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#31 |
Senior Member
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Have you tried the water pump pulley, or had any luck getting smaller ones made? because if you had to cut the water pump then the pulley has no chance!!
![]() Looks good though ![]() Ed |
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#32 |
Senior Member
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Still gonna go with a smaller pulley...my dads made a few for his homemade cnc machine, so he should be able to make some for this.
If they turn out alright, he will be able to make a few for other people. My main concern is the manifold!! gonna have to go for throttle bodies now as I really dont want to modify bulkhead. What throttle bodies are people using? and are you using the suzuki injectors? cheers Pete |
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#33 |
Senior Member
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On my brothers we used throttle bodies from a GSXR750, and as the stock injectors mount in the head you can keep them there along with the stock fuel rail etc.
Then block the injector holes in the throttle bodies and you only have to worry about air flow through them. Will have to change the ecu though unless your going to put a plenum on the TB and the maf and filter on the end?? Ed. |
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#34 |
Senior Member
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We are half way through building a Megasquirt V3 .. so that should solve most of the problems.. will leave the manifold until the engine is actually sitting in the engine bay...
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#35 |
Senior Member
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Yeah MS will make it alot easier and neater.
Both me and my brother are running MS, both slightly differently though. |
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#36 |
Junior Member
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looks very nice!! cant wait to see more of it!
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#37 |
Senior Member
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Cheers....still a long way to go tho. Still needs alot of tidying up and strengthening.
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#38 |
Senior Member
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Frame pretty much finished now!! Just need to weld the frame up properly, make bottom arm mounts and shape engine mounts.
![]() ![]() right engine mount not attached ![]() Did any1 else have problems with the clearance between the frame and the wheels on full lock? Might have to put spacers or limit steering rack. Things to do... Finish building megasquirt. Get some throttle bodies and make manifold Put pump in tank Put together engine..new clutch etc Make brake parts..move servo etc Make clutch hydrolic EDIS, Trigger wheel, sensors etc electrics make water pipes...mount radiator Make exhaust plus lots lots more. |
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#39 |
Senior Member
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I thought we where going to have clearance problems until we actually connected the rack and turned the wheel. To me looks like you'll be fine, although it may be dependent on which wheels your going to use.
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#40 |
Senior Member
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We never had any problems with the frame when the wheels were on full lock either.
It looks like your making good progress ![]() |
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#41 |
Senior Member
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I dont think it will be much of a problem looking at it again.
Subframe done now...apart from making it look pretty and getting it powder coated. ![]() Not to disimilar to yours smurphy...must be doing something right ![]() Havin a bit of trouble with the mk2/3 gearbox on the mk1 engine!!! Doesnt seems to fit with the new clutch. Looks like the flywheel is gonna have to have 4-5m machined off it. On the plus side...it makes it lighter ![]() Cant really find any info on putting a later gearbox on the gti engine!! Any1 have any info? cheers Pete |
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#42 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Durham
Posts: 1,925
Subframe: Home Made
CC: 1298
Make: Suzuki
ECU: Non good old skool!
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Hi,
I thought any mk will fit gearbox and engine. I know you can't fit mk1 engine into mk2 onwards due to engine mounts are different. I think everything else are inter-changeable. I will look for some info for you or you can check in Teamswift. They can tell you straight away. Cheers Atchi |
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#43 |
Senior Member
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well people have put mk2 engine on a mk1 box (AllanMcD), so should work other way round, might just been something like the clutch plate is off stopping the spigot engaging the bearing.
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#44 |
Senior Member
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It all fits together except
a) the clutch diaphragm cover fouls the inside of the gearbox bellhousing (by about 3mm) b) the clutch release bearing should have clearance but is pushing on the spring by about 4mm c) the pressure on the plate doesn't seem great enough. I think we can fix it by machining the surface of the flywheel We are lacking one measurement which doesn't show in the manuals.. It is the clutch spring pre-load distance.. eg how much gap between the clutch cover and the flywheel before the cover is torqued up. currently it is only about 2 millimetres, but i'm sure it should be more. The plan would be to take about 5 or 6 mm off the flywheel where the cover bolts on but we don't know if we should take some off the friction surface to get that pre-load right |
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#45 |
Senior Member
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Ive got a Mk2 flywheel/clutch setup in the garage ill measure tomorrow if you want.
Are you using the MK1 flywheel or the mk2? ![]() |
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