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Old 24-11-2009, 04:33 PM   #16
Purtsi
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I was just going to say before taking the second look of the pics that make sure that the alternator bracket is heavy-duty one as the one I used was thinner and caused loads of unwanted rattling noise at 2800rpm which was then cured by changing the bracket to 10mm one.

Nice looking subframe btw
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Old 26-11-2009, 08:01 PM   #17
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The bracket for the alternator is 8mm thick. Today I started finishing off the welding of the subframe and the enginemounts. Thing is that I am not sure the wheels will clear the subframe. I did some measuring on my other Mini, but I am still not 100% sure.

Also decided to add some extra piping on the bottom pipes, maybe I am overdoing it a bit, but I rather be safe than sorry. Especially the righthand side has a strange bend around the sump.

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Old 27-11-2009, 04:42 PM   #18
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Finished the subframe today. The only things I have to do is reinforce the part that is bolted to the floor, smoothing the welds a bit and grind a bit away around the oilfilter the get a bit more clearance. Follwing task is to start measuring on the driveshafts.

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Old 28-11-2009, 09:26 AM   #19
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thats a nice looking frame.
had it in the car yet? with engine in??
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Old 28-11-2009, 12:49 PM   #20
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Smart looking frame.

Are those Metro mountings?

Scott
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Old 28-11-2009, 04:45 PM   #21
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Did not have it in the car yet, that will be done in a few weeks, then the boss of the garage is going on holiday and I can use a bridge for two weeks . In fact I hope a bit sooner but there is still a lot the prepare and fix anyway.


No Metro stuff on this subframe, the basis is a Mini subframe.

Dennis
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Old 28-11-2009, 04:55 PM   #22
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nice.... a ramp for two weeks...

i think he ment the rear enginemount.
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Old 28-11-2009, 06:27 PM   #23
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The rear enginemount originates from a '86 Golf 1.3. I found it going through a big pile of enginemounts at the breakers yard. I used it because it is a good size and the rubber is not as soft as the original Swift ones, which is a bit to big by the way.

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Old 03-12-2009, 04:54 PM   #24
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Today reworked the subframe a bit. I made the frame without the inner potjoints and yes...I got clearance problems. That is sorted out.

Also put the suspension on to measure the lenght of the driveshafts. The shortest lenghts were 347 mm and 324 mm (suspension in the lowest position). When taking a safety margin of 10 mm that would come down on 337 mm and 314 mm.

At first I will have them sleeved, later on I will probably go for 1-piece driveshafts.

Dennis
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Old 03-12-2009, 05:14 PM   #25
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hi, just looking at your subby. is there any of the original frame left at the front such as the tie bar mounts???
an how low have you taken the lower part of the frame???
just getting ideas for when i come to build mine.
mike
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Old 03-12-2009, 05:27 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DVO View Post
At first I will have them sleeved, later on I will probably go for 1-piece driveshafts.

Dennis
I recommend going straight to the 1-piece ones. Then you don't have to worry about bending or braking them. And you'll save the money that goes to sleeving unless you're doing it yourself.
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Old 03-12-2009, 07:00 PM   #27
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@ Knoxy: I integrated the tiebar fixings of the original frame in my frame (will take some pics tomorrow for you). For the front I just made a rough estimation. The frame is now just in front of the sump of the engine. I took the idea from AlexP and makes that I can fit a turbo later on.

@ Purtsi: I know that 1-piece is better, but I do not have to required 325 euro at the moment. First I want the car running.

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Old 04-12-2009, 04:30 PM   #28
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Hereby some pictures of the tiebar mounts left and right.







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Old 04-12-2009, 04:39 PM   #29
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cheers dennis, i can see how you have done it now.

how close is the subframe bar to the tie rod??? it looks pretty close.

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Old 04-12-2009, 08:15 PM   #30
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The lefthand side is not a problem, the righthand side is close because you have to build the bottom of the subframe around the sump. The arm is now in a lower position then usually possible because there are no rebound buffers in the subframe and in fact it is now touching. With those rubbers in there is enough clearance.

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