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Old 18-04-2012, 12:17 PM   #16
Station Wagon
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If they told you it feels like something is loose, it could be as ridiculous as a worn tie bar joint(end). I already had a problem with the car pulling hard while accelarating and coming back to normal when i let off throttle. It was not noticable until i lifted the car and inspected that particular joint(alignment kit rod end from Minitec). Also, on some frames, those parts never look like they are worn out until you've disassembly the ball joints cause there is always load on them even if the car is lifted. I would inspect each part of the suspension INDIVIDUALLY before playing back with adjustment.
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Old 18-04-2012, 12:37 PM   #17
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Hello,
I did alignments for a living for a couple of years. You need to take a systematic approch to solving this. First, You need to determine if the front end is moving like Station Wagon said. Once you have eliminated that issue, you can start on wheels. If you are running a lot of negative offset, you will have a lot of scrub radius. With a lot of scrub, your wheels act like rudders which will magnify torque steer, ackerman effects, caster effects.... If you are running deep dish wheels, you are headed in the wrong direction. On alignment, extra caster will help resist torque steer (but it technically does nothing to solve it). Torque steer in a FWD car is part of life. If you have too much toe-out in the front, your car will wander around on the road. A lot of negative camber will cause your car to follow the grade of the road. So, you want to limit negative cambe (unless you are racing). I hope this helps ; )
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Old 18-04-2012, 08:42 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by Mini fab View Post
I remove my adjustable lower Arm, rear camber, Gaz coil over, front stabiliser, put the stock rear dounuts at the front and the old ones at the rear, Believe me my Mini never ride this good! I only retain the front adjustable tie bar.
thats because you have no hp. our d16z6 auto estate is exactly the same. the front doesent lift because there is no power to lift the front. well, that and the 6" of additional wheel base.
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Old 19-04-2012, 06:30 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by wilp99 View Post
thats because you have no hp. our d16z6 auto estate is exactly the same. the front doesent lift because there is no power to lift the front. well, that and the 6" of additional wheel base.
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Old 19-04-2012, 12:35 PM   #20
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didnt mean it like that. i meant theres not enough power there to magnify the problem, which basically makes it more manageable.
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Old 19-04-2012, 01:49 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by wilp99 View Post
didnt mean it like that.
ha ha, no power says the Honda boy.
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Old 19-04-2012, 02:31 PM   #22
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My point is.... That I assume that retaining a stock suspension set up will or reduce a lot wierd Mini experience... Hey it's a cheap start to do rather than spending a lot at first then be unhappy. By the way my D got about a respectable power of 145 bhp and very very drivable.
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Old 19-04-2012, 03:07 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by Mini fab View Post
My point is.... That I assume that retaining a stock suspension set up will or reduce a lot wierd Mini experience... Hey it's a cheap start to do rather than spending a lot at first then be unhappy. By the way my D got about a respectable power of 145 bhp and very very drivable.
are you saying keep it close to the standerd as possible? if so i agree totaly!! seems that we all get tempted to get stuck in withe grinders and welders .then realise we have made it worse.keeping it standerd is a grate place to start!! half the gimicks that they sell are rubish any way,steering geomatry is a hard game,and its all dunn for you to start with for free,almost,lol
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Old 19-04-2012, 03:19 PM   #24
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from the description in the first post it sounds exactly like the first drive of my car many, many yrs ago, the mot guy described it as lethal.
It turned out the specialist i had used had set the wheelbase different from one side to the other, the tracking was out and the castor was wayyyyy out as well.
Once sorted by myself it was as good as gold
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Old 19-04-2012, 04:42 PM   #25
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ok keep it close to standard. seems to be what everyone says, but no one has the fix. hmmm..
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Old 19-04-2012, 05:08 PM   #26
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minitastic springs at the back
Which ones do you have? http://www.minitastic.co.uk/home1.htm
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Old 20-04-2012, 11:21 AM   #27
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Quote:
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ok keep it close to standard. seems to be what everyone says, but no one has the fix. hmmm..
intresting subject.sure thers bin endless threds on this,this one is long and drifts,the joys of typeing.lol,is it time for a new one?? if my typeing was better i would start one myself/ i might have a go anyways,but it will be about the front /not the back.lol
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Old 20-04-2012, 12:11 PM   #28
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true. true
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Old 20-04-2012, 02:24 PM   #29
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ok keep it close to standard. seems to be what everyone says, but no one has the fix. hmmm..
I will try and get a vid (some day) of mine as I'm keeping the standard mini track and wheels, I think having the massive offset that comes with steelies will help
but we'll see......
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Old 20-04-2012, 03:46 PM   #30
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The big problem is you are trying to put enormous power and torque through what is effectively 1st gen FWD technology. Even Keith Calver admits in the latest Mini Mag that the Mini's geometry is awful.you can with careful set up you can tame it to a degree but you are always papering over the cracks. I think that the fact people are now experimenting with K series hubs on Mini suspension and getting good results speaks volumes IMHO
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