removed, so long story short, id get a p28 and have it chipped/dyno'd for your setup. unless you want to go hondata, or neptune (you can change maps on the fly).

and as far as the immob goes, do a search, ive posted a link of a how to, which works because ive done it. actually when my s300 shows up ill be selling my bypassed p9k on here which should get someone going. the only reason im changing to s300 is im puttin in some itr cams and a few other goddies. otherwise i would just run the p9k.

Wilp, i think we will be having an ECM talk once i get everything up and running heh.. if your willing to deal with an ECM idiot for a minute.
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Old 05-07-2011, 09:18 AM   #21
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Any chance it could be modified easier than the others to clear the firewall??
On mine, it will still need modifiying to clear the bulkhead as any manifold will when using a standard roundnose front but it least it's a LOT cheaper than a Skunk2 unit if I mess it up !!
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Old 19-07-2011, 11:39 PM   #22
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Hey guys, just poking around on ebay the other day and I found this.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ACURA...Q5fCarQ5fParts



Here are the specs:

-Gets rid of the Long Runner type manifold and replaces it with a Short Runner Velocity Stack High HP Manifold
-This manifold allows you to use on OEM or aftermarket throttle body
-Constructed of 5052 Aluminum, TIG welded and pressure tested
-The flange is a HUGE 1/2" thick alumium flange that is decked for perfect sealing
-Increased volumetric efficiency by 70% over stock intake manifold
-10-15 horsepower increase
-Minor Modifications may be required
-Utilizes factory sensor positions and auxiliaries
***Note: Does not include gasket***
Fits only B-series Engines (B18C or P72 Head) ***Note: Does not fit B18B, B18A, B16 or Type-R head**

Anyone have any thoughts?
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Old 20-07-2011, 05:43 AM   #23
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if i had to do it all over again i would go itb's. but if youre looking to make it work, then that one above should work. how much does it cost? if its anywhere near 130$ id just go with a skunk or aebs (which is what im running).
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Old 20-07-2011, 12:37 PM   #24
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Looking at the orientation, that chamber at the end of the runners dips DOWN and straight into the bulkhead area??
Would need modifying to maybe weld in bends in the runners.

Plus, be interesting to understand what they mean by 'Minor modifications may be required'?
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Old 20-07-2011, 04:50 PM   #25
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^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

Yep the box is pointing down, no good here unless your gonna cut the straight section of the runners and well errrrm spin it around

I'm not even sure its got enough of an angle but if its cheap enough.....

I don't get this bit though?

Fits only B-series Engines (B18C or P72 Head) ***Note: Does not fit B18B, B18A, B16 or Type-R head**

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Old 20-07-2011, 04:55 PM   #26
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the c4 and c1 share the same head casting (p72). the b16 and itr have the same head casting. itr is just mildly ported.
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Old 03-08-2011, 10:45 PM   #27
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Haha, wow. I didnt even notice that it puts the box downward. Definatly out of the question. Its not really cheap @ 115$ + shipping. I would love a VictorX but the series 2 skunk will be just fine.

So just a tiny update:
went out and tore the dash out of the Acura as I will be modifying the gauges to fit in the mini for now until I can decide on something I want to buy. (never seemed to realize how spendy gauges can get... ) I have been working pretty much every waking moment of the past 3 weeks and tomorrow is the first day I will have an evening off so I'm going to get the Harness and ECM ready to come out. I should have the funds to buy my frame very quickly also! Horay

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Old 04-08-2011, 08:50 AM   #28
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I would love a VictorX but the series 2 skunk will be just fine.
Have a look at the Blox manifolds like this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BLOX-...Q5fCarQ5fParts

Just like the skunk2 and quite a bit cheaper...

I bought one from the USA and imported it... still worked out cheaper than prices for the skunk2 over here...
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Old 07-08-2011, 05:30 PM   #29
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Yeah, I will definatly go with a BLOX. Its what I've had my eye on from the very start. Quick question: How are we cutting the intake manifold? Bandsaw? any better method than this?
Thanks
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Old 07-08-2011, 09:27 PM   #30
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no need to cut it if youre cutting bulkhead. unless youre not tryin to cut the bulkhead. then use a hack saw. thats what i used on the wifes edlebrock. (d16)
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