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Old 15-03-2019, 09:51 AM   #256
Oz
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
Posts: 4,466
Subframe: Watson
CC: 1595
Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by geachy87 View Post
What’s the plans for the pedals? I’ve got another steering rack coming that I’m going to try and fit in somehow, the metro one I took out seems to have vanished into thin air
I'm still undecided.

I'm not keen on modifying the pedals. The clutch shouldn't be a problem as several Honda guys use clutch stops to limit their pedal travel depending on which MC they use so a lot will depend on how the travel and bite point on the Clutchmasters internal slave I have works out. You'd hope the brake pedal should never have to go to the floor but if a circuit fails you'd really need as much travel as possible.

My backstop option is to slightly mod the back of the subframe crossmember and the infill piece to be welded in to the bulkhead so that there is effectively a box the pedals can travel fully in to.

Call it a work in progress at the moment.

From your perspective you might not have as much of an issue. My goal was to get the frame as fall back as practically possible in my shell without replacing the whole bulkhead (a-la-Ringmini) but your goal is seeking clearance between your rack and your gearbox so you probably won't need to go back anywhere near as far as I have gone so you would probably need a much shallower bulkhead mod which might not impact on your pedals. I suspect you can get away without the extra mods to the inner wing to bulkhead join for the side plates and upper arm pivot nut and floor for the passenger side rack clearance issue I had.

If the upper arm pivot nut is an issue you may find it easier to do what I did first which was to cut the nut in half (or just use the right size half-nut - I couldn't source any locally so I just cut the nut instead) and cut down the end of the pivot shaft to just proud of the nut with a spring washer behind. I initially did this for the Custom-Minis frame so I didn't have to put a box in the inner wing join but now I have the chance to get the frame back a little bit further I have to do this anyway !

Also just bear in mind the further back you go the further the front wheels move back in the arch so if you've already fitted your wheel arche extensions then you might have to adjust their position as well.
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Old Yesterday, 10:41 AM   #257
Oz
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I managed to lower the engine in the Watsons frame by redrilling the engine side mount bracket and cut and rewelded the gearbox side bracket 20mm lower







I also trial fitted some parts I have picked up



The Hayward and Scott manifold gives decent room for the grill and front panel



but I have some issues with it:





When I pulled it apart it came apart with a bit of a twang and now the pipes don't line up. I emailed H&S and they tell me its a design feature to stop the downpipes slipping out of the manifold (personally that's what I thought the clamps did !) and I have to squeeze the downpipes together to get them to line up but there is no way it'll squeeze together on the bench, let alone on the car. I PMed Kam and he says his H&S manifold will come apart and go back together by hand with the exhaust fitted to it on the car so I think mine does have an issue and I'm not sure I buy the explanation from H&S.

Last edited by Oz; Yesterday at 09:08 PM.
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Old Today, 11:16 AM   #258
Oz
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Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
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ECU: DTA
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Further to my post above I have done some searching and found a build by a member called flipflop who built an Allspeed vtec with and H&S Manifold and found a few pics:-

https://www.16vminiclub.com/showthread.php?t=24939











To be his manifold looks straight whereas mine is definitely kinked

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Old Today, 11:20 AM   #259
Oz
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Jersey, Channel Islands
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Subframe: Watson
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Make: Honda
ECU: DTA
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Sorry, I was supposed to have posted the before and after shots of the lowered engine, but just realised I didn't, so:-

Before:-



After



I've dropped the engine 20mm in the Watsons frame which is about as far as it will go without modifying the lower rail to clear the gearbox
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