Eaton supercharged G13b engined roundnose mini - Page 3

ed4ran · 24-06-2007, 07:00 PM

Have you tried the water pump pulley, or had any luck getting smaller ones made? because if you had to cut the water pump then the pulley has no chance!!

Looks good though

Ed

Pete_H · 24-06-2007, 07:08 PM

Still gonna go with a smaller pulley...my dads made a few for his homemade cnc machine, so he should be able to make some for this.

If they turn out alright, he will be able to make a few for other people.

My main concern is the manifold!! gonna have to go for throttle bodies now as I really dont want to modify bulkhead.

What throttle bodies are people using? and are you using the suzuki injectors?

cheers Pete

ed4ran · 24-06-2007, 08:14 PM

On my brothers we used throttle bodies from a GSXR750, and as the stock injectors mount in the head you can keep them there along with the stock fuel rail etc.
Then block the injector holes in the throttle bodies and you only have to worry about air flow through them. Will have to change the ecu though unless your going to put a plenum on the TB and the maf and filter on the end??

Ed.

Pete_H · 24-06-2007, 08:22 PM

We are half way through building a Megasquirt V3 .. so that should solve most of the problems.. will leave the manifold until the engine is actually sitting in the engine bay...

ed4ran · 24-06-2007, 09:40 PM

Yeah MS will make it alot easier and neater.
Both me and my brother are running MS, both slightly differently though.

crazykamper · 28-06-2007, 12:11 AM

looks very nice!! cant wait to see more of it!

Pete_H · 28-06-2007, 09:16 AM

Cheers....still a long way to go tho. Still needs alot of tidying up and strengthening.

Pete_H · 08-07-2007, 07:59 PM

Frame pretty much finished now!! Just need to weld the frame up properly, make bottom arm mounts and shape engine mounts.

right engine mount not attached

Did any1 else have problems with the clearance between the frame and the wheels on full lock? Might have to put spacers or limit steering rack.

Things to do...

Finish building megasquirt.
Get some throttle bodies and make manifold
Put pump in tank
Put together engine..new clutch etc
Make brake parts..move servo etc
Make clutch hydrolic
EDIS, Trigger wheel, sensors etc
electrics
make water pipes...mount radiator
Make exhaust

plus lots lots more.

ed4ran · 08-07-2007, 08:05 PM

I thought we where going to have clearance problems until we actually connected the rack and turned the wheel. To me looks like you'll be fine, although it may be dependent on which wheels your going to use.

Smurfy · 09-07-2007, 07:32 PM

We never had any problems with the frame when the wheels were on full lock either.

It looks like your making good progress

Pete_H · 15-07-2007, 04:31 PM

I dont think it will be much of a problem looking at it again.

Subframe done now...apart from making it look pretty and getting it powder coated.

Not to disimilar to yours smurphy...must be doing something right

Havin a bit of trouble with the mk2/3 gearbox on the mk1 engine!!! Doesnt seems to fit with the new clutch. Looks like the flywheel is gonna have to have 4-5m machined off it. On the plus side...it makes it lighter

Cant really find any info on putting a later gearbox on the gti engine!! Any1 have any info?

cheers Pete

miniswift · 15-07-2007, 06:58 PM

Hi,

I thought any mk will fit gearbox and engine.
I know you can't fit mk1 engine into mk2 onwards due to engine mounts are different.
I think everything else are inter-changeable.
I will look for some info for you or you can check in Teamswift.

They can tell you straight away.

Cheers
Atchi

ed4ran · 15-07-2007, 09:06 PM

well people have put mk2 engine on a mk1 box (AllanMcD), so should work other way round, might just been something like the clutch plate is off stopping the spigot engaging the bearing.

Pete_H · 15-07-2007, 09:38 PM

It all fits together except

a) the clutch diaphragm cover fouls the inside of the gearbox bellhousing (by about 3mm)
b) the clutch release bearing should have clearance but is pushing on the spring by about 4mm
c) the pressure on the plate doesn't seem great enough.

I think we can fix it by machining the surface of the flywheel

We are lacking one measurement which doesn't show in the manuals..

It is the clutch spring pre-load distance..
eg how much gap between the clutch cover and the flywheel before the cover is torqued up.

currently it is only about 2 millimetres, but i'm sure it should be more.

The plan would be to take about 5 or 6 mm off the flywheel where the cover bolts on but we don't know if we should take some off the friction surface to get that pre-load right

ed4ran · 15-07-2007, 10:24 PM

Ive got a Mk2 flywheel/clutch setup in the garage ill measure tomorrow if you want.

Are you using the MK1 flywheel or the mk2?

