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Old 29-11-2018, 08:51 AM   #181
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You can see in this pic posted on the previous page, it was taken when we had literally just "fitted" the front panel and cut the lower valance for the front bar.



After this picture we then took the front panel off and put the rad in and started seeing where things needed cutting, at that point we realised the rad mounts I'd fitted a few weeks earlier were useless as the rad would be stuck out as far as the bumper. since then I have been working on repositioning the rad in the engine bay so that it will fit behind the grill with the front panel as it is fitted in the above pic and working out where the front panel and the grill will need chopping.

Once the exhaust manifold is here I can then offer up the front panel to see what needs chopping for that and start working out the best way for us to remake the front bar.

It may seem a bit ar$e-about-face to be doing it this way but, as I've found out, I'd be gutted if we'd just repositioned the front bar to then find the rad sat too high and the bonnet would no longer close. At least now I know as part of the new design for the front bar it has to be made in such a way to allow the rad to sit about 10mm lower than it does at the moment.
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New subframe fitting has begun - slowly

Build Thread - Standard Round Nose B series AWD build using MGF subframes has begun

Last edited by Oz; 29-11-2018 at 03:12 PM.
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Old 29-11-2018, 10:09 AM   #182
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Just to add to everything, my angle grinder packed up last weekend as well
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Old 29-11-2018, 10:21 AM   #183
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Quote:
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Just to add to everything, my angle grinder packed up last weekend as well


It wasn’t one that MattG was giving away was it!?


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couldnt be bothered to stretch that far to pull it out.
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Haz obviously don't like custard , my Mrs spits it out to!
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Old 29-11-2018, 01:20 PM   #184
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lol no, TBH this one was probably about 25 years old. The bearing failed on it and chewed up something internally so it wont lock to be able to undo the collar to swap discs
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Old 29-11-2018, 02:15 PM   #185
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GOOD NEWS !! I've had an email to say the H&S manifold will be on its way to me this afternoon

BAD NEWS !! It won't be here by the weekend
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Old 04-12-2018, 02:27 PM   #186
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Oops !! I went to a local tool store to pick up a 1-13/16th socket to do my balljoints - see here - and I appear to have also picked up a "runner or spares" CR-V .....
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Old 04-12-2018, 04:53 PM   #187
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Yes Oz !!!
AWD here we come ...
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Old 05-12-2018, 01:55 AM   #188
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Yes Oz !!!
AWD here we come ...
Yes you have time Oz ,
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Old 05-12-2018, 09:02 AM   #189
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It's funny how these things pan out. I've occasionally been looking on a local FB page of cars for sale. I'd seen a few clunker CR-Vs but they've been automatics.

I saw one over the weekend on there so messaged the seller and he said it was a manual. He told me where the car was being stored and it was just around the corner from the tool store was going to to get the 1-13/16th socket from so I stopped in afterwards, met him, looked over it, tested it quickly and agreed a price. I pick it up at lunchtime today.

What with the issues with the front bar of the front frame needing cutting and rewelding I've kinda got a "what the hell, let's go for it" approach now (how long that lasts however ....). I think if it had all fitted right and easily first off then I'd probably have opted just to get the car finished and left it FWD
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Old 05-12-2018, 02:26 PM   #190
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It's here !!
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Old 05-12-2018, 03:24 PM   #191
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Keep it up, Oz! Looking forward to see how you will sort it out!
What plans do you have about the gearing?
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Old 05-12-2018, 04:58 PM   #192
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Thanks.

Re gearing, I'm speaking to AWD to see if he can help.

On the subject of gearing, in hindsight I jumped the gun a little when I bought a brand new 3.4 M-Factory FD, that's no good now !!!

I also hope the Clutchmasters hydraulic slave will fit the CRV box as well ....
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Old 10-12-2018, 09:11 AM   #193
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I now have a 2wd CRV, the propshaft and rear diff & most of the rear shafts are on my garage floor (I used an angle grinder on them to speed up removal a little)

Hopefully I will get the engine & box and the other bits I need out over the Christmas holidays so I can dump the rest of the CRV and reclaim my garage floor space, Things are a bit tight in there at the moment !

I noticed it was a B20Z which is the high(er) compression B20 and is supposed to make a better B20 Frank motor
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Old 10-12-2018, 11:21 AM   #194
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oz View Post
I now have a 2wd CRV, the propshaft and rear diff & most of the rear shafts are on my garage floor (I used an angle grinder on them to speed up removal a little)

Hopefully I will get the engine & box and the other bits I need out over the Christmas holidays so I can dump the rest of the CRV and reclaim my garage floor space, Things are a bit tight in there at the moment !

I noticed it was a B20Z which is the high(er) compression B20 and is supposed to make a better B20 Frank motor
there you go.. another AWD in the making. nice to see you are speeding things up. cant wait to see what you are going to do with it. keep it up
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Old 10-12-2018, 03:08 PM   #195
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there you go.. another AWD in the making. nice to see you are speeding things up. cant wait to see what you are going to do with it. keep it up
My blueprint for the build is largely the RingMini AWD rally car. I plan to modify the Custom-Minis frame to get the engine sitting level (at the moment it is tipped forward so the output flange for the propshaft on the transfer case would be angled upwards, this needs to point straight back) then modify the MGF rear frame I have in my garage to the RingMini design at the rear for the rear drive. Only difference is that I will see if I can get a small adjustable coilover on the rear rather than the inboard spring and damper set up. I've bought some MGTF rear top arms which use the TF coilovers and plan to put a suitable turret in the rear wheel arch to bolt the top of the coilover unit to.

Not quite sure at the moment how I'm going to widen the transmission tunnel for the exhaust yet but probably will do it a similar way as the RingMini one. A lot will depend on where the output flange sits once I've levelled the engine.

Exhaust will run down tunnel and then up and over LH rear drive shaft and a silencer will be mounted transversely across the car behind the back of the rear frame.

That's about as far advanced the plan is at the moment !!
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