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Old 09-10-2012, 09:59 PM   #16
miniswift
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Hi,

You will find that if you keep your engine at the std angle of 15 degrees, your exhaust manifold will be further forward than your front panel.... if you are using a round front.
You also need to consider steering rack clearance.
Also, you haven't got water pump pulley... it may touch your tower!

Good work, keep it going!

Cheers
Atchi
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:57 AM   #17
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Hi Atchi, yes they are all things I need to consider thanks. Can you say how much clearance is needed between the engine and frame? I am working on the basis that if I can get at least 15/20mm all round then the movement of the engine as it runs wont be a problem.

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Old 10-10-2012, 09:32 AM   #18
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Hi,

From what I can see, you will need to move your engine forward by 30mm or so... this is for your water pump. then change angle of engine to 5 degrees from 15. This orientation will change your front space for your exhaust manifold to the front panel space.

You will have 30mm or so of the oil pan sticking out below. So you may want mod or lift your engine to accomodate. The space around your engine wise, it won't matter as much. If you fit few mounts and engine steadies, your engine won't move so it will be fine. I have 1 engine steady off cam belt side and gearbox steadies as I'm using mk1 gearbox!

Cheers
Atchi
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:11 PM   #19
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Thanks for that Atchi, my pic is just of the engine hanging off the hoist. The engines final position has not been decided or fixed yet so I will try to take all you said in to consideration. I have just received some range rover engine mounts that I understand will be good to use on this, it certainly looks like they will be easier to fit than the swift engine mounts.
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Old 10-10-2012, 06:30 PM   #20
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Fit everything on the engine what supposed to be on the engine when you build the frame, like pully's, starter etc.

I made a mistake of putting an engine steady in the space needed for the startermotor

Dennis
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Old 12-10-2012, 03:33 PM   #21
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I pretty much spent all day making the front section of my subframe....



The reason it has taken me so long is that there are a lot of things to take into account, the first being that the front panel must fit to it in exactly the same position as it would if the frame was standard. Secondly a hinge will be attached at a later date to allow the front panel (along with the rest of the front) to fold forward 90deg.



Thirdly and fourthly it must allow space behind it for both the exhaust/manifold and the oil filter(which wants space to be removed with out the need of removing the engine).



And lastly I need to bear in mind that I am an amateur welder and I dont know how much to trust my welds so I must give a fair amount of thought to what I am doing. And of coarse wherever I cut steel away I tried to strengthen it again by welding in reinforcing/replacement bits of steel. Oh and this is all while keeping the relative position of the tie bar mounts the same! All in all progress was slow but in the end I am fairly happy that it will be tough enough, its certainly heavy now.
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Old 15-10-2012, 03:25 PM   #22
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I am still awaiting the arrival of the bits of steal I plan to rebuild the sides of my subframe with. In the mean time I have been adjusting and fine tuning the bits I already have. With the subframe lined up in the right place (or as close as I can get it at least) I noticed a few places that touched or were to close so a few tweaks were needed.



this was trimmed and rewelded to give more space like this...



As had been pointed out and become apparent the water pumps pulley was going to hit the tower so I have remodeled the tower a little to give the pulley space (I will be using coil springs and so there should be no problem with clearance now.).



It occurred to me to put the top arm in and check that...



To my reckoning the top arm pin came a little to close to the engine! So I gained what few mm's of space I could by trimming off all the spare length from the pin by changing to a thinner spring washer and having only the minimum thread to reach all the nut. It didn't buy me much space but I am sure I gained at least 2.5mm. I guess engine steady's will be a good idea to cut down on the engines movement.

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Old 15-10-2012, 04:38 PM   #23
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i would not think twice about cutting that nut in half,, even more if you need,
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Old 15-10-2012, 05:41 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ardonfast View Post
i would not think twice about cutting that nut in half,, even more if you need,

You misunderstand, I am still using the full nut! I am using a thinner spring washer, doing it all up tight with the locking plate and all, then removed all the threaded section that's proud of the nut.

oh right lol I "misunderstand", I misread you.

You are suggesting that I could make the nut smaller to gain some more space!

Thanks I just might do that.

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Old 15-10-2012, 05:50 PM   #25
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sorry mate, ive got a bad habitt of knowing what im saying and then type it without discribeing it in deatale,
i asumed you had a problem with the big nut getting in the way,[possably]
if the nut is going to get in the way again, i would and have cut them in half and the thred, i hope i didnt get it wrong again
but everchance i did
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Old 15-10-2012, 06:20 PM   #26
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Thanks I understand you now, it was my bad I didn't read it right.
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Old 15-10-2012, 06:34 PM   #27
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that makes a change, its me normaly,lol,
that nut dose basicly not a lot,
overengineerd by b,m,c coz ther was plenty of room and thoes good old boys knew what was needed,
just realised your in taunton ,im just over the border ,dunkesswell.
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Old 15-10-2012, 09:39 PM   #28
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Yes indeed, I am a bit outside Taunton in Cotford st Luke (Tone Vale).
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Old 16-10-2012, 12:20 PM   #29
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ok so your lucky enuff to have henry poltmore running palmtree motors, near you??
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Old 16-10-2012, 01:47 PM   #30
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Yes I know the place, I am not familiar with Henry Poltmore though. I take it you know each other, I grew up not far from there so i'm sure we will have met at some point but my memory leaves a lot to be desired these days.
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