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Old 25-11-2009, 12:18 AM   #1
norcalmini
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Default Lsd

So i have the mtb2 kit with the b16a from minitec. When it was installed they moved the phantom lsd and put in a type R LSD. Well I have some serious pu;;ing issues and when i called them they had told me that having that type R LSD in there is an issue becasue it is abrupt.

My question is simply this

What lsds are you guys running with your vtec, if any? And of the ones that are using an LSD which one is it? And has anyone used the type R and if they have did they experiance the same thing? Thanks

scott
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Old 25-11-2009, 12:22 AM   #2
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what issues are you having? need to be more descriptive. LSD's even tame ones like the standard ITR item can be a bit un-nerving at first if your used to open differential modern fwd cars.
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Old 25-11-2009, 12:31 AM   #3
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well im a bigger guy and i have had it corner balenced and well it didnt do much. I have a hard time keepin the car straight. I definitly need to put some more caster in the front, right now its around 3 degress. Ive noticed that when i take a passenger the car doesnt pull as bad. But this was info from minitec about the type R LSD. It has 7x13s. Also heard about the scrub radius on the negative offset rims. The bottom line is it is pretty difficult to handle and at this time dont feel to safe on the track. So i want to try and resolve this issue. It has 250# coils in the front and kad in the rear. With me in it the car is around 1900 lbs
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Old 25-11-2009, 07:47 AM   #4
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That the car in your Avatar? Bring in the offset on those wheels as a starting point and see how that improves things. Dumb question but, were you sat in the car or did they replicate your weight when they balanced it?

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Old 25-11-2009, 11:18 AM   #5
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If its any help I have the standard honda LSD (not sure if there is adifference between that and the ITR one but I have no pulling issues car tracks straight with full throttle through the gears from standstill BUT I'm running the Watsons (metro based) frame so I guess that is helping

As Gary says, try some narrower wheels - RedRiley has teh Mintec D frame and running 6x13 superlights. I dont think there is a huge difference in torque between the D16 and and the B16, perhaps a quick PM to him about his experience ?!? (I dont think hes running an LSD tho but his experience might assist ?)
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Old 25-11-2009, 12:54 PM   #6
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My Integra Type R conversion (with the R LSD) was absolutly frightening when i first started to drive the car - most of the problem was cured by corner weighting, castor.

The rest is down to the state of the roads in my opinion. Give me a nice flat road with no bumps or holes and the car runs as straight as an arrow - lose a bit of traction on a bump or rut and the LSD does what it is designed to do. It sends the drive to the unnaffected wheel and throws you offline a bit. I got used to it and quite enjoy it

Takes me back to my motorcycling days --- allways keeping an eye out for gravel, holes, damp, bumps and drain covers etc: It sure makes you an observant driver

Your fat wheels will not help at all though -
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Old 25-11-2009, 04:30 PM   #7
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Yes thats the car in my avatar. I have been thinkin of going to 6x13s to see where that leads me. Yes i was in the car when they corner weighted it. Now when the balenced the car out we didnt use any weights it was all done with suspension, and there wasnt a lot to have to do to it to get it balenced. The front end was not equal but the corner weight was 50%. I took it back to them later and said that we ned to make the front end equal in weight with my in it. Did that but once again not with weights it was done with the suspension which through the think WAY off.. Does anybody need some 7x13 minilites with ao48s?

Last thing how much suspension does everybody have. Meaning if i press down in the car it doesnt really move and the one time i was at the track the car felt like it was skipping around the corner. Obviosly a sign of the suspension being to stiff, but am just curious becasue it feels as if there isnt alot of movement in the suspension. Kad rears and minitec 250# fronts. I might just need to pony up for some new coil overs
Any thoughts

thanks
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Old 25-11-2009, 04:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by norcalmini View Post
The front end was not equal but the corner weight was 50%.
Not sure what you mean but you need to use the coil-over height adjusters to get as best you can equal weight across each axle - plus make sure your caster is equal both sides and camber is pretty much the same

Quote:
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Does anybody need some 7x13 minilites with ao48s?
Nothing to stop you reusing the tyres
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Old 25-11-2009, 06:44 PM   #9
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true over looked that this morning it was early but im not sure if i like those tyres. Ive had them on a different car and i think i might want to try switching them up. Plus to have them taken off then re mounted and balenced id much rather just sell them straight up.

With the axels the weight is not even. When i was in the car the right side needed a significant amount of weight so he had stiffend up the left rear and stiffened up the right front getting the weights the same. When i drove it after that it was all over the place like really bad.
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Old 25-11-2009, 06:52 PM   #10
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corner weighting like that is only really any use for fine tuning, what you need to do is get the natural weight of the car as clost to even across the axles as possible, then use the ajustable suspenion to trim it. unfortunalty this basically meens mooving heavy things around. and will always be a compromise
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Old 25-11-2009, 07:06 PM   #11
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yea when no one is in the car it is dam near equal. The prob is when i get in im 26o it throws it off pretty bad. There is really nothing to move around. I think i might to phyiscally put some weights in
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Old 25-11-2009, 07:32 PM   #12
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can you not put the battery on the other side to you?
thats what i done on my car
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Old 25-11-2009, 07:33 PM   #13
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it is, but the battery is a whopping 5 pounds
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Old 25-11-2009, 10:09 PM   #14
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Alot may disagree but metro hubs have a degree or so extra king pin angle and this improves scrub angles on deep dish wheels and tyres making the steering less snatchy but they will need to be set up with adjustable bottom arms tie rods and mini steering arms
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Old 25-11-2009, 10:43 PM   #15
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Quote:
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Alot may disagree but metro hubs have a degree or so extra king pin angle and this improves scrub angles on deep dish wheels and tyres making the steering less snatchy but they will need to be set up with adjustable bottom arms tie rods and mini steering arms
been saying that for yonks loved the early metro setup i had .. however you best keep the metro steering arms if you want to have more controll of torque steer k-series metro hubs look even better, but require lots of work to fit to a mini based frame and wheels.
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