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24-06-2007, 07:00 PM	#31
ed4ran Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Stoke Posts: 1,408 Subframe: Home Made	Have you tried the water pump pulley, or had any luck getting smaller ones made? because if you had to cut the water pump then the pulley has no chance!! Looks good though Ed

24-06-2007, 07:08 PM	#32
Pete_H Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Worcester Posts: 698 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1333 Make: Suzuki ECU: megasquirt	Still gonna go with a smaller pulley...my dads made a few for his homemade cnc machine, so he should be able to make some for this. If they turn out alright, he will be able to make a few for other people. My main concern is the manifold!! gonna have to go for throttle bodies now as I really dont want to modify bulkhead. What throttle bodies are people using? and are you using the suzuki injectors? cheers Pete

24-06-2007, 08:14 PM	#33
ed4ran Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Stoke Posts: 1,408 Subframe: Home Made	On my brothers we used throttle bodies from a GSXR750, and as the stock injectors mount in the head you can keep them there along with the stock fuel rail etc. Then block the injector holes in the throttle bodies and you only have to worry about air flow through them. Will have to change the ecu though unless your going to put a plenum on the TB and the maf and filter on the end?? Ed.

24-06-2007, 08:22 PM	#34
Pete_H Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Worcester Posts: 698 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1333 Make: Suzuki ECU: megasquirt	We are half way through building a Megasquirt V3 .. so that should solve most of the problems.. will leave the manifold until the engine is actually sitting in the engine bay...

24-06-2007, 09:40 PM	#35
ed4ran Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Stoke Posts: 1,408 Subframe: Home Made	Yeah MS will make it alot easier and neater. Both me and my brother are running MS, both slightly differently though.

28-06-2007, 12:11 AM	#36
crazykamper Junior Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Santa Barbara Posts: 6	looks very nice!! cant wait to see more of it!

28-06-2007, 09:16 AM	#37
Pete_H Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Worcester Posts: 698 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1333 Make: Suzuki ECU: megasquirt	Cheers....still a long way to go tho. Still needs alot of tidying up and strengthening.

08-07-2007, 07:59 PM	#38
Pete_H Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Worcester Posts: 698 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1333 Make: Suzuki ECU: megasquirt	Frame pretty much finished now!! Just need to weld the frame up properly, make bottom arm mounts and shape engine mounts. right engine mount not attached Did any1 else have problems with the clearance between the frame and the wheels on full lock? Might have to put spacers or limit steering rack. Things to do... Finish building megasquirt. Get some throttle bodies and make manifold Put pump in tank Put together engine..new clutch etc Make brake parts..move servo etc Make clutch hydrolic EDIS, Trigger wheel, sensors etc electrics make water pipes...mount radiator Make exhaust plus lots lots more.

08-07-2007, 08:05 PM	#39
ed4ran Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Stoke Posts: 1,408 Subframe: Home Made	I thought we where going to have clearance problems until we actually connected the rack and turned the wheel. To me looks like you'll be fine, although it may be dependent on which wheels your going to use.

09-07-2007, 07:32 PM	#40
Smurfy Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2004 Location: Derby Posts: 532 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1298 Make: Suzuki ECU: Standard	We never had any problems with the frame when the wheels were on full lock either. It looks like your making good progress

15-07-2007, 04:31 PM	#41
Pete_H Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Worcester Posts: 698 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1333 Make: Suzuki ECU: megasquirt	I dont think it will be much of a problem looking at it again. Subframe done now...apart from making it look pretty and getting it powder coated. Not to disimilar to yours smurphy...must be doing something right Havin a bit of trouble with the mk2/3 gearbox on the mk1 engine!!! Doesnt seems to fit with the new clutch. Looks like the flywheel is gonna have to have 4-5m machined off it. On the plus side...it makes it lighter Cant really find any info on putting a later gearbox on the gti engine!! Any1 have any info? cheers Pete

15-07-2007, 06:58 PM	#42
miniswift Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Durham Posts: 1,925 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1298 Make: Suzuki ECU: Non good old skool!	Hi, I thought any mk will fit gearbox and engine. I know you can't fit mk1 engine into mk2 onwards due to engine mounts are different. I think everything else are inter-changeable. I will look for some info for you or you can check in Teamswift. They can tell you straight away. Cheers Atchi

15-07-2007, 09:06 PM	#43
ed4ran Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Stoke Posts: 1,408 Subframe: Home Made	well people have put mk2 engine on a mk1 box (AllanMcD), so should work other way round, might just been something like the clutch plate is off stopping the spigot engaging the bearing.

15-07-2007, 09:38 PM	#44
Pete_H Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Worcester Posts: 698 Subframe: Home Made CC: 1333 Make: Suzuki ECU: megasquirt	It all fits together except a) the clutch diaphragm cover fouls the inside of the gearbox bellhousing (by about 3mm) b) the clutch release bearing should have clearance but is pushing on the spring by about 4mm c) the pressure on the plate doesn't seem great enough. I think we can fix it by machining the surface of the flywheel We are lacking one measurement which doesn't show in the manuals.. It is the clutch spring pre-load distance.. eg how much gap between the clutch cover and the flywheel before the cover is torqued up. currently it is only about 2 millimetres, but i'm sure it should be more. The plan would be to take about 5 or 6 mm off the flywheel where the cover bolts on but we don't know if we should take some off the friction surface to get that pre-load right

15-07-2007, 10:24 PM	#45
ed4ran Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Stoke Posts: 1,408 Subframe: Home Made	Ive got a Mk2 flywheel/clutch setup in the garage ill measure tomorrow if you want. Are you using the MK1 flywheel or the mk2?